New to me 78 Tique |
Post Reply | Page <1 678910 21> |
Author | ||
Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
What they are talking about is inletting a piece of 2 X 8 or 2 X 6 into the stringers and then laying down the ply. The 2 X will displace the load and bolt into both stringers
|
||
Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
||
Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I have two of these S/S plates that can sandwich the inletted 2 X 8 plates if you want them. You just pay postage
. |
||
Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
||
samudj01
Gold Member Joined: March-10-2009 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 931 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Thanks for the offer. We will take you up on it. I'll shoot you an email or pm.
|
||
78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409
Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
||
samudj01
Gold Member Joined: March-10-2009 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 931 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Ok guys. A few questions:
-What is the best gel coat patch kit. We don't think spectrum will have a match for the 78 white. So what kit that we can tint ourselves is the best? -What do we need for minor fiberglass repairs? Just some epoxy and scrap mat? Going to fix a leak in the exhaust log and bed a new cross member/plates for the pylon. -Anyone close to Winston Salem/badin lake who has some extra glass materials and would like to sell some to us? We shouldn't need a lot and I thought someone may want to recoup some expense. Just a thought. Otherwise we will buy new. Thanks! |
||
78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409
Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
||
samudj01
Gold Member Joined: March-10-2009 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 931 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Jesse was having computer issues and asked that I post the following:
Hello All, David and I pulled the boat out for the year with plans for several mechanical and cosmetic repairs. We have run into two major issues that we need your advice. 1. Our exhaust manifolds (Commander 302) leaks water at an alarming rate. We are talking several drops per second on both sides. The leak point is the gasket between the manifold itself and the metal elbow. I suspect that it is a cork/paper gasket. We can not get the elbow off of the manifold. We have tried a 3lb hammer and block of wood. We have tried a rubber mallet. We have been hesitant to do anything more than firmly tap the parts. Does anyone have a trick for getting these apart? I suspect the issue is that the bolts have rusted into the manifold. 2. At the end of the season, the floor around our pylon came loose. The pylon and the pylon cup are undamaged, but the original glassed in floor around the pylon is toast. Our original plan was to tackle cosmetic repairs and upholstery this winter, so this is an added wrinkle. We are currently considering the idea of a floor patch that would be designed to last 1 season until we are prepared to tackle the stringers. The starboard stringer is full on shot. The motor mount screws in the starboard stringer are solid, but there is significant rot both for and aft of the motor. The port stringer is fairly solid, but there is delamination of the glass that surrounds it. The secondary stringers are delaminated and the extent of any rot has not be explored. Please see the attached pictures That said is there a possible way to fill in the starboard stringer so that we can glass in a new floor board over the stringer? Can you recommend a glass schedule to us to apply over the replacement board? Are we acting foolishly to be attempting a 1 season repair? 3. Can anyone point us to a good thread on exhaust log repair? See attached damage. And here is the real rookie questions: why do we not just run a rubber pipe from the manifold to the transom? As always, thank you for all of the help that all of you provide. |
||
78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409
Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
David,
It sure looks like the stringer issue isn't the best. Maybe you should consider the stringer job first? You say the engine lags on the starboard side are solid but the port main stringer must be almost gone from the looks of the engine alignment. I'd be more concerned about the engine/trans than the pylon. Take a look at the rubber hose connecting the log to the prop shaft gland!!! |
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10641 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I think Pete has taken his "kinder gentler" pills this morning based on his answer.but you know what he's saying The more you look, the uglier the stringers are gonna be. You already have the issue with the steering cable clamp due to a rotted stringer and add in what you describe and show in the pictures and you should already know the answer On the manifolds I'd try a little heat and penetrant You could also double nut the studs if there is room to do it and pull them out, then they should come apart. Rubber hose all the way back is no problem especially if you don't fix the stringers. That way the engine can twist and turn all over the place |
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
David,
Per Ken, maybe I shouldn't be as kind and be more blunt and firm. You NEED stringers!! Taking an even closer look at the pictures, it looks like the port side of the engine has sunk to the point were the prop shaft is ripping the log out of the hull! Take a look at were the log is glassed into the hull. |
||
Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7946 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I love the one year fix as they always last more than one year. You need stringers, but you could repair them, It's just deciding if you want to put time and money into a temporary patch job. I'm curious about that glass breaking off on the hull around the log, as well as why the hose is like that. Is the hose even attached to the log?
|
||
scootdogydog
Senior Member Joined: November-03-2013 Location: Central MA Status: Offline Points: 404 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
David/Jesse: I went to fix a leaky exhaust manifold/riser gasket as well. I was able to carefully remove the old gasket, but couldn't get the two separated. Afraid of damaging it, I brought it to a welder friend of mine, and even he struggled to get them apart. Right when he saw them, he mentioned a chemical reaction between aluminum, steel, and water. The studs were frozen to both the riser and the manifold. If you have a friend that owns a welding shop, they are less likely to damage it.
|
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Scott, David's Commander manifolds are stainless steel. there's no galvanic corrosion. . David, From the looks of the joint between the manifold and elbow, I'd say it's just the gasket and dried out sealant that's holding them together. Several sharp blows with a cold chisel around the joint will get them apart. You may end up with a few dings on the sealing surface but a few strokes with a flat file will take care of it. |
||
jarrell001
Newbie Joined: February-27-2017 Location: 27104 Status: Offline Points: 13 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
The picture of the shaft log may be deceiving.
I think the shaft log fiberglass was repaired at one point. The fiberglass around it does not appear to be coming cup. I just has trash on it. Also the hose around the shaft log was cut slightly crooked, so it may be a bit of an illusion. That said, I'm hearing you on the need for stringers though. |
||
Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7946 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Scott, your machine shop can't tell the difference between aluminum and SS?
|
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Unbolt the trans coupling halves and see what happens. I have a feel you may be surprised! Also take a look under the boat at where the prop shaft is in the log and hole through the hull. |
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Yes, tell us the name of this shop you go to. I want to steer clear of them! |
||
bwinn
Senior Member Joined: July-13-2009 Location: ct Status: Offline Points: 391 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I'd disagree I'm leaning towards aluminum |
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10641 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Yup, normal original formula, undiluted Pete is back |
||
Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7946 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
We have 2 sets and they seem like aluminum to me, although a former CCF expert told me they were all SS as well because all the aluminum ones were recalled by Commander and replaced with SS.
|
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Burton, You must work for that machine shop Scott goes to. |
||
JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5693 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
So yeah those are Aluminum, and most commanders are aluminum, am I missing the joke here... . Anyhow they wont come apart easy, heat will likely help.
|
||
63 Skier
Grand Poobah Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4231 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I thought Aluminum as well. Either way, sometimes some are a bit too quick to criticize a welding shop that is trying to help out a friend .......
|
||
'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
|
||
63 Skier
Grand Poobah Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4231 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
On some Hardin manifolds I was amazed at how hard it was to get them to separate, Took more heat than I really wanted to put to it, plus more power behind a hammer than I thought was wise. Really stubborn but they do come apart eventually.
|
||
'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
|
||
scootdogydog
Senior Member Joined: November-03-2013 Location: Central MA Status: Offline Points: 404 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
David -- also, get some high temp gasket material from mcmaster. I think you'll need to cut your own. I did and it wasn't very difficult.
|
||
bwinn
Senior Member Joined: July-13-2009 Location: ct Status: Offline Points: 391 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I think it would be difficult to cast "commander" into those logs in SS
|
||
Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Some S/S is very castable. Mine are aluminum. I would do the chisel work from the bottom side where it won't show. Heat and oil will help.
Gosh, I hope my weld shop does not get lumped into that category Pete. |
||
Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Why? |
||
scootdogydog
Senior Member Joined: November-03-2013 Location: Central MA Status: Offline Points: 404 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Pete -- let's try to keep this a little on task here. If the manifolds are stainless, a little heat and pounding should get them apart.
IF they don't come apart with a little heat and pounding, let's assume they are aluminum. How would you go about getting them off? More heat and more pounding? Is there anything that David/Jesse should be careful about by too much heat or pounding? |
||
samudj01
Gold Member Joined: March-10-2009 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 931 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
The studs/bolts are very rusted so a little soaking may go a long way. Spray with pb blaster? Just kidding...put acetone/atf mix on them? The studs and the gasket are our suspects
|
||
78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409
Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
||
bwinn
Senior Member Joined: July-13-2009 Location: ct Status: Offline Points: 391 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
You've got me there. What I should have said was, the SS commander logs I am familiar with have a decal. Aluminum have cast insignia. I am no expert, I can only speak from my experiences. |
||
JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5693 |
Post Options
Thanks(1)
|
|
No expert perhaps but you are correct, the stainless ones have stickers and are welded together... also have two inlet locations on the front. ... relatively easy to spot. |
||
Post Reply | Page <1 678910 21> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |