Trailer rehab - questions

Along with fixing up my 99 Air Nautique, I need to do some work to the trailer. To pull it home, we replaced some lights, and installed a new swing jack. When we got it home we replaced the carpet on the fenderwells. I purchased a set of wheel dollies from Summit racing (the ones from Harbor Frieght collapsed, literally) and now I can push the boat around in the garage nicely.

Here are my questions, hopefully I can get a few answers to save time and $4.

I believe the trailer is a Ramlin, but the VIN is illegible. Single axle, equipped with drum brakes. They have been disconnected, and a new non-surge coupler installed.

Should I install disc brakes with a new surge coupler? And stay with surge rather than electric over hydraulic control? Or should I just repair the drum brakes and replace the surge coupler? I might consider a fold away tongue coupler to help with garage storage.

I understand that surge brakes are just fine for level travel, but my boat trailering will be on pretty steep grades, although I won't be trailering very often.

Are surge brake systems fairly easy to install? By that I mean easy to adjust, bleed, etc. Are they pretty much plug and play? I can certainly handle the install, but would hate to spend 700-800 on parts and the brakes not work at all.

Is there a way to get a paint match for the trailer? Would like to touch up the rust places.

On one of the other posts about trailer rehab I read that a roller guide was installed to help protect the prop and shaft. They have some of those at Etrailer. The group seemed to think adding one of those would help protect the prop. Couldn't see where it was installed but I'm assuming towards the center to keep everything aligned as you power on?

Any advice would be appreciated and I'll dance at your next wedding.

Thanks for the advice, I have used a bleeder before as my uncle taught me years ago. I'm guessing the surge hitch will come with instruction about fill level for the fluid, etc?

I do believe the trailer is a 99 also, original with the boat. I think anyway.

I might consider changing to discs on the brakes but if not I will certainly replace the drum plates as well. Trailer has suffered some neglect, as has the boat. The guy who sold it to me loaded and unloaded it with no fender protection on one side! Risking damage to the hull over $10 worth of plywood and carpet and a few minutes work. I took care of that as soon as I got home.

I don't have curbs to bounce over, so I guess the roller wouldn''t be necessary? Boat sits pretty level hooked to the truck(s) I use to tow, so the drop seems to be ok.

Hope someone does have the paint code, that would rock.

Oh yeah, most of our '90 and 2000 era boats sit SLIGHTLY nose down on the trailer connected up to the truck. The owner's manual will dictate ball height. (see reference section if you don't have yours)

8122pbrainard wrote: I don't tow much. Maybe a couple 3 mile trips a year to the launch and then the longest would be a GL trip of 100 miles.

Heck Pete at that rate I'd get 30 years too.

8122pbrainard wrote: Air206 wrote: BTW - Electric brakes are finicky on a boat trailer. Steve, What problems are you referring to? I put electrics on my X55 trailer over 30 years ago and have never had a single problem.

Were electric brakes original to the X55 trailer? or is that a Mod?

Is there a battery box and actuator on the frame as backup for safety? How did they handle that issue 30+ years ago? Very interesting, wanna know more................

I feel ya Pete. Soldering lighting connections are the way to go! Saves sooooooo much heartache down the road........

Can you email me some pics of the X? Sounds neat from many aspects............

8122pbrainard wrote: Air206 wrote: Is there a battery box and actuator on the frame as backup for safety? How did they handle that issue 30+ years ago? Very interesting, wanna know more................ Steve, so it got the tow vehicle brake controller connected to the vehicle brakes. .

Steve,
An added benefit of having electric brakes with the controller in the tow vehicle is the ability to manually activate the trailer brakes. It applies more to trailers being towed on icy or snow covered roads rather than boat trailers but, I did need to use it once. If, the trailer starts to fish tail, applying the trailer brakes manually will straighten out the trailer recovering from the fish tail.

TRBenj wrote: Bleeding is likely a 2 person job but very easy. .

Tim,
You need to get one of these!

Your Prestige trailer looks an awful lot like mine! I'll shoot some pictures on Friday when I get back to the lake, but you may be correct and the trailer is a Prestige.

I know the carpeted fender liners are spot on from the photos. I replaced both of them as soon as I got the boat home. You can do some significant damage to the hull without them, as the edge of the fender is sharp.

I do recall the brake line terminated near the tongue with a snap in fitting, like an air hose, which seemed a little strange to me. Don't know why you would be disconnecting a brake line?

Since Prestige is out of business I guess there is no getting the paint color?

Thanks for all the input, I will shoot some photos on Friday.

Happy New Year.

8122pbrainard wrote: TRBenj wrote: Bleeding is likely a 2 person job but very easy. . Tim, You need to get one of these!

My friends work cheap, Pete... 5 min of their time doesn't cost much. I can buy a lot of beer for $200!

Maybe someday when I'm rich and famous...

TRBenj wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: TRBenj wrote: Bleeding is likely a 2 person job but very easy. . Tim, You need to get one of these! My friends work cheap, Pete... 5 min of their time doesn't cost much. I can buy a lot of beer for $200! Maybe someday when I'm rich and famous...

I like the ad -                  "Do the Job right"........ 3/5 Stars
(well 1/2 way right, anyway)

Psssst Tim - its $30.00 ......... I know some of your friends, they drink more than $30.00 in beer!

Air206 wrote: TRBenj wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: TRBenj wrote: Bleeding is likely a 2 person job but very easy. . Tim, You need to get one of these! My friends work cheap, Pete... 5 min of their time doesn't cost much. I can buy a lot of beer for $200! ... Psssst Tim - its $30.00 ......... I know some of your friends, they drink more than $30.00 in beer!

Ether Tim used the wrong link or he needs to make an appointment with the eye doc!!

When soldering connections, do you use a crimp connector and then solder and heat shrink over? I am replacing my bilge blower and thought I would connect the old plug connection to the bare wires on the replacement so it could be removed again if necessary.

Thanks

If you do use a crimp connection (sta-con) the best out there are the ones with the adhesive lined heat shrink. There are also crimp on's that have solder in them. Heating them with the heat gun melts the solder and shrinks the heat shrink.

sport1999 wrote: MurphyCO wrote: I know the carpeted fender liners are spot on from the photos. I replaced both of them as soon as I got the boat home. You can do some significant damage to the hull without them, as the edge of the fender is sharp. I had to learn this the hard way. I added lock nuts and new bolts to the fender liners to ensure they do not come loose again. MurphyCO wrote: I do recall the brake line terminated near the tongue with a snap in fitting, like an air hose, which seemed a little strange to me. Don't know why you would be disconnecting a brake line? My trailer has the same termination and no working surge brakes. The tongue was replaced, so I am not sure how everything was originally constructed. Would be interested in learning more about a repair. Good luck I'm learning a lot about the brakes and leaning toward going to disc brakes, but that depends on what I find when I pull wheels next weekend. Working with Etrailer, and I think I will go with a break away tongue too, as I can fit the boat in my garage with the platform removed. At least I think I can. It's down to inches literally. Etrailer guys are very good on the phone, but I need to pull the wheels and determine the bearing and race sizes. I did find the axle capacity is 5200 lbs, and all the brake lines seem to be in good order so replacing the drum brakes will be cheaper. Will post pics when I decide. Still wish someone knew the Prestige paint color #? Thanks everyone for your input. Learning lots!