Ignition System issues

Walter,
Better get the VOM out and find out why you are getting power to the starter. I'd first check for 12 volts from the ignition key switch going to the coil on the start relay (solenoid). Then Ohm out the contacts in the start relay to see if they are welded together. This occurs when you aren't getting the volts to the starter causing a high amp (Ohms law) condition the start relay can't handle. Causes for low voltage can be bad battery (have it load tested), bad battery cables, bad/dirty battery terminals and never use a deep cycle for starting. Report back with what you find.

Welcome to CCfan, The group will get you going again!

Walter,
Since the starter is cranking when you hook up the battery, it's getting power and I'd say it's via the start relay. Since you mention the ignition switch isn't connected, then the relay isn't energized so the contacts inside the relay must be welded together. Ohming them is simply a confirmation that they are closed/welded. You can do the same thing with a battery powered test light. I just recommend the VOM since there may be other tests for actual voltages that can be done. The big cables on the big posts on the relay are connected to the internal contacts. That's where you want to test. Get that meter out of the box and read the directions! Besides the boat, you can use it on the car and the house.

wjhogan wrote: Thanks for the information. Have the start relay in the car to go home to test Thanks Walter

Do be aware that sometimes the contacts will break lose after being welded together. When you test it, and if it shows infinity (open contacts) then I suggest energizing the coil to close the contacts. You can use a battery charger or some small jumpers to a battery. The negative will be the body of the relay and the positive will be the small terminal. When energized, Ohm between the big terminals. You should get a near zero Ohm reading. If not, then the contacts are burnt.

I see in your profile that you listed wood boats as an interest. Are you a ACBS member? What wood boat(s) do you have?

Hope it is ok to put on this site. As a newbie, I do not want to get off on the wrong start. Promise not to make a habit of it.
Boats that I have. If my wife was answering "toooooooooo many" would be the reply.
Not really a lot but quite rare is more fitting.
1. .I started with a 1937 17" Chris Craft Deluxe runabout all original except for the upholstery and have re-varnished the sides/decks and repainted the bottom.. Still in use and have owned since 1978.

2. In 1985 I acquired an pre 1900 15" Atlantic Sea Skiff. I bought it from the original owner who 85 at the time and stated the boat was in her family before she was born which is why I an not sure of the year. Hull was in excellent shape as it was in storage since pre 1940. Original engine had been removed and replaced with a model T but that also had been removed. I kept it in storage in hopes I could find literature and an engine. I was able to confirm it was built by the Atlantic Boat Works in Amesbury Mass. Began looking in earnest in 2001 when I relocated to Cooperstown, NY and Old Marine Engine website connected with a collector who became a good friend and he located a 1907 4 HP engine built by the Atlantic Boat Works in Amesbury which we have had running. Needs some additional fine tuning but otherwise a nice engine. I am now finally doing the restoration.
3. In Nov of 2015, I acquired a 30" G E & P (Gas Engine and Power Co) Naphtha Launch "Susquehanna" built I believe in 1898 although there is a photograph dated 1895 that identifies this boat. However because of my research I am questioning the date of the photograph. This boat was originally on Lake Otsego here in Cooperstown and I have newspaper accounts of it being brought here from the G E & P co. in NYC by the Bower's family in 1898 and additional newspaper articles tracing it up the 1970's when it was sold as salvage and moved to the finger lakes where it was put in storage until I bought it. How I learned of this boat and its acquisition is a story in its self. which relates back my friend from the Old Marine Engine website.
This boat is to begin restoration next month. Again has an excellent hull and obviously no Naphtha engine as they are pretty much non existent. I do the 1930's Grey Marine that was in it.
4. 1930's 18" Old Town Flat Back canoe with sponsons. Needs restoration and in storage.
5. Late 1960's Wooden Sunfish Sailboat. Very good condition. Have not had it in the water for a few years as it needs some paint.
6. I have to include my 1983 Ski Nautique which I have owned since 1994. It has been a dream boat that in all these years I replaced the Carburetor and Drive Shaft and no other maintenance until this electrical issue. Even the carburetor probably wasn't needed but it giving me a little trouble on starting and because they can be so temperamental it was quicker and easier to just go buy one. I still have the original however.
Walter.
    

Pete,
When you say the small post on the solenoid do you mean the S post ??

I also learned I could have clicked on your name/picture to provide you my boat information so will keep my post to CC issues in the future.
Walter.

wjhogan wrote: Pete, When you say the small post on the solenoid do you mean the S post ?? Walter.

Yes, the small S post is the + connection to the coil (electromagnet) that pulls in the contacts.

Keep reading those instructions and using the meter. I think you will find it to be a very handy tool and then come to realize it shouldn't have been in the box unused all those years!

Here's a basic wiring diagram:

It's out of one of the manuals in the sites reference section.

The NSS (neutral safety switch) on the trans isn't shown on the diagram. Yes, the other white wire you see on the NSS, goes forward to the ignition key switch. It should be connected to the S terminal on the switch. The NSS simply prevents engine cranking if the trans isn't in neutral. So, the NSS is only closed when the trans is in neutral.

Pete,
So one white wire from the NSS goes to the S post on the Selenoid and the other going through the harness goes to the S post on the Ignition switch.
The question I have does the white wire go directly to the Ignition S Post or to the fuse on the dash and then to the Ignition switch ??
Thanks Walter

When you say next week you will be up there, do you mean Cooperstown or Caroga Lake. ??
We will be at Caroga lake labor day weekend.
Walter

Plus, you found out the VOM was worth taking out of the box and reading the instructions! Now, the next step is to use it on the house wiring if something goes out. You'll amaze your wife!