No spark=No start, need to winterize!

Why do you have to start it for winterizing? Drain, pour in the antifreeze, fog via the spark plug holes and put it to bed. Then over winter it will give you plenty of time to pull the EI conversion and go back to a reliable set of points.What are the other mechanics telling you?

Matt,
Check out the sites reference section under manuals. There's a PCM manual with some pretty decent lay up instructions. Basically there's 5 drains. One on each side of the block, one on each exhaust manifold and then the last is on the J tube in the front of the engine.

Found the lay up instructions, seems easy enough.
I don't think i have a tranny cooler SNobsessed.

Thanks guys for all the help. The only problem i see with following the lay up instructions
is that the boat was always kept in warm storage and those plugs have never been removed. I would really like to get it started if anyone knows what would cause it to lose spark, coil, pick up coil, rotor or something else.

First one said the coil was good but didn't know what the problem was.
Second said its probably the pick up coil.
I talk to the third one over the phone said its the ECM, which i don't know if that boat even has one.

Its an 81 correct craft with PCM 302 i believe. The mechanic that said ECM was over the phone.

Since it happened by hitting the shallows I suspect you hit mud or bottom with the prop stalling the engine? And now it won't run?
Check to make sure your key switch still works. Maybe a wire got pulled off or the switch failed with the jolt.
Verify your engine is getting spark at the spark plugs.
If no spark start with the start circuit at the key and work your way back to the engine.
Most likely you lost power when something was bounced hitting the shallows.
Remember there are two power wires that make the engine run leaving your key switch.
One is the start circuit and one is the run circuit, they both need 12 V. Your coil or coil pak will need 12V while you are cranking the engine. and the key is in the start position.

The resistors are still mounted but were disconnected when the EI was installed.

I am doing some test myself now. I am getting 12v at the + and - side of the coil when its grounded and turning the engine over. But not getting any voltage when checking just the
-+ on the coil.

8122pbrainard wrote: The Ei conversion would be the first thing I'd look at. Yes, what did the other mechanics say? 8122pbrainard wrote: over winter it will give you plenty of time to pull the EI conversion and go back to a reliable set of points.What are the other mechanics telling you?

Matt,
You mentioned before that the plugs have never been removed and then above you mention they are "way too hard". Are you thinking they will be hard to unscrew or hard to get to with a socket? Sooner or later they are going to have to come out. It still is an option and may be easier than swapping back to a point set.

Thanks for the help guys. As i wasn't getting anywhere with the EI i decided to try and remove the drain plugs. The two manifold ones were as hard as i thought they would be
but was able to get them off with a ratchet and small pipe for added torque.
The block ones were very easy and on the front U pipe i just cut the hoses.

Should i convert back to points or leave it as EI. If points are better or more reliable
why do people convert to EI in the first place ?

quinner wrote: matcbr wrote: Should i convert back to points or leave it as EI. If points are better or more reliable why do people convert to EI in the first place ? Do not listen to Pete's rants on this, EI is better.

LOL. Don't see why people would go to EI if it wasn't.

quinner wrote: matcbr wrote: Should i convert back to points or leave it as EI. If points are better or more reliable why do people convert to EI in the first place ? Do not listen to Pete's rants on this, EI is better.

Matt,
Don't listen to CQ's rants on this, points don't have the reputation of failure like the EI conversions do.

Tim sums it up very well:
QUOTE=TRBenj] I'm convinced people convert to EI because they refuse to learn how to adjust points properly. It's not hard or time consuming. If EI were better you wouldn't be facing a $100 module replacement when you lose spark- you'd just need a piece of sandpaper and worst case, a $20 tune up kit. Short of a performance build where improved advance curves and hotter spark are advantageous, electronic ignitions are not beneficial IMHO. I do not care for the conversion kits. [/QUOTE]
Thank you Tim. BTW, I'd trust you under the dog house rather than Chris any day!

Matt,
See if you can try this test. Pull a spark plug and remove it's wire from the distributor. Remove the main wire off the middle of the distributor and plug the spark plug into it. Ground the plug. (a jumper with alligator clips works best). Turn the ignition switch to run and confirm you have 12 volts nominal to the + on the coil. (don't leave it turned on for long periods of time) Remove the - wire off the coil that runs to the distributor and then using another jumper, ground the - side of the coil. When you remove the - jumper, you should get spark at the plug. Report back.