New to me 78 Tique

I'm still running the original steering cable in my 77 and it's fine. In fact, I still have the original cable in my 64 and it too is fine. I don't know what they did with the cables in later years that make them go bad in such a short time?

I am pretty sure that they build the cables to fail now. We would see 4-6 year failures on newer boats when I was working at the dealer. My dad's 98 cable was really really tight when we acquired it in 2014. Only had 378 hours on the clock.

My 85 is still original and it's one of the most easy/smooth cables I've encountered besides the 90BFN. I haven't had a chance to poke around in that boat to see if that cable is original but I am guessing it is.

You can do it now, or you can do it later...

Has anyone figured out how to pump fresh grease through these cables from one end?

You would need to solvent flush first to get the solidified lub out first. I seem to remember Gary made a fitting to go on one end to pump lube through. I don't think it worked. Gary??

My one data point was affirmative. Placed on the crimp collar. things sound ugly when one hits the hardened wire weave of the outer jacket, but its not necessary to entirely drill all the way through as the grease will flow around the outer wires. the crimp collar has enough metal to support the zerk.

If I had the time which I do not my approach to trying to salvage in existing Steering cable would be to create a steam box with the cable hung vertically such that any residual grease would liquefy and drain out. I like the idea of adding Zerk fittings to the cable to promote lubrication

I believe that is what the seal on the support tube is there to prevent. I know Dad never had a lot of water in his bilge of the Shamrock, I was dumbfounded when it went bad. I just have a feeling it the type of lube they now use. Keeps profits up

8122pbrainard wrote: You would need to solvent flush first to get the solidified lub out first. I seem to remember Gary made a fitting to go on one end to pump lube through. I don't think it worked. Gary??

Well here comes another backyard hack solution that may or may not work for you depending on the issue with the cable.

I won't claim to have thought this up on my own, it's far too technologically advanced

Got it somewhere on the internet years ago

This was done to a rotary style cable as pictured

I took the cable out of the boat and clamped a piece of hose on the end that would go into the steering helm. Hose was long enough to cover all of the exposed spiral wound cable. On this cable 3/4 inch ID hose fit nicely.

Take that end and elevate it and leave the rudder end on the ground (I tied it to my porch handrail)

I then filled the 3/4 inch hose with some 90% diesel fuel/10% ATF mix and let gravity do it's thing for a day or so.

It leaked into the cable and came out the other end and loosened things up and you could push and pull the rudder end of the cable pretty easily.

No attempt was made to add any lubricant after this and it went back in the boat and steered pretty easily with one hand.

Before this it was a "two hander" when it came to steering.

It's been about 5 years and it still steers about the same.

This is in a boat that lives in the water for 6 months of the year with some water in the bilge.all the time

Someone may wonder why after going to the trouble to take the cable out, I didn't just replace it.

I might wonder that myself but I wanted to see if it would actually work and maybe even last a while.

I'd call it one of those "do at your own risk type things".

I replaced cables on friends boats instead of doing this because it was the sure fire solution and I wouldn't be worried about their steering

I never admitted it till now Pete

I guess if you can admit to having electronic ignition in the Tique and setting foot into an AutoZone I can admit to being a true backyard hack

samudj01 wrote:

David, I can provide a good solution for this problem! Shoot me an email as I have some Tique parts piling up this fall.

Next step is cutting and grinding. Do we need to take off all of the underwater gear/through hull items? We prefer to leave them on but look for advice. Items like rudder port, strut, drain, fin, etc. We do plan to remove the backers for the platform brackets and exhaust tips.

Also, what is the trick for removing the chrome ski tique emblem from the dash. I cut out the foam on the back side thinking I would find studs/nuts but did not.

samudj01 wrote: Next step is cutting and grinding. Do we need to take off all of the underwater gear/through hull items? We prefer to leave them on but look for advice. Items like rudder port, strut, drain, fin, etc. We do plan to remove the backers for the platform brackets and exhaust tips. Also, what is the trick for removing the chrome ski tique emblem from the dash. I cut out the foam on the back side thinking I would find studs/nuts but did not.

I had the same thing happen on my Ski Tique a couple of weeks ago. It's actually taped/glued on to the dash (no holes). It came apart in 3-4 pieces because it's a super soft metal that looks almost like plastic, This is what you're looking for right? I haven't been able to find anyone with a replacement for the Tique emblem. We have a diagram of it and are in the process of having it re-created with a 3D printer. I'll keep you posted.

I think unless you are severely OCD that would be best for now. At one time someone made up new face decals. TRBenj would most likely have the answer as he has done some.

David,

The air box needs to come out to do a correct job. IMHO.

Others have used new materials like PVC pipe within the air box rebuild for the duct air piping and the cables. That is a great area to make improvements. Also, inspect the metal rods that attach in the front and back for lifting the boat or for hanging in a boat house while you have it ripped open.

Donald