Engine won't start

Reasoning for putting #1 @ 1 is to minimize plug wire length (and a cleaner looking routing). As an engine manufacturer/marinizer I would think this is not a detail overlooked.

It has acted like it wants to start, and I had it running at one point, we'll as long as you held key to start and could dump ether/fuel in it, that's when I changed fuel pump then changed carb once new fuel pump was in because carb was leaking

Having just converted my 1981 Ski Nautique to a DUI electronic distributor yesterday I can sympathize with getting the distributor set correctly to get the initial start. Even though I thought I was being really careful to get it installed in the same position as the old prestolite, I was still off by enough to prevent it from starting right up.

Do you know what brand of EI is installed? If it's a Pertronix or the DUI, you should be running the full 12 volts to the distributor, so the ballast resistor should not be used. I would check that first. Running the reduced voltage to an EI can cause damage to them.

When you attempt to start it does it crank really hard? That could indicate that the timing is too far advanced. Something that helped me quite a bit is getting a timing light on it right from the start and having TDC marked on the balancer really clearly. Even without the engine running the timing light will still flash and give you a reading when cranking. At that point you should be able to get the timing close enough to run (if timing is the issue).

When you say it only tries to run when the key is turned on, are you getting voltage to the coil when the key is in the run position?

Hopefully some of this will help. I'm a long time lurker but couldn't resist trying to help out.

^^

When key is run position there is no voltage at coil only during cranking. Not sure on type of ei was done, I'm assuming pertronix. Not sure on distributor type, it is a crew down type cap. The resistor is not bypassed and I'm assuming the boat was running fine before it sat

If the coil gets power cranking but not running position it's a bad ignition switch. Seen it quite often. You let off the key when you hear it fire and it kills ignition power.

My solenoid only had 2 battery cables and one other stud wired labeled S. When I replaced solenoid I wired it same way, in your diagram it shows wire off I going to coil? Do I need to run another wire?

No, that confirms your ignition switch is likely bad.

I would find the wiring diagram for your year first and check your wiring first. It could be like Zack says but I wonder if the EI was installed and it went downhill since.Someone gave up and it sat? I sure seems these ei conversions cause more trouble than the points ever have

Wakerider81 wrote: When key is run position there is no voltage at coil only during cranking.

Clearly this is a problem.

Wakerider81 wrote: How many ohms should ballast resistor be?

yeah go back and read Zachs last response -- after you check the ignition post on the back of the switch you can start worrying about ballast resister ohms and what nots

Chris,
Those voltages are low. What are you getting at the battery?

Ahh now we're zeroing in on the problem. It wasn't mentioned that the switch was changed.
OP said the wiring was checked and good from dash back.
Hang in there we'll get it figured out.

With it wired correctly does that mean the boat is now starting?

Boat still not starting but ignition is wired properly. Still have low voltage at coil tho.only 5 volts with key in run position but drops to 3 during cranking, doesn't make sense to me. I have 12v at solenoid, 12v to resistor and 5v leaving resistor going to coil