Stringers using Coosa

ive seen that before. thought of trying to do the same. I am also using pneumatic cut off wheel. and chisel.   

shierh wrote:     Had to grind out all the glass mat where the rudder mount is.   Will build it back up flat then use coosa backer.

Careful with the composite. It won't like to be compressed by the rudder port mounting.

That is an oem Pleasure Craft Marine oil pan,and has not been modified.

Yup....that is what mine looks like, except I have 4 bolts not rivets holding the dipstick in....which is why I thought it was a home modified one.
What is the oil capacity of that type of pan?

Thanks,

Steve I have a question for you and it may have already been answered somewhere in this string, so if I'm being repetitive please accept my apologies.

I have another string in general questions I have been posting to and I'm looking for a little confirmation. I am in the process of restoring a 1963 17' American Skier. I am currently working in the hull and have unwrapped the stringers. Mine are a little different than yours however your main stringers look identical to mine from your pic. My motor stringers are 2x Fir and the outer are 1x Fir.

My plans are to fillet and rewrap with 1708 biaxial glass (main stringers). I purchased easily enough to do 2 layers and did so very early. As I unwrapped my stringers I was surprised. to find they were tabbed with CSM and the overwrapped with a single layer of (im guessing) 16 oz. or so roving. I have done glasswork before, but have not used 1708 and was quite alarmed at the weight of the roll that arrived.

So the meat of the question is this. Do you have any idea what they had down when you were removing your stringers? You have quite a bit more motor in your boat, mine (hopefully) will see the return of it's little 6 banger. I'm trying to balance strength and weight and since I have a quite narrow space between my main stringers and the outer stringers I'm concerned that at two layers of 1708 in stepped overlap on the bottom of the hull is going to create quite a bit more thickness and rigidity on the bottom of the hull and result in an area that will be prone to stress by virtue of the amount of resin this stuff will sop up and deposit. There's quite a bit of material there now and since I have never tinkered with one of these beasts some of it is tuff to identify as original layup or what may have been a previous addition. From all appearences, my stringers appear to be original and the way they were assembled had all the appearences of employees that once were building in wood.

Any insights you have would be appreciated. BTW your motor looks great!

That 1708 is just what you need. When I removed the stringers in my Mustang I had much the same situation. Primary stringers were tabbed in with heavy woven roving. Entire stringer was not covered. Just around engine area and at the ends. I chopped out all the original foam and found bare fir! The secondaries were the same but just tabbed in with a single layer of CSM.

When I replaced the stringers with cypress, I did a layer of CSM followed by a layer 1708 then another layer of CSM and 1708. Overlapping 4 inches on first layup, 8 inches on second.

The secret to get the 1708 to lay over the corners is to round the tops of the stringers a bit. When laying up, use a small roller and wet out the bottom side of the 1708 then flip it over and will be very supple and go right in to place. Friscoboater on youtube did a great series of videos on layup in his cvx-18 restoration.

Sorry for the delay in getting back guys. Thanks so much for your input. Sorry I don't have any pics with me to post, I will however soon. Yesterday my son and I applied filletes and did a little spot grinding.

Your information was quite helpful. Their had been some repair work done to the hull in the transom area. Bad patch a single layer of boat cloth and it wasn't even wetted out. came off like a bad band aid (my sons description). Anyhow at some point they knew they had a leak and they packed tar caulking around the rudder plate. Did not appear to be the leak.

So. During hardware removal, I could not get the lifting eye / cleat out. It was rusted to the angle attachment to the transom inlay. So I removed the inlay and ground everything down and discovered some stress cracking and almost what I would call crushing or delamination of what appears to have been just multiple layers of original CSM. I then remembered the previous owner said they used the cleat frequently instead of the pylon (why???). I get the impression this was a result of probably tubing.

Lift eye / cleat was probably great for lifting (straight line) and obviously docking probably not so much the way the load would transfer for pulling. the lift eye base was slightly above the deck instead of flush so....

Hey I have seen the "Friscoboater" series on you tube - great information. I was just trying to make sure I build in enough strength in the assemblies. His boats I believe were both outdrives with quite dissimilar motor mounts. I going to use the original or re-made engine beds as constructed. Don't want my stringers to fold up Many thanks again!!

Glassdog wrote: the lifting eye / cleat out. I removed the inlay and ground everything down and discovered some stress cracking and almost what I would call crushing or delamination I then remembered the previous owner said they used the cleat frequently instead of the pylon (why???). I get the impression this was a result of probably tubing. Lift eye / cleat was probably great for lifting (straight line) and obviously docking probably not so much the way the load would transfer for pulling. the lift eye base was slightly above the deck instead of flush so....

Good guess on the tubing issue,
It's been mentioned many times that the lifting eyes are designed for a vertical load. There are even decals on some models warning about using them for pulling.

All 4 stringers are now in. Will finish leveling them off this weekend and make and install x members and start on floor.

Working on body work at same time. all hardware has been removed including windshield. Entire top and sides of hull have been sanded to good gelcoat.   Its a plain white wrapper at this time.   grinding out blisters and will fill as i go.   Bottom is heavily blistered and lots of stress spiderweb from removal of stringers.   

Stringers are done. the side floor panels are glassed in and installed backer plate for rudder and for rear lifting ring mount.   I decided to flip boat over on the trailer to do blister repair. There are hundreds of them. I took boat to the coast and had the Cape Marina flip it over using travel lift. only cost 80.00.   its sitting on 4x4 with styrofoam pads.   

I was able to do in an hour with it upside down that would take me a whole day lying on my back under the thing.   All blisters are opened up and first coat of fill is in.   Going to take 2 coats to make it smooth and flush.   also with it upside down i can now say that the hull is very even, no bulges from stringer removal error.   

Will finish fairing friday evening and saturday and hope to shoot gell coat sunday then take it back next weekend and flip it over again and install engine.   

will wet
sand and buff   yes it will likely take one weekend

You either have better tools than me or a small army helping you, ha. I had about 40 hrs into the deck of my Ski Nautique, and that was just bringing the color and shine back (400 grit +). Orange peel is a bit more serious.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/15695/IMG_2206.JPG

I have a 63 skier hull, that has been thrashed by weather over the years. Not much left. I have what I believe to be some good parts. I really hate to haul to the dump but are you by chance looking for any hard parts or motor accessories? Strut, prop, motor hatch, gauges, shift linkage, complete 144 motor, etc.
In Oklahoma, please PM me and I'll be happy to let you know what I have.