62 Classic needs a new Velvet Drive

My transmission saga looks like it will be getting a little longer, so I opened a new thread.

Background:
Due to slipping under load, dirty neutral, oil leakage and bad oders, I knew my AS1-71C transmission needed to be rebuilt. After speaking to Jim (the owner) at length, I took it to Federal Marine Transmission in Countryside IL. Upon arrival, I was impressed. He has a small shop but it was neat and orderly with racks and racks of gear sets, cases, service parts, repurposed parts, etc. Jim also has a long history with marine transmissions and specializes in their repair.

He warned me that the orange seals tended to ruin input and output shafts and if that is the case, parts were in short supply. I also learned that all 71C transmissions are not equal. Mine was a very early one and likely original to the boat. It has a shorter input shaft and this part is no longer available. Turns out luck was not in my favor because my input shaft was seriously ground away where the seal runs on the shaft.

We took the trans down further. The pump was very worn with scoring on all mating surfaces. We pulled all the remaining parts that would come out of the front of the transmission. Everything had been well used and needed replacing.

Jim estimates the trans was never rebuilt based on the seals, thin paper gaskets and some internal parts that would have been changed to different materials during a later rebuild. He estimates the trans had about 3000 hours of use.

So, my transmission is beyond reasonable repair. I have three options - New, used rebuilt or used. New, we are looking at $2000+ with shipping. Both used rebuilt and used makes me very nervous unless I can verify the history. I really don't want to do this again in 5 years.

I throw this open to suggestions from the group. I really didn't expect a $2K repair on the old Classic this year.

Time for a Speedi sleeve!

Backside of the damper plate.

Current price on their web site is 1744.00,current catalog says 2937.00,might be worth a call. I'm now thinking the new one I saw on the Shamrock site with 50 hours on it for 400 was a steal---

Steve,
Check this drive plate (damper) out I think you could use your old adapter that bolts to the flywheel and then bolt the new drive plate to it.

Steve,
I have one more thought. The springs in a damper are off the shelf "die" springs. You may consider just replacing them. The color denotes the spring rate.
See the red springs at McMaster

This is weird, Pete. You are right, ebasicpower states 6.18" dia. The Barr web site says differently:


It says it is a BW part that is a replacement for the Barr part. I couldn't find info on the BW part yet.

Steve,
The easy part is drilling out the rivets. A good metal fabricator or metal stamper should have the capacity to stake new rivets in the assembly.

Steve,
A hydraulic press will work but the top and bottom staking tooling may be a problem. Notice the dimple in the middle? That's there to get some expansion to the ID's of the plates.

Let's go back to the replacing of the springs only. I can't fully see how they are retained. Does it look like the plates would need to be taken apart for removal? Or,could the R&R of the springs be done simply by compressing them?

The width of the slot in the backing plate and the top plate is smaller than the width of the spring. This keeps the springs from falling out. I can't see a way to compress the width of the spring to remove it through the top or bottom slots. As far as I can see, disassembly is the only option.

So Pete, do you have any sources for the rivets? Are they a special type with a special name to them?

Duane, if you have a moment, could you please link to the correct page at McMaster Carr for the rivets you've used (or just a part number would be fine).

RainDog wrote: Duane, if you have a moment, could you please link to the correct page at McMaster Carr for the rivets you've used (or just a part number would be fine).

Looks like a "Solid Rivet" is what you need. Just figure out the diameter, length, and head shape you need.   

hello raindog i have a complete engine and trans from a 62 or 63 correct craft classic all part are there but engine is stuck..it has been in dry storege for 5 yrs in my garage..750.00 call me if interested.dan 330-524-6983.ill try to get some numbars off it for you.engine block/trans

pardon, don't yet understand the scenario...

If your replacement trans will likely not have the short input shaft,

Why the bother to retain a deep hub dampner til you are certain it it needed with the longer iinput shaft of the new trans?