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    Posted: August-09-2016 at 11:54pm
2nd thread of my ccf career, I'm still struggling with this boat, I love having the thing and being on the water but geeze it's becoming frustrating.

So what I'm dealing with now is basically the boat won't run IN GEAR above 1200 or so rpm. It seems like it's bogging down and will occasionally die if I don't return to neutral quick enough. It Started out great today, I've got the idle issue almost completely dialed in and correct (http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39332&title=83-351-stalls-in-idle-gear). We got on the water this evening and pulled through the long no wake zone at my preferred ramp, we then took off and ran great for 3-5 minutes and all on its own, it was like I pulled the throttle down toward neutral, slowing the boat and dropping the rpm.

Now I had A similar episode Friday, btwn then and tonight I put in a new fuel pump and filter. And changed oil, probably out of paranoia that the diaphragm in the pump had failed and leaked gas into the oil.

The boat is currently running like a champ in idle gear and seemingly purrs throughout the rpm range while not in gear.

I read that a hose or tube in the fuel tank can become clogged and should also be cleaned. Can anyone help me with info on this???

Are there any other things I should check or look at?

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-09-2016 at 11:58pm
Trevor,
On the top of the tank where the fuel line attaches is the anti siphon valve. It looks like a hose barb fitting. Remove it and see if it's clear.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 12:16am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Trevor,
On the top of the tank where the fuel line attaches is the anti siphon valve. It looks like a hose barb fitting. Remove it and see if it's clear.


Thanks for the info. I'll be working on that first thing Thursday.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 1:00am
Also could be clogged tank vent. You can easily test for this by leaving gas cap a little loose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 1:37am
Originally posted by Tfreeman Tfreeman wrote:


I read that a hose or tube in the fuel tank can become clogged and should also be cleaned. Can anyone help me with info on this???

Thanks


The tube that picks up the fuel out of the tank. Your problem sounds really similar to what I experienced with mine, even worse probably.
I pulled out that tube (you can do that through the vents on the back, no need to pull the tank out) and cleaned it with carb cleaner, let it soak, gently hit it. There's a filter in there, in my case the tube got clogged with dirt, hairs, even a dead bug.
Easy fix that worked wonders!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 9:54am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Also could be clogged tank vent. You can easily test for this by leaving gas cap a little loose.



I forgot to mention this. I went as far as completely removing the cap and saw no change.


Originally posted by TRIP TRIP wrote:

Originally posted by Tfreeman Tfreeman wrote:


I read that a hose or tube in the fuel tank can become clogged and should also be cleaned. Can anyone help me with info on this???

Thanks


The tube that picks up the fuel out of the tank. Your problem sounds really similar to what I experienced with mine, even worse probably.
I pulled out that tube (you can do that through the vents on the back, no need to pull the tank out) and cleaned it with carb cleaner, let it soak, gently hit it. There's a filter in there, in my case the tube got clogged with dirt, hairs, even a dead bug.
Easy fix that worked wonders!


Hopefully that's the cure, I'll be working on it in the morning.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 12:16pm
You could:

Diagnose this as a fuel starvation problem first. Take the motorbox and flame arrestor off. Go do your normal thing and when it starts bogging down look down the carb to see if you're getting gas when throttling.

If you are in fact not getting fuel out the boosters start working backwards to the tank incorporating each component in the fuel system one by one. Run off a gas can starting at the pump, then after the filter/separator, then line to tank, Certainly starting with a clean pick up tube and anti siphon valve is recommended. That's good maintenance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 1:01pm
Trip's thread

The link above is to Trip's thread which eventually led him to the fuel pickup tube in the tank.

Give it a read

Hook up a temporary can to your fuel pump suction and if the boat runs good you've narrowed down your problem to something before the pump like the fuel line, the pickup tube/antisiphon valve, or a filter if there's one in the suction line.

It's easy to do, Trip eventually did it and figured out where his problem was cause it ran good on the temporary can.

Like Hollywood said "go to the can" It'll tell you a lot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 5:02pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

You could:

Diagnose this as a fuel starvation problem first. Take the motorbox and flame arrestor off. Go do your normal thing and when it starts bogging down look down the carb to see if you're getting gas when throttling.

If you are in fact not getting fuel out the boosters start working backwards to the tank incorporating each component in the fuel system one by one. Run off a gas can starting at the pump, then after the filter/separator, then line to tank, Certainly starting with a clean pick up tube and anti siphon valve is recommended. That's good maintenance.


I forgot to mention that as well. So yesterday evening while still on the water I removed the flame arrestor and had the wife give some throttle. According to my best guess, as I have nothing to compare it to, the spray from the accelerator pump looks like it changed from a V shaped spray (like when the motor isn't running) to more of a light mist. In my opinion it looked like a lack of fuel, but I am not completely sure with my lack of experience.

I almost believe I can pull the anti syphon tube and clean it and head to the water for a test, of course I would bring a can to test if it's still acting up, I think that would end up being more efficient then 2 separate trips for potentially the same thing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 5:04pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Trip's thread

The link above is to Trip's thread which eventually led him to the fuel pickup tube in the tank.

Give it a read

Hook up a temporary can to your fuel pump suction and if the boat runs good you've narrowed down your problem to something before the pump like the fuel line, the pickup tube/antisiphon valve, or a filter if there's one in the suction line.

It's easy to do, Trip eventually did it and figured out where his problem was cause it ran good on the temporary can.

Like Hollywood said "go to the can" It'll tell you a lot.


Thanks for the info, I wish I'd had a can with me last night. I will be checking with the can also
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 5:05pm
Fuel delivery is definitely going to look different running vs not running.

Next time it bogs down on you shut it off and pump the throttle and again compare stream.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 6:13pm
If the anti-siphon is plugged up it should be pretty obvious, if it is clean and free of debris move on to HW's plan B
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 6:19pm
Hollwood is Plan B
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 6:21pm
More like D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 6:24pm
Check the inlet screen at the carb first. I've experienced several plugged anti siphons but they would always fill the fuel bowl during low rpm operation- it would only run out of gas at sustained higher throttle (flow can't keep up with demand). Even significantly clogged valves acted this way- they really only catch very large particles.

The fuel inlet screen at the carb is very fine though- and if plugged can significantly limit filling of the bowls to the point where any throttle input results in a stall. So I'd start there.

I also would not rule out ignition- what do you have for an ignition set up? Info on dizzy and internals to wires, cool, plugs and wires please.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 6:40pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

what do you have for an ignition set up? Info on dizzy and internals to .

Probably an EI conversion!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 6:49pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Check the inlet screen at the carb first. I've experienced several plugged anti siphons but they would always fill the fuel bowl during low rpm operation- it would only run out of gas at sustained higher throttle (flow can't keep up with demand). Even significantly clogged valves acted this way- they really only catch very large particles.

The fuel inlet screen at the carb is very fine though- and if plugged can significantly limit filling of the bowls to the point where any throttle input results in a stall. So I'd start there.

I also would not rule out ignition- what do you have for an ignition set up? Info on dizzy and internals to wires, cool, plugs and wires please.


The previous owner did some sort of electric ignition. I've got no clue on the specifics he put in, but the cap has clean contacts.

I had some carb issues, that resulted in me working through a rebuild, vacuum leak, adjustment etc to solve a poor idle, but the boat ran descent throughout that time frame above idle speeds, I guess at the point that the mixtures over came the vacuum leak, anyway, I seemingly had that squared away and then this started.

I will put the inlet screen on the Check list.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2016 at 8:05pm
Another possibility: the rubber fuel line between tank & separator can degrade internally.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2016 at 7:53pm
Well, I have no real update, I did not make it to the water today for a test, I will head out for that tomorrow first thing. Today I checked the tank vent and anti syphon tube, found nothing remarkable on either, cleaned them for good measure. I saw a little debris in the tank so I went ahead and pulled it, cleaned that also. I ran a temporary fuel line from the strainer back to use for checking purposes. I checked the carb screen. It appeared clean, but cleaned it anyway. While in that area, the fuel hose btwn the pump and carb had a couple of slight kinks in it. I know it's a replacement hose, not sure if it's factory length, style, size, or routed correctly. Either way, I pulled it out and routed in a way to avoid the kinks. Also while the supply line was unhooked, I blew it out with my air compressor.

I did notice a little resistance and then has erupted out of the other end and stopped when it met the Bimini top. I was not able to locate a clump of debris or anything to confirm it was clogged, but I am certain the fuel line is clear in both directions.

I guess tomorrow the only other thing that could starve the motor would be if I over adjusted the float in the carb. Other than that I guess I'll have to get onboard with the possibility that the problem is not fuel related.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-12-2016 at 11:44am
Originally posted by Tfreeman Tfreeman wrote:

While in that area, the fuel hose btwn the pump and carb had a couple of slight kinks in it. I know it's a replacement hose, not sure if it's factory length, style, size, or routed correctly.

This sounds like a potential hazard, take a closer look at that hose.

FEDERAL LAW:
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Hoses and connections.
(a) Each hose used between the fuel pump and the carburetor must be
“USCG Type A1” hose.
http://uscgboating.org/regulations/assets/builders-handbook/FUELSYSTEM1.pdf
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-12-2016 at 3:10pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Originally posted by Tfreeman Tfreeman wrote:

While in that area, the fuel hose btwn the pump and carb had a couple of slight kinks in it. I know it's a replacement hose, not sure if it's factory length, style, size, or routed correctly.

This sounds like a potential hazard, take a closer look at that hose.

FEDERAL LAW:
183.558
Hoses and connections.
(a) Each hose used between the fuel pump and the carburetor must be
“USCG Type A1” hose.
http://uscgboating.org/regulations/assets/builders-handbook/FUELSYSTEM1.pdf


It is a coastguard approved hose, manufacture date of 2004 or 2008 can't remember, that's how I know it is a replacement. But the rest holds true, idk if he slapped in some hose or if it is a direct replacement
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-12-2016 at 3:17pm
I am currently on the water testing. I had the same symptoms while hooked up as normal. So far the best it has acted on the can test is when bypassing my new fuel filter. I'm going to do more testing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-12-2016 at 3:41pm
Have we ruled out a weak fuel pump yet? Have you measured pressure?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-12-2016 at 8:15pm
It's brand new, replaced it tuesday



I would like to hear more about looking at the ignition. I don't know where to start, following the precious owners unknown work or knowledge.

After today I'm fairly certain it's not the fueling system, unless the float isn't adjusted quite right and if it's even possible, not giving me enough fuel at higher rpm. Otherwise out of the big 3 ingredients needed sparks about all that's left.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-12-2016 at 8:39pm
Here is a video of my vacuum guage from today, if someone can guess better than I can.

https://youtu.be/rBmZzlEdcUY
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-15-2016 at 3:11pm
I was out testing today, trying to check on some of the ignition components. I double checked my timing, set at 9* I marked the location with a sharpie. After idling out to the lake Ian's having the same symptoms, I have noticed my idle is inconsistent according to my tach, but mainly my TIMING WILL NOT STAY SET.

I checked and double checked, re set the timing, which threw off my sharpie mark, noticed a difference in the idle, went back to the dock and checked it again and at idle the timing self changed to 19* or so, and the idle increased some. I turned the idle screw down, re checked the timing and noticed almost no change.

I'm almost guessing the distributor, may be the problem?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-15-2016 at 3:33pm
Trevor,
With the changes you are getting in the timing, it does sound like you may have a issue with the distributor. If you haven't checked, make sure the advance mechanism if free to move. Pull the point plate and lube the flyweights. Check the springs to make sure they aren't broken. Don't worry about them being loose. In the retarded timing position, they are loose.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-15-2016 at 4:26pm
here is what I'm looking at. Also it appears the previous owner installed pertronix ignitor electric ignition.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-15-2016 at 5:51pm
Inside the distributor, I have found two attached springs that are activated(I guess) by the fly weights, but they are not the same springs. I am assuming this is incorrect.

Also in the caked on grease in the bottom of the housing I found pieces of a spring that are thin like one of the installed springs. I'm guessing it was broken and replaced with a different spring in the past.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-15-2016 at 6:30pm
Originally posted by Tfreeman Tfreeman wrote:

Inside the distributor, I have found two attached springs that are activated(I guess) by the fly weights, but they are not the same springs. I am assuming this is incorrect.

Also in the caked on grease in the bottom of the housing I found pieces of a spring that are thin like one of the installed springs. I'm guessing it was broken and replaced with a different spring in the past.


The springs control the rate at which the flyweights are flung outward and work against the 2 slots in the cam.

The little one breaks a lot easier since it's thinner and always has some tension on it when the engine is running, the big one is only along for the ride till about 2500 rpm or so then it has tension on it.

Speaking of the 2 slots in the cam, in your picture they look pretty worn at the far end which would lead to erratic movement of the weights and erratic timing but not really at idle.. Maybe it's only the picture.

Your timing changes could be like a case of what came first the chicken or the egg.

If it's idling at 600 one time and then at say 1200 another time the timing will be more advanced at 1200 because of the flyweights. Now did the carburetor cause the idle to hang up, maybe due to a weak return spring or a binding shaft which then makes the timing more advanced due to the speed. Or maybe dirty needle/seat or float adjustment

I've seen the slots worn worse than yours and the boat has run decently still

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