1992 Sport Floor Replacement

Maybe take a 2x4 & drill holes for those studs. Then screw it down tight before you remove the cradle. Then it won't flex if you have to persuade it.

I will have to take a closer look. At least I know it isn't anything to worry about too much. Thanks guys.

I am literally about to start floor in my 1990 Sport, After reading this Im super nervous about the front cap. Have you finished the project? Thank God for this thread, I can really see what Im getting into.

JReisch09 wrote: I am literally about to start floor in my 1990 Sport, After reading this Im super nervous about the front cap. Have you finished the project? Thank God for this thread, I can really see what Im getting into.

I did my 92 sport this winter. Don't be nervous, just do your research and plan out how you want to do it and then execute the plan. Take your time and do it right though. It's not super hard but it is very time consuming. I had probably 20-30 hours into mine. Maybe more, who knows. Also, plan on spending around $1,500.

Personally I used epoxy resin as I had several guys on here tell me it was easier to use. I had no issues using it at all. I had a soft spot in front of my engine and behind my drivers seat. My original plan was to simple replace the floor. I had checked my engine mount bolts and they still torqued good for some reason. However, one day I stuck my hand through the ski locker hole and touched the string and my finger when through the stringer. When I tore into it I realized that my stringers were actually getting pretty bad. I might could've made it a couple more seasons but I don't like things not being in good shape so I went a head and replaced them. If you have soft spots I would guess your stringers are bad too.

Jon,
Engine and trans bolts tightening is only one indicator of a problem and in my opinion not a good one. The real indicator is all the soft spots in the sole you mention. I'd say you may be surprised at what you find under the sole.

I also recommend epoxy resin and not the poly. Epoxy is stronger, has better bonding plus it's not hygroscopic like the poly is.

Made a little more progress the last two weekends. 3 stringers are now glassed in. Decided not to cap the last 2 with 1708 until I get everything set to the right height. I am going to have to grind down the first one due to not fully laying out my plan and getting the correct main stringer material.

I got the last bit of floor cut out of the way so that I can get at the last stringer. It feels good to be able to say last. Having that section of floor in made working in the boat slightly more comfortable when working on my hands and knees, though.


The pipe for pulling the cables and wires through the floor was different than I expected. To turn it up someone cut a fish mouth in the side and then wrapped masking tape around it. Did anyone else find something like this in their floor? As stated before, someone probably replaced the plywood under the driver seat so this may have been replaced at the same time.

Got the last stringer out of a boat that I own. It took all day. Not something I plan to do ever again. I have done most of the grinding to get things cleaned up. Still have more to go. I am ready to be finished with deconstruction and move on to getting it back together. Timeline is much longer than I originally thought.

KRoundy wrote: "Timeline is much longer than I originally thought." Ha ha ha... that about sums up everything I do with my boat.

That sums up not only my boat projects but any project I undertake!!

It has been a while since I have posted. Lots of boring progress. Grind, shape, layer of peanut butter, weigh down, and layer after layer of fiberglass.

The starboard secondary stringer is just a bit higher than the primary so I chose to cap it with the cloth tape rather than the 1708 I used for the others.   This should protect and still have plenty of strength since it only supports the floor. I want it to be perfect, but that flew out the window when I started because I am not perfect.

I learned as I went how to wet out the fiberglass. I was trying to put down resin then lay the 1708 on top then put more resin on top. This was frustrating and not as effective as flipping it over, wetting several feet, then flipping that over into place and wetting the outside. I would then roll a section back, wet the back, put that section in place, and wet the top of it. Walking down the stringers this way seemed much easier. Maybe it was the difference in how tired I was.

Next up is putting in the bulkhead behind the ski locker. I have shaped and CPES'ed it. Just got to wrap it in fiberglass and then used my milled glass mix to glue it in and put a couple of layers of tape on the edges. Should be much easier than the long stringers. After that it will be finishing up the pipe for conduit and air duct and I will be ready to foam. Since I couldn't get all of the foam out, I figured it was best to replace it. Hopefully next update will be quicker and with better looking progress.

The smoother you get the bilge before painting the easier it is to clean and keep it clean later down the road, also looks a little more professional. JMO and experience as I already did a stringer job on my '85.
Nice looking job by the way.

Been a while since I have posted any progress. That is mainly because it has been slow progress. I have been putting the foam in and finishing coating the plywood for the floor (sole) with fiberglass. I have learned a lot of lessons. I used 3 kits of foam and still need another to finish it due to wasting because of over pouring it. I realize now I should have poured smaller batches as I got close to being finished. Lesson learned, don't get in a hurry.

Also, I recommend not wearing a suit when mixing and pouring the foam, but shaping the foam creates a mess that is best done with a Tyvek suit on. It is almost as bad grinding fiberglass.

Looking good. I love that trash can. Roll Tide!

Shaping foam stinks!

Looking good, great progress!