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New boat problems

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Brock42 View Drop Down
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    Posted: May-09-2015 at 12:45pm
I posted over in the engine repair section and figured I may get more exposure here. I picked up a new boat yesterday which is a 98 ski nautique open now with the 5.8 pro boss 351 carbed. I brought it back and went to put it in and it had a lil trouble cranking took a few minutes to get going. Got it going parked it idling while I parked the truck. Took out across the lake and it ran great for about 15 min then at wot it would start cutting off but once I slacked up on the throttle it would pick back up and continue on until I tried to hit wot again and would do the same thing well I brought it back down to idle speed and idled for a few min and when I went to take back off it died and would crabk and run for a couple sec now it won't do anything I can see gas going in the top of carb and I am getting a real faint spark when I checked the plugs for Fire. I'm not a boat mechanic and am looking for any advice and info you guys have to offer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2015 at 3:01pm
Is this boat "new" to you or is this a "new problem"? What is the history of the machine? Has it had a tune up since 1998? It sounds like you have enough know-how to figure out that you have a weak spark problem. If so, the spark-generation system is not rocket science: Plugs, wire, distributor would be a place to start, and you may want to look at the coil. Pull the cap off, see what you find and report back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DayTony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2015 at 3:32pm
cutting off only at WOT sounds like a fuel issue to me. I would first change filter, and check that the vent is not blocked.
your fuel pump may be too weak to keep the bowls fed when the secondaries are dumping.
thats where i would start.
and a good look unde rthe dist cap and at the plugs will also clue you in on whats going on.
not a bad idea to change that stuff and do an all around tune up if it hasnt been done in a while
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2015 at 5:47pm
I put new spark plugs in and got it running and after talking to rob a member on this site. We've came to the conclusion it already has the protec removed ran it in the hose for about 20-30 min and ran fine the temp never got over 130.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2015 at 7:01pm
Brock,
Get it out on the lake. The driveway run and only getting it to 130 may not be a good test since the heat may be causing the issue. Since it's a Protech conversion, I wonder what coil was used. If the correct one wasn't used, it may not like the heat or may be getting to hot due to improper wiring (ballast resistor related). Get us some more information.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2015 at 9:13pm
Got it out on the lake today had a lil trouble starting off the trailer but didn't take to long fired it up it idled fine took off and it ran fine until I hit wide open throttle and it skipped and popped for a split sec it will run at wot but doesn't sound like its opening all the way up so I throttled back down till about 3/4 throttle and cruised around for about 30 min did fine at 3/4 throttle. I stopped several times and tried to restart it and it fires up immediately. Ride back to the dock and sat for about 20 min and before I loaded it up I was going to take it for another spin and I wouldn't crank sat there and spun over until the battery went dead. It has a accel coil on it. And the temp never went over 140
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2015 at 9:43pm
Just got the boat home and tried to crank it again and It wouldn't do anything I pulled the dist cap off and it is what looked like a coat of corrosion cleaned it off and it fired up instantly. Could that have been a problem or just luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2015 at 9:53pm
Originally posted by Brock42 Brock42 wrote:

I pulled the dist cap off and it is what looked like a coat of corrosion

Could you be more specific? On the point contact faces?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2015 at 10:02pm
I pulled the dist cap off and noticed some corrosion on what would be the contacts I guess. And on the contact surface there was a powdery like substance built up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2015 at 10:13pm
Brock,
I suggest doing a complete ignition tune up beyond changing spark plugs. You will need distributor cap, rotor, point set and condenser. A feller gauge, timing light and dwell meter will also be needed. It's pretty simple and there are great tutorials on line.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2015 at 10:29pm
Ok i will have to take it to a dealer to do all that I don't think I'm that mechanically inclined.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2015 at 10:25pm
Brock, I'm a bit confused. You said it's a '98, I didn't think they were making the Protec in the late '90's. While you could have both a fuel and ignition problem, I'd concentrate on ignition for now. It ran fine until WOT, which Tony is right could be a fuel problem, but then the re-start problem points more toward ignition.

I think you could easily tackle the ignition with just a little bit of help from here, it's really simple. The only thing you need to get your hands on is a timing light, one that measures initial and total timing, any mechanic will have one. Whatever you decide to do let us know how it turns out!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2015 at 10:32am
Doubt there is points as Pete mentioned and also would question it being a Pro-Boss motor protech conversion. Get some pics of the motor, likely electronic ignition so new plugs, cap & rotor "should" be all that is needed for a tune-up, include wires if they look bad or ends are worn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2015 at 12:57pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2015 at 5:11pm
No Protec there. Where did you even get the idea there was? New cap and rotor you should be in business. Then maybe coil and plug wires.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2015 at 5:30pm
No clue guess to much reading and research I guess. I just ordered a new cap and roder, fuel filter, coil hope this will help my problem. Another question I pulled off my coil and measured the primary and secondary resistance the secondary is within the rated specs however the primary I am getting a 0.0 reading on the meter would this have anything to do with some of the problem
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2015 at 7:37pm
Originally posted by quinner quinner wrote:

Doubt there is points as Pete mentioned

Since it was stated the ignition system was changed, we have no idea whats inside!! Also, we have exchanged many PM's and in one a set of contacts inside the distributor was mentioned!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2015 at 7:47pm
I'm assuming the ignition system has not been changed I thought the 98 model had the protec system whuch I was wrong so it looks to be the original equipment on there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2015 at 2:07pm
Recent update. I replaced coil, cap, rotor, and fuel water separator also drained tank and put fresh gas in. Took it to the lake yesterday and it took like 15 min to get it cranked. Finally got it started and ran the boat for 3 hours. Still won't hit wot but at cruising speed say 30 to 35 the boat runs great. I tried to start the boat this morning and it fired up no problem and the coil was measuring a full 12 volts and it started fine. Went back about a hour later and the coil was measuring 10 volts and while I was cranking it would drop to 8 and the boat would never fire up. Do I have a electrical issue or a fuel delivery problem and where to start thanks for any help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orlando76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2015 at 2:12pm
Jump the coil with 12v from accessory side of solenoid.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2015 at 2:35pm
What would be the reason for the voltage drop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2015 at 2:43pm
Alt vs batt voltage, your numbers look ok for a points/resistor set up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2015 at 3:06pm
I could be wrong but I don't think I have the points resistor setup. It's a 98 pro boss carb.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2015 at 9:07pm
I got the volt meter back out and traced my wires all the way to the coil and I have 12 volts when I plug the purple wire from the distributor back to coil the volts drop back down to 10 what could cause this. Something with the dist causing the volts to drop at the coil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2015 at 10:04pm


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2015 at 10:08pm
Originally posted by Brock42 Brock42 wrote:

I got the volt meter back out and traced my wires all the way to the coil and I have 12 volts when I plug the purple wire from the distributor back to coil the volts drop back down to 10 what could cause this. Something with the dist causing the volts to drop at the coil.

Since you aren't that clear on where you are testing the voltage, nor stating what drop you are reading, I'm going to guess somewhat. The drop is from the resistance of the primary winding in the coil. What are you looking for???


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2015 at 10:12pm
Wiring is hooked up correct but I don't understand the voltage drop when the purple wire from dist is hooked to coil
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2015 at 10:15pm
I'm checking my voltage to the coil and am getting 12 volts but when I hook the purple wore back up from from the dist the voltage drops back to 10.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2015 at 10:08am
Ohms law in action here.

When the + side of coil is hooked up to the resistor, but - side is unhooked, the - terminal is seeing full 12V because there is no current flow. (think of your faucet with the valve closed). When you hook up the distributor, then there is current flow & the resistor will drop out some voltage (V=IR).

Nothing seems wrong to me.
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