New boat problems

Aight I will try and check spark and timing this afternoon and get back to yall. Thanks for the help. I just want to get this thing going.

Brock42 wrote: Recent update. I replaced coil, cap, rotor, and fuel water separator also drained tank and put fresh gas in. Took it to the lake yesterday and it took like 15 min to get it cranked. Finally got it started and ran the boat for 3 hours. Still won't hit wot but at cruising speed say 30 to 35 the boat runs great. I tried to start the boat this morning and it fired up no problem and the coil was measuring a full 12 volts and it started fine. Went back about a hour later and the coil was measuring 10 volts and while I was cranking it would drop to 8 and the boat would never fire up. Do I have a electrical issue or a fuel delivery problem and where to start thanks for any help.

Might be interesting to pull a spark plug, re-attach the plug wire, and while grounding the plug crank the engine and take a look at the spark, should be a bright fat spark. Hold the plug with a rag wrapped around it or insulated fuse puller to avoid getting zapped.

Did you ever check timing, both initial and total? It seems to me you have a few different problems going on at once, maybe related, maybe not.

1) took 15 minutes to start up cold after you changed out cap and rotor (but, the next morning you say it fired right up cold, so not sure on that one)
2) won't start up after sitting an hour
3) won't run at WOT

Timing can affect running at any speed, and startup. It's the easiest problem to find or eliminate with a timing light, might explain your WOT problem.

You ask about fuel delivery, but if your boat ran for 3 hours and ran perfectly at 30-35 mph for an extended time I tend to think your fuel delivery is OK and would keep working on ignition.

I'm not knowledgeable enough on electronic ignition to know if that voltage drop is keeping you from starting, but I somewhat doubt it. That's why I'd like to see you get a visual on the spark while cranking, if you've got a good hot spark you can probably ignore the coil/voltage and move on to other things.

Ohms law in action here.

When the + side of coil is hooked up to the resistor, but - side is unhooked, the - terminal is seeing full 12V because there is no current flow. (think of your faucet with the valve closed). When you hook up the distributor, then there is current flow & the resistor will drop out some voltage (V=IR).

Nothing seems wrong to me.

Wiring is hooked up correct but I don't understand the voltage drop when the purple wire from dist is hooked to coil

I could be wrong but I don't think I have the points resistor setup. It's a 98 pro boss carb.

What would be the reason for the voltage drop.

Recent update. I replaced coil, cap, rotor, and fuel water separator also drained tank and put fresh gas in. Took it to the lake yesterday and it took like 15 min to get it cranked. Finally got it started and ran the boat for 3 hours. Still won't hit wot but at cruising speed say 30 to 35 the boat runs great. I tried to start the boat this morning and it fired up no problem and the coil was measuring a full 12 volts and it started fine. Went back about a hour later and the coil was measuring 10 volts and while I was cranking it would drop to 8 and the boat would never fire up. Do I have a electrical issue or a fuel delivery problem and where to start thanks for any help.

quinner wrote: Doubt there is points as Pete mentioned

Since it was stated the ignition system was changed, we have no idea whats inside!! Also, we have exchanged many PM's and in one a set of contacts inside the distributor was mentioned!

No Protec there. Where did you even get the idea there was? New cap and rotor you should be in business. Then maybe coil and plug wires.

Brock, I'm a bit confused. You said it's a '98, I didn't think they were making the Protec in the late '90's. While you could have both a fuel and ignition problem, I'd concentrate on ignition for now. It ran fine until WOT, which Tony is right could be a fuel problem, but then the re-start problem points more toward ignition.

I think you could easily tackle the ignition with just a little bit of help from here, it's really simple. The only thing you need to get your hands on is a timing light, one that measures initial and total timing, any mechanic will have one. Whatever you decide to do let us know how it turns out!

Brock,
I suggest doing a complete ignition tune up beyond changing spark plugs. You will need distributor cap, rotor, point set and condenser. A feller gauge, timing light and dwell meter will also be needed. It's pretty simple and there are great tutorials on line.

Brock42 wrote: I pulled the dist cap off and it is what looked like a coat of corrosion

Could you be more specific? On the point contact faces?

Got it out on the lake today had a lil trouble starting off the trailer but didn't take to long fired it up it idled fine took off and it ran fine until I hit wide open throttle and it skipped and popped for a split sec it will run at wot but doesn't sound like its opening all the way up so I throttled back down till about 3/4 throttle and cruised around for about 30 min did fine at 3/4 throttle. I stopped several times and tried to restart it and it fires up immediately. Ride back to the dock and sat for about 20 min and before I loaded it up I was going to take it for another spin and I wouldn't crank sat there and spun over until the battery went dead. It has a accel coil on it. And the temp never went over 140