Floor maintenance time

Making the molds to cast the Monothane would be more work than replacing the stringers! One thing I found out, is the molds need to be air tight. Next is the strength. Have you looked at any of the statistics? Compare it to Douglas Fir.

I don't feel a chop system is the way to go. To get the same strength out of it, I understand you need twice the build thickness compared to fiberglass cloths. It's the way cheap boats are made!!!

Graeme, "bite the bullet" and do a traditional job on the stringers.

I'm also going to speak nicely to the manager at work.

A section in the factory has a fibreglass spray m/c. Wondering if I replace the stringers then wheel the boat into work and get the full inside sprayed. Would save a lot of labour!

The m/c is the same as this:

UK1979 Your a star mate!

I'm going to try to lift the engine out in the next fortnight. (busy with boxing championships right now)

Once I get the engine out it might be easier to see just exactly what is required. Some clown has attempted a poor patch repair under the passenger seat stringer. So i've removed the old repair and got a small heater running in the garage to take the chill out the air.

Another question........ I can get my hands on Monothane SA90A Resin. I was thinking of making the extra floor supports i'll need from this. Anybody any experience of using this instead of wood?

gmars70970 wrote: I've now found a rotten section on one stringer 😢 Unless I can patch in a repair section it looks like I'll need to get the engine lifted out and do a full stringer job. Are there any standard drawings for a 1980 stringer or are all stringers different?

Not sure if someone on this site has any CAD renderings of the stringers for your boat, but I know many have used the old stringers as templates for new so long as the old ones were in good enough shape after removing them.

Post some pics of the rot if you can.

I'm really surprised how good the wood is. I thought it would have been really rotten in a 35yr old boat !
Possibly being a UK boat it hasn't spent as long in the water over the years due to our poor weather. The only rotten wood was the plywood under the single seat.

Woodwork is not my strong point, metal I'm fine with but wood not so much.
Is there a simple way (idiots guide) to make templates for the wooden strengthening batons from stringer to the sides of hull if I decide to go with no foam?
Am I possibly better (easier) just replacing the foam with new foam and rebuilding the boat as it was originally ?


SORRY FOR LAST PART, Currently reading previous posts on the Foam v No Foam debate

No turning back now!
The wood has all solid so far.

Ok, sounds like a plan to me.

I'll remove the rest of the foam today and tomorrow and see what the situation is from there.

Novice question........ probably been asked a thousand times........... does the foam need to be replaced ?

You've already got the floor up and I know that its not a fun job but if it were my boat I'd start removing ALL the foam so as to inspect the entire stringer system. A dry wall saw will cut thru it quickly. Why button it all up now and come back 2 years from now to start over again?

Take a hand saw or drywall saw and cut down to the hull against the stringer and remove a slug of foam approx 8 X 12 in a couple spots for an autopsy.
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Dig deeper. I just went thru the same scenario with my Mustang. Some water soaked foam on top BUT the major water and damage was against the hull. If I went this far I would at least take the foam up that contacts the main stringers and inspect that area. I think you will find more damage than you have.    Also check around the front lift ring bracket. I posted this week the hidden damage mine had.

I've finally put it off for as long as possible, it's time to remove the foam and stringers.
Really really really not looking forward to this.
Removed the seats & carpets this morning, time to dig into the foam and see what sort of mess is down there.
I'll post some pictures of what I find later 😢