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wake plate

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baitkiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: wake plate
    Posted: January-07-2016 at 9:43am
Thinking of adding a fixed stern plate to lessen the bow hop at barefoot speeds. Not on the fly trim tabs, just a fixed plate with turnbuckles like on the Sangers.
My boat hops pretty darn hard over 42. Tower or LH prop to blame, maybe. I dont care. They are staying.
Has anyone done this with success and if so what info can you share with me?
Thanks.
Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Hollywood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2016 at 2:51pm
Go for it. Luckily you don't have the hard padded keel to contend with.

Pretty much standard equipment for American Skier tournament boats throughout their history. I never could get any real information out of Ron Tanis about the plate though...
1980 "18' skier" model, I believe their first?


The Advance got a vertical fin. I would guess more for tracking & turning than bouncing/wake shape.


backfoot100's boat (same design as above)


jbear's Volante hull with molded platform and "plate" but notice the lack of fin (probably not worth the effort of adding it later). I can tell you there is no bouncing whatsoever even up to 47mph.


The only draw back to the AS hull bottom mount is lack of adjustability like the Sanger, MasterCraft and Malibu "barefoot" plates have. Luckily for those hulls though they are flat at the keel/transom.

So, you have more like an American Skier hull than the others but without the molded pocket for a bottom mounted plate. I would build one like the AS and attach it to the transom. Do your homework and add a tiny bit of downward angle (hook) to it and go from there. Wouldn't be too hard to remove it and fab a new one at different angle later if desired.

(I made sure to copy this text before clicking submit)
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Hollywood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2016 at 3:15pm
Not gonna mess with that post above here is some more info. Pretty sure there are/were actual recommendations for plate angle. However, from what I recall they weren't too technical. Something like "fit an 1/8" drill bit inside the arc from the hull transom to the aft edge of the plate under a straight edge"

From Barefoot Central boat tests
Sanger DXII "Plate Adjustment: Bottom edge of plate is exactly 1/2" down or one full turn down from level"


Malibu Response Barefoot Edition "Plate Adjustment: Bottom edge of plate is exactly 3/8" down from level"


MasterCraft 197 - no data

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2016 at 3:57pm
Have you tried getting some weight way up forward in the bow?? Wondering if that would create a similar effect as a wake plate re: the hop??
The Malibu plate looks like it's mounted to a "wedge":bracket
The MC plate appears to be simplest to duplicate though maybe not as stout as the others.

A lefty with a tower, shame on you, lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2016 at 5:46pm
Maybe GlassSeeker can expand on his Sanger's "high tech alignment system."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2016 at 9:33pm
Called a "cavitation" plate downunder.. the inboard racing boats have a foot petal on the fly adjustable setup. Almost all of the flat bottom aussie built ski boats have a turnbuckle type setup like the Sanger.

Probably much easier than to having to incorporate hook into the hull. Out of the mold every hull can be a little different. Thus it can provide a adjustment to correct the variations.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2016 at 10:17pm
They are called cavitation plates here too, Mark, at least in the context of high performance boats. Not sure I would call these little plates that ski boats have cavitation plates, but I don't know. My Supra had one too. I never messed with it, but I should have. That boat for its age had a great wake, but it also had a rooster tail at 22 off. Been interesting to see if the plate would have affected that.   As far as the cavitation plates on flatties, it is my understanding that there is a real art/science to operating them.. Most have a locking lever to lock it in place, but also a pedal that a good driver finesses with the throttle to get just the right setting at each speed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2016 at 9:58am
Just thinking out loud here John but I really don't think one of these will do you a bit of good to fix your porpoising symptoms.. The "Scarpa Plate" as it was called was installed to change the wake characteristics for barefooting. It had little if any effect on the overall wake shape but it did help define and smooth out the wake table to make barefoot wake crosses much nicer. At least to the best of my recollection.

You had that boat set up specifically to run in salt which it does admirably and all your water sports activities have consisted of relatively low speed running. Now you and Cam are expanding your skiing horizons which are requiring more speed. When JBear and I came to ski with you I thought it was porpoising abnormally bad at barefoot speed but we also had marginal water which didn't help either.

Gen II CC's have been run at well over 50MPH without the porpoising like you're getting at 41 and 42 MPH so something way more has changed then the weight of a tower and LH motor to cause it. Your issue has more to do with the overall hull shape and the distributed weight within that hull. Is it possible the shape of the hull shape may have changed when the floor and stringer system was worked on?
You put in a completely composite floor so how much does that weigh compared to a factory floor? Also is that a the factory gas tank or is it bigger? It would be really interesting to see what happens when you distribute weight fore or aft on the boat and with a full tank of gas vs. almost empty. If that experiment changes the drivability enough then we can help to determine the fix.
It might be something as easy as putting a couple of fat sacks under the bow or waiting to do your barefooting when you're under a half tank of gas or both.

When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2016 at 10:06am
Thanks guys. Ill start looking around and see which way makes sense, store bought or shop made. I have a buddy with a machine shop, the same guy who built my tower and does my prop work. Hes kinda grumpy though...
Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2016 at 10:17am
Hi Eddie, bow weight will help some. The decks may be a bit lighter than stock and there is no foam in the boat. The tank is factory 20 gallon. With two people and any fuel load I can get her to run flat up to about 45 if I do it gradually. Stomp on it and it bounces hard. In fact on the first run ever, without tower or interior it was bad. Put anybody in the back seat and its ugly over 35. This thing was beat to death when I got it. Bare, empty boat with the grid as rotten a corn cob so yeah, the hull may be out of shape.
But there is no fixing that as far as I can see from where I'm sitting.
I converted the battery box to a beer cooler and put the battery way under the bow. I am going to add a second battery in there and that may help some but its only about 50 lbs.
You drove it and know as well as I that I have about 15 mph of boat speed that I cant use. Hell you cant even hang onto the boom at 42.
To quote Winston Churchill: "Well hell boys, we gotta do something!" or maybe that was Patton..?
Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2016 at 10:21am
I understand the barefoot plates are intended to flatten the table but if you angle it down a tad it will definitely trim the bow down. I just hope it doesn't destroy the wakeboard wake. Cam would be bummed out.
Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2016 at 10:51am
John is right, as far as I can tell, the barefoot plate seems like it works in 2 ways:
1. Knocks down the prop wash a bit, changing the shape of the rooster (and thus, the table and wake shape).
2. Effectively adds a little hook to the hull (note all of Hw's references to installing at a slight down angle), effectively pushing the nose of the boat down. This spreads the weight of the boat over a larger surface, and makes the wake a bit smaller.

It is pretty common to hear that adding a "barefoot plate" slows a boat down incrementally, and that is due to reason #2 above. It would be unlikely to scrub any speed if installed flush.

I agree that a plate of this sort will likely help the bad behavior at moderate speeds. The boat isn't grossly overpowered, but do be careful about forcing the nose down too much when running upper 40's or better, it could lead to unpredictable behavior.

Agreed that something is amiss with the hull shape and/or weight distribution (engine placement?) as that hull is not known to porpoise at lower speeds (30's and low 40's), at least without a large aft load. I will disagree that the 2nd gen hull isn't known for bouncing at *any* speed, as it seems that varies a bit from hull to hull. I haven't seen one porpoise at anything less than upper 40's, but some will do so at WOT (Jackie Deens 75 is one such boat, it runs 51+ bone stock). Others are notorious nose-planters, like Alan's former (now the monohans) '81. Even a full load in back, which induces a mild porpoise in the upper 40's, is settled down to a steady ride as the nose plants above 50.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GlassSeeker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2016 at 4:08pm
Re:Sanger...it is a cavitation plate aka barefoot plate...Sanger has used them for decades...The plate I installed on my DX completely changes the wake and gets the boat on plane instantly. Sanger DX, DXII, SE all have the Delta pad...a big flat triangle ending at transom starting just behind the triple fins. The cav plate lines up with those hull characteristics to create a really well defined mostly flat wake. Strangely enough With the plate on my DX the wake is possibly better than a DXII wake and the changes to the DXII hull were to improve the barefoot wake. Go figure. Also we dont set our plate like Chuck does...we use a long straight edge and a 3/16 bit...set it and forget it.
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