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MurphyCO View Drop Down
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    Posted: January-18-2016 at 12:14am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MurphyCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-18-2016 at 12:07am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Gary,
Looking at your picture in your diary, I can't tell how the trailer tongue is set up since the picture isn't close enough . Can the tongue be unbolted and the reason for the quick connect? I have seen this set up but I can't remember on what make trailer. With the jack stand on the tongue, the main frame is blocked up and then the tongue is removed.


You are absolutely correct sir. The tongue is completely removable Two pins and undo the winch strap and slide it out I've installed jacks on each side to make it easy to move around the garage, so the problem will be solved by pulling out the tongue.

I wonder about the quick coupler allowing air into the system, but to bleed the brakes once a year wouldn't be much of an issue even if required.

Thanks so much, pictures on the way. Still learning my way around the site.

Gary
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-17-2016 at 9:43pm
Push the nose over and crank the tongue down, you can get that inch...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fanofccfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-17-2016 at 11:32am
After zooming in again it looks to swing away horizontally.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fanofccfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-17-2016 at 11:14am
we need pictures....as Pete stated...the diary is not close enough to zoom. From what I can see it looks like the bow stop comes out the top and then the tongue breaks vertically?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-17-2016 at 7:13am
Gary,
Looking at your picture in your diary, I can't tell how the trailer tongue is set up since the picture isn't close enough . Can the tongue be unbolted and the reason for the quick connect? I have seen this set up but I can't remember on what make trailer. With the jack stand on the tongue, the main frame is blocked up and then the tongue is removed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MurphyCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-16-2016 at 11:49pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Your Prestige tongue does not already fold/swing for storage?


Does not fold. Misses clearing my garage door by an inch with the platform removed.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MurphyCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-05-2016 at 3:27pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by MurphyCO MurphyCO wrote:

I do recall the brake line terminated near the tongue with a snap in fitting, like an air hose, which seemed a little strange to me. Don't know why you would be disconnecting a brake line?

Hydraulic quick connects are used on removable or swing away tongues.


That's exactly what it looks like, a hydraulic quick connect. Works great for hydraulics on tractors and stuff, guess I just never considered it for brakes. Apparently it doesn't allow air in requiring bleeding? I know hydraulic disconnects on skid steer loaders are pretty easy, but that's a whole lot more fluid running around and strong pumps.

I definitely want to go back with that coupling, especially if one existed at some point. Would make coupling up easier.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-05-2016 at 2:21pm
Your Prestige tongue does not already fold/swing for storage?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-05-2016 at 2:11pm
Originally posted by MurphyCO MurphyCO wrote:

I do recall the brake line terminated near the tongue with a snap in fitting, like an air hose, which seemed a little strange to me. Don't know why you would be disconnecting a brake line?

Hydraulic quick connects are used on removable or swing away tongues.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MurphyCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-05-2016 at 1:37pm
Originally posted by sport1999 sport1999 wrote:

Originally posted by MurphyCO MurphyCO wrote:

I know the carpeted fender liners are spot on from the photos. I replaced both of them as soon as I got the boat home. You can do some significant damage to the hull without them, as the edge of the fender is sharp.


I had to learn this the hard way. I added lock nuts and new bolts to the fender liners to ensure they do not come loose again.

Originally posted by MurphyCO MurphyCO wrote:


I do recall the brake line terminated near the tongue with a snap in fitting, like an air hose, which seemed a little strange to me. Don't know why you would be disconnecting a brake line?


My trailer has the same termination and no working surge brakes. The tongue was replaced, so I am not sure how everything was originally constructed. Would be interested in learning more about a repair.

Good luck

I'm learning a lot about the brakes and leaning toward going to disc brakes, but that depends on what I find when I pull wheels next weekend. Working with Etrailer, and I think I will go with a break away tongue too, as I can fit the boat in my garage with the platform removed. At least I think I can. It's down to inches literally.

Etrailer guys are very good on the phone, but I need to pull the wheels and determine the bearing and race sizes. I did find the axle capacity is 5200 lbs, and all the brake lines seem to be in good order so replacing the drum brakes will be cheaper. Will post pics when I decide.

Still wish someone knew the Prestige paint color #?

Thanks everyone for your input. Learning lots!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-04-2016 at 2:33pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

If you do use a crimp connection (sta-con) the best out there are the ones with the adhesive lined heat shrink. There are also crimp on's that have solder in them. Heating them with the heat gun melts the solder and shrinks the heat shrink.


The ones Pete mentions are the current marine industry standard. Splice and solder is overkill (and may be difficult in tight spots) but eliminates a source of corrostion and voltage drop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-04-2016 at 2:15pm
If you do use a crimp connection (sta-con) the best out there are the ones with the adhesive lined heat shrink. There are also crimp on's that have solder in them. Heating them with the heat gun melts the solder and shrinks the heat shrink.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-04-2016 at 1:39pm
Bare wire to bare wire Western Union splice, soldered and seperate wire shrink-wrap. You can electrical tape over the top if you want to keep it all together.... but generally, no shrink over shrink........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MurphyCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-04-2016 at 1:03pm
When soldering connections, do you use a crimp connector and then solder and heat shrink over? I am replacing my bilge blower and thought I would connect the old plug connection to the bare wires on the replacement so it could be removed again if necessary.

Thanks

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 3:13pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Ether Tim used that wrong link or he needs to make an appointment with the eye doc!!


I think maybe Quinner is right, and Tim is going blind cuz of it........... just sayin'.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 3:05pm
Originally posted by Air206 Air206 wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Bleeding is likely a 2 person job but very easy.
.

Tim,
You need to get one of these!

My friends work cheap, Pete... 5 min of their time doesn't cost much. I can buy a lot of beer for $200!
...

Psssst Tim - its $30.00 ......... I know some of your friends, they drink more than $30.00 in beer!

Ether Tim used the wrong link or he needs to make an appointment with the eye doc!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 2:56pm
That's not mine baby!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 2:55pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Bleeding is likely a 2 person job but very easy.
.

Tim,
You need to get one of these!

My friends work cheap, Pete... 5 min of their time doesn't cost much. I can buy a lot of beer for $200!

Maybe someday when I'm rich and famous...


I like the ad -                  "Do the Job right"........ 3/5 Stars
(well 1/2 way right, anyway)

Psssst Tim - its $30.00 ......... I know some of your friends, they drink more than $30.00 in beer!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 2:13pm
In the meantime timmy I bet your Austin powers Swedish made weenie enlarging pump could serve double duty as a brake bleeder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 12:47pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Bleeding is likely a 2 person job but very easy.
.

Tim,
You need to get one of these!

My friends work cheap, Pete... 5 min of their time doesn't cost much. I can buy a lot of beer for $200!

Maybe someday when I'm rich and famous...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sport1999 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 12:40pm
Originally posted by MurphyCO MurphyCO wrote:

I know the carpeted fender liners are spot on from the photos. I replaced both of them as soon as I got the boat home. You can do some significant damage to the hull without them, as the edge of the fender is sharp.


I had to learn this the hard way. I added lock nuts and new bolts to the fender liners to ensure they do not come loose again.

Originally posted by MurphyCO MurphyCO wrote:


I do recall the brake line terminated near the tongue with a snap in fitting, like an air hose, which seemed a little strange to me. Don't know why you would be disconnecting a brake line?


My trailer has the same termination and no working surge brakes. The tongue was replaced, so I am not sure how everything was originally constructed. Would be interested in learning more about a repair.

Good luck

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MurphyCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 12:09pm
Your Prestige trailer looks an awful lot like mine! I'll shoot some pictures on Friday when I get back to the lake, but you may be correct and the trailer is a Prestige.

I know the carpeted fender liners are spot on from the photos. I replaced both of them as soon as I got the boat home. You can do some significant damage to the hull without them, as the edge of the fender is sharp.

I do recall the brake line terminated near the tongue with a snap in fitting, like an air hose, which seemed a little strange to me. Don't know why you would be disconnecting a brake line?

Since Prestige is out of business I guess there is no getting the paint color?

Thanks for all the input, I will shoot some photos on Friday.

Happy New Year.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sport1999 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 11:39am
I looked back at your previous thread and I would guess you actually have a Prestige trailer. The Prestige would have a torsion axle and Ramlin leaf springs. Take a few pictures if you make a repair.

Prestige
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 10:31am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Bleeding is likely a 2 person job but very easy.
.

Tim,
You need to get one of these!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 10:05am
Back to the original question...

I would recommend keeping things simple and going back with the surge drum brakes. They're very simple and much more cost effective than converting to disks. If your hub/drums are good (just need new bearings and seals), and lines are clear, you're half way there. The brake assemblies can be replaced for ~$80/ea or refurb'd for less if you have the time and inclination. Coupler will probably run about $200. Bleeding is likely a 2 person job but very easy.

I can't speak to relative effectiveness on long, steep grades vs disks or electric, but they definitely work effectively and are easy to maintain. We have some pretty hilly terrain here, and we tow with mid size SUV's, so they're definitely nice to have.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 6:56am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Air206 Air206 wrote:


Is there a battery box and actuator on the frame as backup for safety? How did they handle that issue 30+ years ago? Very interesting, wanna know more................

Steve,
so it got the tow vehicle brake controller connected to the vehicle brakes. .

Steve,
An added benefit of having electric brakes with the controller in the tow vehicle is the ability to manually activate the trailer brakes. It applies more to trailers being towed on icy or snow covered roads rather than boat trailers but, I did need to use it once. If, the trailer starts to fish tail, applying the trailer brakes manually will straighten out the trailer recovering from the fish tail.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 12:44am
Gary - look at the complete disc "kits". I really like mine and they help significantly in snow/ice and on steep grades. My only issue was on the hubs I needed on the Excel trailer, the dust caps are a bit of a unique size..... made getting at the axle zerks with replacement dustcaps a little challenging finding a "non-standard" size.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-30-2015 at 12:15am
I feel ya Pete. Soldering lighting connections are the way to go! Saves sooooooo much heartache down the road........

Can you email me some pics of the X? Sounds neat from many aspects............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-29-2015 at 9:44pm
Originally posted by Air206 Air206 wrote:


Were electric brakes original to the X55 trailer? or is that a Mod?

Is there a battery box and actuator on the frame as backup for safety? How did they handle that issue 30+ years ago? Very interesting, wanna know more................

Steve,
The trailer under the X is a old Stars and Stripes MC trailer that was jack knifed. I picked it up for $100, welded on a new frame forward of the first cross member, straightened the rest of the frame and installed new springs as well as the brakes. It originally had the fiberglass belly pan/fenders but it was too far gone so I ended fabricating new fenders and running boards from aluminum diamond plate. Back then backup batteries and actuators on the trailer weren't required so it got the tow vehicle brake controller connected to the vehicle brakes. Wiring has never been a problem since I wired the brakes just like I do the lighting. Soldered connections and heat shrink tubing over the connection.


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