Bent Strut

Hey folks,
1981 ski nautique

I removed my propeller shaft today, the new ARE is being shipped. Found my strut has a pretty good twist. Bearing worn on opposite sides front to back. I am going to look around for a pro to straighten but has anyone been sucessful in fixing a strut at home? I've got a big vice, the old shaft, and some heat...seems like this might be something that could be done.

If someone has one laying around let me know. After the cost of the shaft, my wife is going to be less than thrilled about another $500 for a new strut ( if even available).   Thanks, Dan

Dan,
Gary has a very valid point regarding how the strut was mounted. Take a real close look at it before condemning the strut. If it is bent/twisted, give the straightening it yourself a try. I've known guys who have straightened them while they were still attached to the hull!! A big 48" pipe wrench and a cheater pipe! Not something I would recommend but it's been done.

I can see the twist in the casting. It is clearly damaged. I hit a rock last year. I got the prop fixed but it was not quite right since. Seems to be getting worse, Probably the bearing wearing. Dan

Just my 2 cents.......... I never tried straightening the strut myself after a friend drove the 88' too close to shore and bent it, the prop and the shaft after trying to grind a stump with my prop. years ago. I just bought a new pricey one and replaced it and the shaft and had the prop refurbished. ....... I bent the strut and prop on the 72 last summer and sent both struts to Delta Props. They were able to straighten both and installed a new cutless bearing ( at no cost as I pushed the old ones out). They didn't charge me much to do it and I was back on the water in the 72 in 2 weeks. That's why we all need 2 CC's....Ya gotta have a spare!

MrMcD wrote: The old prop shaft could work as a 60 inch bar to bend your strut. Good Luck

This: Leave it in place and twist it back. Its easier than many think. Because of my boating venue I have become quite proficient at the process. I use a 15" crescent wrench and cheater pipe. But if I had an old shaft it would be my first choice. Put a new bearing in it and twist it back until the shaft is perfectly centered. (cold).

My first choice is to get the pro to straighten the strut out. I'll report back whether successful or not to find "a guy". If not, I'll give it a try. Does the forum's senior engineer (Peter) recommend heat? I could get the whole casting to 500 in the oven. Otherwise its a torch. Not sure if it much matters, its a big chunk of metal!

Dropped the strut off at Hale Propeller in Old Saybrook, CT.    Based on what I saw on the shelf, I hope their equipment works on "1"! There were bent struts that I doubt I could lift! Will report back. Dan

Isn't there a prop and strut place in Tampa that all the local shops send their stuff too? Maybe Admirals?

baitkiller wrote: MrMcD wrote: The old prop shaft could work as a 60 inch bar to bend your strut. Good Luck This: Leave it in place and twist it back. Its easier than many think. Because of my boating venue I have become quite proficient at the process. I use a 15" crescent wrench and cheater pipe. But if I had an old shaft it would be my first choice. Put a new bearing in it and twist it back until the shaft is perfectly centered. (cold).

I am inclined to try this first. So leave everything in place including the shaft, and just twist it back? Failing that, what is the cost to send the old one out for repairs vs. $350 new at Skidim?

Orlando76 wrote: It seems to me I recall $75? Maybe that's for them to install new cutlass. Either way their prices seemed fair and the turn around time was quick enough even with shipping it was reasonable enough to ship it vs drive there.

Thanks Todd,
I called them and they said it was a function of shop time and said anywhere from $85 to $120ish. They also had a pickup and delivery from my local marina (I think you went there to look at a boat in Winter Haven). I should have it back Tuesday with the bearings installed.

Can you see .003" by eye?

Hollywood wrote: Can you see .003" by eye?

Uh...............yes.................can't you? Oh. I forgot you did not get the Bionic Man treatment.

HF dial indicators will probably work for our applications. However, if you take a bit of time and check Craigslist, you can usually find a used Starrett for slightly more. They're useful for a ton of different projects. The difference between a proper US made and Chinese-ium is the Starrett doesn't get harder to depress as deflection increases. Not critical in our projects, but nice. I notice a difference between my Grizzly and Starrett

Tom make sure to check runout just in front of the strut, just behind the strut, and on the actual taper where the prop attaches. These were the spots I noticed the most runout on the 2 shafts I tested. The promo shaft was straight as an arrow the entire length until the taper. Then it was waaaaaaaay out.

Give me a call if you need help.

Chris

OK, I will check it Tuesday and let you guys know. If worse comes to worse, I guess I will get an ARE shaft.