351 W stops after being shut off wont start

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I have a 1986 Correct Craft Martinique that starts and runs strong. After I shut it down it will not re-start. Even with starting fluid! It does not act like it is flooded.

Replaced coil, ignition switch and put in modern water/ fuel filter.

Help the Grandkids want to Wakeboard next weekend!

Commodore Bob

Bob,
It's great that you found CCfan and welcome. The normal request is for pictures. We'd love to see some. A diary entry would be great as well.

Make sure it's not flooding. When you shut it down, look down the throat of the carb. (remove the flame arrestor). If you see gas dripping, the carb most likely needs a rebuild. If it is floofing, in the short term, when starting open the throttle almost all the way. This allows more air and will overcome all the gas.

Since you say it won't even start with starting fluid, then you are correct that there may be an ignition problem. Check for spark and get back to us. Does it have a point set in the distributor or an EI conversion?

BTW, please get rid of the starting fluid. You are ruining your engine. The stuff is a strong solvent and washes the oil off the cylinder walls.

Coil is warm. And NEW. Same problem as with the old coil. It has electronic conversion.
I will check the spark. But why would it start and run like a champ then after setting for a few minutes refuse to start?

Thanks,

Commodore Bob

Thanks for the reply. I am almost positive about the flooding. With the throttle advanced and in the neutral position (gate pulled out) she still cranks. Spark arrestor off and no choke showing. ( I even tried to choke it manually with no results) I thought of a stuck float? Bad fuel pump? Have replaced the ignition switch, coil and put a new style fuel water separator on. It does have Electronic Ignition conversion. Looks like dual pick ups on the Dist. Lobe.

It runs perfect, but does not like to idle below 1000 RPM. Timing? 351 PCM Windsor 1986 with 675 hrs.

We love the Boat and just a good old Cheesehead in Florida!

Commodore Bob

Thanks,

It just acts like it is not getting gas? It initially start and runs like a champ but does not like to idle under 1,000 (smooth not like bad valves)    When shut off she refuses to start. Strong battery all cells good 12+ volts.

Thanks,
Commodore Bob

In Lake Placid Florida. 10 Miles south of Sebring.

If you know of someone that understands older inboards send them my way. I will even bring the boat to them. I'm Retired

I have done the work myself. We have only owned the boat since June. It already had the electronic ignition installed. I could not get the gas filter apart so I replaced it with a new style spin on (same problem before and after the swap) but now the filter is easy to change. I checked all cells in the battery and all are good. I thought maybe the coil was soft so I replaced it from Nautique Parts. Then the ignition switch was sticky so just to be sure I replaced it.

I know enough about Motors to get into trouble. Some suggest the timing is too advanced?
Up to 1986 I guess it is 6 deg. b-4 TDC and after 86 10 deg. May try that. Also I can take off the fuel feed to the carb and crank it and see if the fuel pump is working. (It does not smell or act flooded)

If I have spark and I have fuel it must be the carb? Float or?

Commodore Bob THINKING ALOUD

Bob,
Do check for spark. If the timing is off even more than 10 degrees, the engine will run. As HW mentioned, it sounds like you just like throwing parts at it. Don't!! Do some testing first.

[QUOTE=phillipsrj] Font=AerialSIZE=3)/SIZE)

I have a 1986 Correct Craft Martinique that starts and runs strong. After I shut it down it will not re-start. Even with starting fluid! It does not act like it is flooded.

Replaced coil, ignition switch and put in modern water/ fuel filter.

10/24/15 I finally got her back into the drink! Ran good for a half hour then I brought her back and the same thing happened . She would not re-start after setting about 10 minutes.
What I did is pull a plug and check for spark. (No spark) Before that I put 1 OZ of fuel down the carb. No pops or trying to start. I SAY IGNITION! NOW the boat has been converted to EI before I got it> I pulled the dist. cap and the EI was really hot as well as the new coil I had just put in. ( I could not put my finger on it for a count to five ) The distributor cap looked ok, clean and the posts were not funky.

SOME SAY VAPOR LOCK BUT THAT WOULD NOT STOP THE SPARK

The engine runs at temps between 160 and 180 ..180 when pulling hard. Is the engine running too hot? Normally between 160 and 170 in warm Florida water.
What Say Correct Craft Guys & Gals?
Commodore Bob

8122pbrainard wrote: phillipsrj wrote: Coil is warm. And NEW. Same problem as with the old coil. It has electronic conversion. Commodore Bob I suspect the EI conversion. Put the point set back in.

The EI was done before I purchased the Boat. I will try the test. Are coils supposed to be very hot? I really don't like points but I would rather get a good replacement EI if one is available. Any suggestions?

Thank you very much.
Commodore Bob

I have no Idea what a ballast resistor is or where to look for it? Any pics?

Commodore Bob

Bob,
How did you select the coil? What voltage is going to the coil? Some are internally resisted dropping the voltage and others need the ballast resistor to drop the volts before the coil. It's a white ceramic piece about 2" long next to the main breaker on the aft end of the engine.

phillipsrj wrote: I really don't like points but I would rather get a good replacement EI if one is available. Commodore Bob

Bob,
Personally I don'y feel there is a good EI conversion replacement When they go bad, they can strand you out in the middle of the lake. Because of this, there are some who even carry a spare module on board! With a point set, unlike a EI which typically works or doesn't, points going will typically cause some engine stumbling. A quick cleanup of the contact faces will get you home. As mentioned, if a EI is the way someone wants, the way to go is a DUI which is a complete distributor replacement. There are no performance gains by just dropping in a EI module. Points have worked since the turn of the century after the "hit and miss" ignitions. I have gone YEARS without even pulling a cap off a distributor. The only issue you may have with going back to a point set is not having the base plate for them inside your distributor. Did the PO by chance include the plate when he sold it?

You haven't mentioned why you don't like points. I'm curious.

As HW mentioned, do you have a friend who is more acquainted with engines who could help out?