Crankcase full of tan oil

That was a great idea to keep changing the oil. You got it flushed and each change removed the rust etc that was in there.   Glad it is running well.

MrMcD wrote: Glad it is running and sounds like it must be running well. I would never run my engine wide open longer than 15 to 30 seconds but that is me. If you had a major leak the crankcase would already be full of water. I would certainly change the oil again using a quality oil with protection for your camshaft. Diesel oil like Delo or Rotella offers great protection at low cost. It is available in 15-40 or 10-30. Then go run it and hope for the best. A small amount of water in your oil will boil off at engine temperatures, if you are still taking on water into the block it will turn the oil into a milkshake and will be very obvious. I am thinking you dodged a bullet on this engine. I have used both Diesel fuel and tranny fluid, ATF as a flush. Just to wash everything up, I install the Diesel or tranny fluid about 4 qts and run the engine at idle about 10 minutes then drain and reinstall motor oil. It will get an amazing amount of gunk out of an engine. There is no doubt you have rust in the block after all the internals were doused in water. Rust can work like an abrasive on your engine bearings and piston rings so a good flush might help save the engine although after 10 minutes wide open it may be past that point.

Ran it WOT for about 15 minutes today. I was only push it wide open for a few minutes at a time tops.

I ran a few more oil changes on it and now everything is coming out clear. Putting anything other than oil in a crankcase makes me feel weird. I've heard both stories of success and horror.

oops wrong post

jborzak wrote: Can I set up this Timmy T on a 04 SS210? Is it a kit or just by each piece? Unfortunately I had to many moments of need this year. Easier to repair at home.

the Timmy Tee is about $9 worth of parts available at your local Lowes store.   the Setup can be used on any boat as long as you install the T on the correct side of the cooling system.   find the water inlet (hull pickup) and somewhere between there and the transmission cooler, there should be a spot where you can cut the 1" cooling hose and splice in the T. sorry to hear that you've had problems!

Irydslow wrote: dabeastro wrote: Got the cast plugs put back in and changed the oil again after a few idle runs off a hose. Managed to replace the plugs by setting a jack as support under the oil pan and removing one motor mount at a time. This worked really well and was easier than I anticipated. I noted that the two plugs that were out had signs of prolonged failure, rust stains below the ports. Curious how you got the cast plugs back in? Noticed one of mine popped today as I fired up the boat for the first time for the season. Water pouring out of it. Hoping, like yourself, that is all that is wrong...

I had a 73 cobalt with around 3000 hours on a 188/888 ford motor. One season a freeze plug fell out after 40 years of use....

I just put a rubber plug back in. It was a little hard because of the placement... (working around motor mount). But worked for me for a few more years. Saw it on Craigslist 8 years later.

dabeastro wrote: Got the cast plugs put back in and changed the oil again after a few idle runs off a hose. Managed to replace the plugs by setting a jack as support under the oil pan and removing one motor mount at a time. This worked really well and was easier than I anticipated. I noted that the two plugs that were out had signs of prolonged failure, rust stains below the ports.

Curious how you got the cast plugs back in? Noticed one of mine popped today as I fired up the boat for the first time for the season. Water pouring out of it. Hoping, like yourself, that is all that is wrong...

Got the cast plugs put back in and changed the oil again after a few idle runs off a hose. Managed to replace the plugs by setting a jack as support under the oil pan and removing one motor mount at a time. This worked really well and was easier than I anticipated. I noted that the two plugs that were out had signs of prolonged failure, rust stains below the ports.

Today I chose to put the boat on the lake and run it a bit and verify that water was coming in (and to what extent) before I started taking things apart (had a buddy in another boat just in case).. Ran it for about an hour with at least 10 minutes wide open and 15 minutes at high rpm.. Checked the dipstick and the level was unchanged. Brought it home and drained the oil. Maybe a few tablespoons of lightish brown oil. Caught it and noted that it did not separate. Rest of the pan looked like it should. Just a bit darker than it went in. That was the second oil change after finding nearly a gallon of water in the crankcase.

Not sure I am in the clear just yet. Going to take it out tomorrow or Saturday and run it a few hours and do another drain and fill. So now my question is, where did all the water come from?!? Maybe I've got an internal leak somewhere, but based on what I saw today, it's gotta be pretty slow and I can hardly imagine how a gallon gets in there unless it went a very long time without an oil change. I've got another alternate theory to the block freezing. Perhaps the core plug came out and someone filled the bilge while running the boat. I've read that this can lead to lots of water entering the engine, but I'm not exactly sure how. Any thoughts?

I will still probably pull the exhaust manifolds and heads to assess the condition of the internals, but probably not until I run it for awhile, provided that I do not see any milky oil.

Don't blame me Pete there were many who figured that out before,I just took their advise and passed what I had found on mine

Why not pull those manifolds at the same time? It's a no-brainer if you ask me. If you see leaking manifolds you can be way ahead. Core plugs aren't causing the entry of water into the oil, but manifolds are the weak link according to Gary S--and he's already paved the road to the answer.

I think we all want to hear the cheer of victory and see you on the water.

NP, I've gotten way more help here than I've ever given, it's nice to be on the giving end
I hope this works as well for you as it did for me!

That would be nice if just manifolds. Very nice. You see there's hope here! If this all it is you should buy a powerball ticket.

Good points. I am actually the only mechanic I trust. I would rather go through it regardless.

I have not given up all hope that the freeze was not catastrophic to the block. I can't get at the boat again until next weekend. Will update once I do.

8122pbrainard wrote: Brad, Any update on the water issue? After seeing the popped core plug picture, I concur that that block froze. Maybe your father-in-law isn't as anal as you believe! By chance did he lend the boat out to a friend before the layup? BTW, hopefully you didn't purchase a deep cycle battery. You want a starting battery.

Matter of fact, the boat did go out as a loaner the last time it was out. Which probably led to it being put away wet. Starting battery installed.

tryathlete wrote: Alternatively buy a rebuilt long block and you won't have the rebuild to do.

I like that idea. I worry that dropping a salvage yard engine in will give you a summer of problems and frustration.

Pete, not sure the battery is his primary concern right now!

Don't forget to switch over marine fuel pump, alternator, & starter too.