correctcraft mustang 17 won't start

Gary
What volts are you getting to the coil? Sounds like you are just throwing parts at the problem without testing???

based on the suggestion to check coil.... I found write-up on checking resistance (inner, outer) and this seems reasonable with my ignition coil (2.8 and 8500 ohms). but, I can't measure any voltage at the coil. I checked with key in 'on' position but without trying to start the engine. not sure if that is the right approach.... there is 12.8 volts at the terminals at the rear of the engine.

Post mortem advice for folks that don't play with engines a lot--do your parts replacements individually or one at a time. In between replacements just give the engine a start at least.

After layup, no-start is common but best to stick to advice above and not go gangbusters rand replace everything.

Start with firing order. Make sure distributor cap is not 180 degrees off by pulling number one spark plug, and distributor cap and make sure piston is close to top Dead center when rotor in distributor is pointing at #1 wire. If you can put your thumb over the open spark plug hole, when the piston is heading up on the compression stroke you'll feel the pressure on your thumb. Once you get to that point you simply check each wire in the direction the rotor is moving and verify it is in the correct order. Maybe you were already sure of that but it's a common mistake.

Once that's all checked, maybe make sure your distributor points are opening to the correct gap with a feeler gauge--or better yet, hook up a dwell meter and verify the number of degrees the points are staying open.

U will persevere.

garykocis wrote: back to an early posting/question... "What volts are you getting to the coil? " I have a reading of 2.9 volts at either post on the coil. that is, either post to ground reads 2.9 volts. I also get 2.9 volt reading at the resistor.

Gary,
That 2.9 is bad. When checking the volts to the coil, disconnect the - wire from the coil to the distributor and then with the ignition switch on, check between the + to the coil and the engine block. That will be the resisted volts and should be around 9. If you still get the low 2.9, see what to get on the resistor + from the ignition switch. That should be the nominal 12. If bad there, get a reading at the ignition switch itself booth on the I terminal (ignition feed) and the B terminal is the + feed. If you don't have the 12 at the switch, keep going all the way back to the battery.