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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swatkinz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Detached Garage
    Posted: January-27-2017 at 10:21am
Hey Fellas,
I've been kicking around the idea of a detached garage for the last 18 months or so. Recall my earlier detached garage ROI questions thread.   \

My current attached garage setup is sort of doable, but far from ideal for easy, regular boat storage and retrieval.    Because I've been getting a lot more serious about it, I figured it's a good, slow time of year to show some sketches and photos and get feedback. I've been looking regularly for the right boat but haven't found it yet so I'm able to commit more time to the storage needs of the boat when I do find it. Hence this thread and discussion

My primary purpose is to use this structure as boat storage, as a general purpose light project space, cooking space, escape from the women space, watch a game space, etc.

The exterior is being finished to match my home per the neighborhood requirements.   The interior will be unfinished at least for now, but possibly forever. With regards to size, I want the flexibility to store a 206, Sport, Sport 200, or if I hit the lottery, a GS20.

With an Interior that is 26.5' deep x 18.5wide, I think I can accommodate any of those boats or similar sized boats. Would anyone disagree? I'm using a 16'W x 8'H garage door. Interior ceiling height will be 9'6". Originally, I wanted to go with a taller door, but that will be cost prohibitive and I believe won't look good with the current garage door symmetry so I'll be folding a tower each and every time.   First world problem, right?   I'd like to have the space so that the platform can remain on and the tongue can be extended if desired, but would more than likely remove the platform and fold in longer layup storage periods. Foundation will be a monolithic concrete slab 4" thick.

I'm going to rough in for a toilet and sink drain and that'll get done as time and money permit.

Planning to sub out the work myself. Will probably do most of the electrical and plumbing myself. Thinking I can build this 20x28 garage for $25K-$35Kish.

Considerations? Thoughts?













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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 10:40am
I'd swap the location of the window and man door... keep the man door towards the front and you can tuck the boat in closer to the wall (door would open forward of the fender). If there's ever any chance of storing a 2nd vehicle in there, making the garage a few feet wider (move man door to front) would make a lot more room to move around inside.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swatkinz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 10:44am
Good points, Tim. See the overhead image of my lot below and it'll probably be obvious why the man door is on that side. The plan is to install a toilet in the back corner nearest the pool. Thought about making it wider, but that gets really tight to the house as I have a 20' side setback that I have to consider. No plans to store another vehicle in there.

Regarding the depth, width, height I'm working with, would you agree that I should be able to store any of the models mentioned in that space?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 10:49am
Save a few bucks and only brick the front, match the rest to the siding used on the front of the house at the 2nd floor. Would go at least 24 on the width if you can. Not sure how you plan to rough in plumbing, if you are trenching in power consider doing the waste and water at the same time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swatkinz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 10:57am
Quinner, I thought about the brick on the front only, but the neighborhood frowns on that. I also thought about widening, but it gets tight to the house really quick. Yes, to your suggestion about sharing the trench space with plumbing and electrical. That was my plan.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 10:57am
Originally posted by quinner quinner wrote:

Save a few bucks and only brick the front, match the rest to the siding used on the front of the house at the 2nd floor. Would go at least 24 on the width if you can. Not sure how you plan to rough in plumbing, if you are trenching in power consider doing the waste and water at the same time.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 11:41am
You say a taller door is cost prohibitive. Did you quote at a few places? Modular doors can be customized for less money than in the past. I'm just thinking from my own experience, there are a bunch of times when I'm dropping my boat off quick after a trip to the river because I have to pick up kids or something like that. Having to drop that Tower each and every time might get old, would be worth it to me to spend the bucks up front on the taller door.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swatkinz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 11:59am
David, from what I've been told, the only way to go taller on the door is to make the walls taller (makes sense to me). So it's the additional cost of the door but moreso seems to be the other structural modifications to accommodate that height. I was also told that to ensure that a typical tower height could be accommodated, a 10' door is really what would be needed. If I'm wrong on this, please advise as I'd rather have to not fold a tower.

Also, my wife is keeping me on my toes with regards to aesthetics. The taller door and building drawing looked goofy when in the periphery of the shorter attached garage door.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 12:03pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

You say a taller door is cost prohibitive. Did you quote at a few places? .

I too am curious about the cost. Most likely you would only be adding one more section of door and the extra track.

Regarding the width, I too would go wider. How much room did you leave between the proposed garage and the house? 10 feet is all you would need to get some heavy equipment into the back yard.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swatkinz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 12:09pm
I'll have 9' between the DG and the house with the current 20x28 dimension.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DayTony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 12:32pm
Nice. I love garage builds.
I'm not sure how it is in your area but if I wanted to build a garage I could not put it on simply a 4 inch slab. I would still have to dig down 4 feet and pour a foundation. Your going to find the concrete to be the largest money of the project. It sometimes cost a little more but I always prefer the concrete guy to float out a smooth finish rather than using a epoxy. This is especially nice if you use for working in there.

Exterior finishes will eat up a lot of the $$ too. Cedar shake$, brick$
Keep it simple, things like using trusses, and the zip system over using std ply and tyvek can be time and $$ saving.
Just a few things to add to the list of things to consider.
You may be at the top of your budget for fully finished project I feel. But I am basing off new England prices which are always higher it seems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 12:39pm
Although the garage would start getting a bit tall, going to a higher door would be a huge bonus! As an example, folding the tower on my 206 is easily a 5-10 minute job, remove cover up the windshield minimum, remove bimini and boot it, fold tower. If no bimini then it's really not that big a deal and even easier on the sport 200 towers. W/Bimini doing that every in/out will get old real fast.

Why the cedar shake at the gable, is that detail on the home somewhere? Like the look of a different detail there however if this is the only place it occurs you may want to reconsider that and just use lap siding there. Would lose the soffit/shingle detail or reduce it to the first 24" similar to the front elevation of the house @ brick and lose it all together at the rear elevation. Use a horizontal trim board in lieu. Definitely move the man door towards the front on the same side.
Whatever the sideyard setback is slam garage tight enough to get to the 24' width, typically those setbacks are a total for both sides with a minimum for either.
Regarding the HOA, frowning is one thing, cannot is another, that masonry all around will cost some $$$, if you have no preference do masonry front only.
Do you plan to stick build or truss the roof? Makes a big difference in you ability to utilize the storage space, with the roof pitch you have the second floor would be very usable as a loft space if stick built.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 1:36pm
I too would go wider... even though it cuts your space between the house and the garage.    Really, if you put your boat inside (8' +-) and have 3 ft of man door swing on one side, you won't have much room to do anything else.    Opening the doors of a car while your boat is in the garage won't happen in the remaining 7.5 ft. Working on something while your boat is in the garage becomes near impossible if you don't have the elbow room.    Another suggestion,    The toilet room area is likely going to be 4-5' deep, and 5' wide if you have a sink in there, that is going to chew into your parking space pretty quickly.   can you draw in the bathroom?   definitely go with the storage box in the trusses, it makes a huge difference.   

A couple of things I wish for in my garage, or would do again if I built another garage:

- radiant heat in the floors - no explosion hazard if you are painting, and allows you to maintain a freeze protected environment
- sink for hand washing
- 100A sub panel for compressor/welder
- recessed lighting
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldcuda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 2:25pm
I have a 20 ft wide garage and it not wide enough. Going 24' is money well spent. Extra height is a big plus too. If it were me I would be build as big as the law (and neighbors ) allows.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DayTony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 3:46pm
You can buy attic trusses too, so no wasted space.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 3:53pm
Someone needs to chime in with tower overall height, I don't have one so have no idea. No question that adding height to the whole structure adds quite a bit, from framing through exterior finishes. When I first posted I hadn't noticed that the 8' door went nearly to the top of the wall already.

Steve, I'm really good at spending other peoples money! But, you hear the general theme from all of us, bigger is better, bigger is more convenient, bigger is more capable and useful.

On your budget, I echo Tony's comment, up here I doubt I could put that structure up for $50,000. We'd need frost walls and 6" slab.

One more comment, and this one is overkill but useful - if in the construction you can frame up a lifting point somewhere you'd find over time it would come in useful. Harder to do on a free span 20' or 24' building.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 4:08pm
We built a 24'x28' garage about 14 years ago. It seemed plenty big at the time, but in hindsight I wish I went bigger as we've outgrown it. I'd go as big as you can and cheap out on siding and finishes. You can always upgrade those later. If 24' is going to get you 5' from the house, that is pretty close especially if there are windows on that side of the house, but we easily get 2 modern 8' wide ski boats in our garage with a classic Correct Craft in the middle bow first, and still have a lot of room for ski equipment and other stuff. 24' wide is a good minimum width.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fgroce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 5:53pm
Hi I like workshops. I built mine 50 x 32 deep. If you want to be able to put a work bench on the end wall and be able to walk between the table and the boat give yourself room. If you are too close will have to be careful not to bump into the back wall or work bench. Enjoy the shop.   I to, am real good at spending other people's money.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Got Tiques Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 7:56pm
Lots of comments to consider, but make the man door an "out-swing" door and it will allow egress without infringinging on your space. Almost no extra cost. Just my 2 cents!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2017 at 9:22pm
Quite a few homes down under on smaller blocks have a front and rear garage door so vehicle access to backyard is through garage. Then you could go a lot wider
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swatkinz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2017 at 9:59am
All good stuff guys. I really appreciate all of the comments.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dochockey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2017 at 12:49pm
It's too bad the pool wasn't on the other side,
As far as the Brick goes it doesn't have to go all the way up, go smaller windows and have the brick go up to the bottom of the windows then siding the rest of the way.
For the floor insulate it and run pex tubing now you can hook up heat later on.
As far as the bathroom goes you could do a bump out .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2017 at 1:37pm
Originally posted by Swatkinz Swatkinz wrote:

   No plans to store another vehicle in there.


Never thought I'd own more than one boat either!...... You gotta have at least two...every needs a spare boat!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-29-2017 at 11:36am
Steve,
What's your min. setback for a detached garage? I ask since I would kick the proposed garage parallel to the lot line on it's left, make it deeper moving the rear towards or even next to the pool and then go as wide as you can. (re grade excavation needed) Yes on the kick out bath - double door it so it could be used from the garage or the pool.

A comment was made about the cedar shakes on the gable ends being expensive. They do make fake shake siding in vinyl that's a reasonable cost. We sell it at the HD!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bb12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-29-2017 at 12:04pm
I'd go with Hardie fiber cement shake shingles on the gable ends. They look great and you won't have to worry about maintenance.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-29-2017 at 12:33pm
Originally posted by bb12 bb12 wrote:

I'd go with Hardie fiber cement shake shingles on the gable ends. They look great and you won't have to worry about maintenance.

Hardie Shake Shingles

You had better read the reviews!!! Lot's of problems with the Hardie siding products. I just had a customer in the HD the other day with issues Busting at the holes and falling off! Read all about the complaints and problem I wouldn't use the stuff on a dog house!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PLBC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-29-2017 at 12:41pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Steve,
What's your min. setback for a detached garage?


Pete, original post says 20'.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-29-2017 at 2:02pm
Originally posted by PLBC PLBC wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Steve,
What's your min. setback for a detached garage?


Pete, original post says 20'.

Kurt,
Thanks, I missed the set back but, I still feel Steve can get more room in the garage by moving it back and parallel to the lot line.. He'd have to lay it out if he wants.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PLBC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-29-2017 at 3:19pm
Agree.

Get to the setback and as large as possible.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-29-2017 at 4:19pm
Originally posted by Swatkinz Swatkinz wrote:

Thought about making it wider, but that gets really tight to the house as I have a 20' side setback that I have to consider.

Steve,
Confirm the setback. In some areas, the setback for a detached garage is 1/2 the setback of the house. As an example, this is true at my old location in Illinois as well as up here in Wisconsin.


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