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1972 SN Promo Project

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63 Skier View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 10:29am
Very cool project, congrats!

Until you know what that noise is, you probably shouldn't turn over the engine with the starter. You could pull the transmission now, set the engine back down on the motor mounts (alignment won't matter), and turn it with the breaker bar again to see if the noise is gone (likely). If it's gone, I'd suggest an oil change, then leave the spark plugs out and spin the engine quite a few times by hand or with the starter to get some oil flow. It will make a bit of a mess with the mystery oil spitting out the plug holes. If all sounds good then you can replace plugs and do a compression test, or even see if you can start it up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 10:37am
I like the videos a lot… with photo bucket almost always inoperable getting pictures on this site has become just about impossible for me to handle. What are you using for a camera? I would start with 220 dry on that motor box... once you see a bit of color return you can move to wetsanding. You might not have enough gel to work with but yellow aint going to cut it anyway… you would need to regel or cover in vinyl if you can’t find some orange under there.
That transmission has a square head on a threaded plug on the top, back, port side. You unscrew it and there is a dip stick attached. That transmission is the least of your worries… readily available and rebuildable if needed.
The engine looks so far so good. I don’t know that I would turn it over with the starter until you determine the source of the noise or it goes away though. Continue as you have been but now that you have the plugs removed I would consider priming oil through the engine by whatever black magic chyrsler guys do that ( pull the distributor and use a long screwdriver bit on a drill perhaps?) and then continue to roll it over by hand until it gets smooth, relatively easy, and you see all valves moving up and down. If it still makes noise at that point remove the transmission, including starter, and bell housing/damper and see if it goes away. Pete might be on the right track in that you have the output shaft of the transmission stuck to the damper.. in which case use the hole in the bellhousing where the starter mounts to remove the bolts holding the damper to the flywheel so you can separate the engine and the transmission.
Bottom paint sucks… and yours does look to be covering up some cracks in the gelcote… however those cracks might not be that big and noticeable once wetsanded and buffed.   Be ready to throw anything that works at that stuff.. I have used chemical strippers available at lowes.. and they do bubble up and make a certain amount removable… have plenty of plastic scrapers available to get it off when its wet as it hardens back up if you leave it too long. Once I have gotten it down to a certain patchy thinness sometimes its best to just remove the rest with acetone and Teflon pan scrubbys… still a chemical mess. And even then some will just have to be sanded likely … wear your PPE.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 12:56pm
Chris,

Pull the starter out and turn it over with the breaker bar and see if the noise goes away. could be stuck partially extended jumping along the flywheel gear teeth.

Pete's idea sounds ok but to strip the splines would take some serious force. I would imagine if it is the damper the hub/springs are broken away and spinning which would be more likely than splines on the trans or the damper being stripped.

Like Joe said prime the pump. This is a little tougher on a Chrysler of any sort because you will need to remove the distributor drive gear/oil pump shaft. Chrysler distributors do not have a gear on the distributor shaft itself. The oil pump drive is female and requires a male hex insert (easiest probably to get a junk dizzy drive gear and make your own tool or buy a tool online).

To remove the Dizzy drive gear use a big screwdriver. I think you need to rotate it Counter Clockwise if memory serves me and it will come up out of the cam gear. It is sort of a PITA to get out without the intake off so pick up a 90 degree pick tool that is long enough to get under the gear to help you lift it out.

Also, you'll know when the pump is primed enough when you see oil start to come out under the rocker arm shaft onto the rockers. Chrysler motors put a good amount of oil up there so it should be easy to see.

Getting the gear/shaft back in place is frustrating. You will need to move the pump drive in small increments with your priming tool. until you get it lined up properly that the gear will drop in and properly seat into the cam gear.

Hope this is helpful.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 1:03pm
Spending a little more money and buying one will serve you because a straight hex shaft could mess up the distributor shaft bushing in the block.

Also, don't go full throttle on your drill if you want it to live and use a cord in wall rather than battery, oil pump priming really destroys drills quickly.

Oil pump tool
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 1:31pm
I just re-read some of the thread, missed the part about it sitting for decades without running. Yes, definitely need to prime it first. Good info Zach, I didn't realize it was that involved with the Chrysler.

I've used a half inch Milwaukee corded drill and surprises me how much torque it takes to turn an oil pump! Really have to brace the drill to keep it from twisting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fanofccfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 5:48pm
Nice project. I also like the videos. Great work
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 6:26pm
Originally posted by Mojo Mojo wrote:

Pylon looks original. Usually white in color or just polished.
The doghouse will be a challenge, but wet sanding will be the only way to try and bring back the orange.
No, they wouldn't have had the swim platform on the back of that boat. Would have been stairs or nothing on the transom


I figured that was the case with the platforms. However, I don't see any deck holes where a latter would have previously been mounted. So I guess the answer is that originally it had nothing. I think I am going to do one un-original thing which is to copy the other promos and source a teak platform
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 6:32pm
After reading the posts about priming the engine oil it started getting me thinking about the future of the engine. I'm totally willing to do it and prime the oil. however, given the general condition of the engine and the fact that it's missing two freeze plugs, is it worth doing this before I pull the engine apart for inspection?

I'm not opposed to doing the work, but do you think A compression test is worth it even if the engine has to get torn apart for inspection? I'm not being a smart a$$ here, I'm just asking lol.

Zach, I ordered the part that you suggested just because it seems like a good idea to have regardless.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 6:38pm
Chris,
If you are planning on rebuilding the engine, your time may be better spent on tearing it down rather than trying to get it running?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 6:50pm
Why rebuild it if it'll run with some TLC? Get it spinning and do a compression test.

Every promo (including ours) that I've seen in person has a platform that someone added after the fact. Never seen one with evidence of having had a ladder. I hate it. Removing the platform is a PITA but I'd consider it nonetheless. I would never add one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 6:51pm
So you have one to sell?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 6:57pm
I agree with Tim 100%. Ditch the platform!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 7:01pm
I checked again... I wrote it right the first time.
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Removing the platform is a PITA but I'd consider it nonetheless.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 7:04pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

So you have one to sell?


I'll totally buy it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2016 at 7:11pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

So you have one to sell?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2016 at 9:48am
I'll get to the boat in Friday and try to accomplish the following:

1. Remove starter and see if noise persists.
2. Varify the trans is in neutral!
3. Disconnect the alternator and water pump.
4. Oil change............I'm assuming this is a flat tappet engine and VR1 is recommended?
5. If the priming tool arrives, prime oil system and spin engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2016 at 10:10am
Flat tappet for sure. Chrysler didn't put roller cams in LA engines until about 1988 ish.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2016 at 10:18am
Originally posted by Frankenotter Frankenotter wrote:


1. Remove starter and see if noise persists.
2. Varify the trans is in neutral!.

Chris,
If you are verifying the trans is in neutral to find that noise, the shift lever position doesn't matter. Without the engine running, there isn't any hydraulic pressure developed by the trans pump to engage ether the forward or reverse clutch packs.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2016 at 1:56pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Frankenotter Frankenotter wrote:


1. Remove starter and see if noise persists.
2. Varify the trans is in neutral!.

Chris,
If you are verifying the trans is in neutral to find that noise, the shift lever position doesn't matter. Without the engine running, there isn't any hydraulic pressure developed by the trans pump to engage ether the forward or reverse clutch packs.


I kinda figured that, but I noticed the shift cable was frozen into the forward position. I see what your saying though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FamilyManCCF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2016 at 3:58pm
Cool Project and cool thread! I really like the videos. Boat looks pretty complete. The platform does look like it is off a MasterCraft. Like the others suggested, I would remove it. If you want to restore it to period correct I wouldn't put one back on but if you are going to use the boat as a ski tug, I would look for teak platform. Very excited to see updates! Good luck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 10:50am
Originally posted by FamilyManCCF FamilyManCCF wrote:

Cool Project and cool thread! I really like the videos. Boat looks pretty complete. The platform does look like it is off a MasterCraft. Like the others suggested, I would remove it. If you want to restore it to period correct I wouldn't put one back on but if you are going to use the boat as a ski tug, I would look for teak platform. Very excited to see updates! Good luck!



Just hang a rope ladder off the back. It will look all tree houseish and no holes in the boat!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 11:43am
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Originally posted by FamilyManCCF FamilyManCCF wrote:

Cool Project and cool thread! I really like the videos. Boat looks pretty complete. The platform does look like it is off a MasterCraft. Like the others suggested, I would remove it. If you want to restore it to period correct I wouldn't put one back on but if you are going to use the boat as a ski tug, I would look for teak platform. Very excited to see updates! Good luck!



Just hang a rope ladder off the back. It will look all tree houseish and no holes in the boat!

Zach,
+1!!! I'm with you keeping it original! Swim platform?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 11:49am
I think the swim platform should match the tower. Black anodized tower, go with black fiberglass platform. Chrome tower, go with teak platform. Also keep in mind teak is less likely to scuff up the tube.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mojo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 12:09pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

I think the swim platform should match the tower. Black anodized tower, go with black fiberglass platform. Chrome tower, go with teak platform. Also keep in mind teak is less likely to scuff up the tube.


Bwahahaha
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 12:17pm
Which platform makes a better tree bumper, fiberglass or teak?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mojo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 12:21pm
I heard fiberglass works pretty well....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 12:31pm
Pretty sure the fiberglass platform will minimize damage to the hull from said tree impact, but will pretty much be destroyed. With the teak, I believe you would suffer significant hull damage but might be left with a platform that could be repaired. Either way you are going to have hull damage so maybe the teak is the way to go!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 12:37pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Which platform makes a better tree bumper, fiberglass or teak?

Reading between the lines, looks like we need to find a set of extended towing mirrors for a Cadillac to put in Hollywood's stocking this year.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 12:46pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Which platform makes a better tree bumper, fiberglass or teak?

Reading between the lines, looks like we need to find a set of extended towing mirrors for a Cadillac to put in Hollywood's stocking this year.


Actually it is related to another member (who happens to also be from the Northern IL area) allowing his trailer and Nautique to take an unattended "stroll" through the forest...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2016 at 1:07pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

I think the swim platform should match the tower. Black anodized tower, go with black fiberglass platform. Chrome tower, go with teak platform. Also keep in mind teak is less likely to scuff up the tube.


I was thinking that I would try to find either an orange tower or one that I could Piant orange. The platform will go based on what size orange underwater transom lights come in. Maybe I could just fiberglass over an old teak platform. I just need to make sure I save money in the budget for the subwoofers and surround sound.
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