New to me 78 Tique

scootdogydog wrote: let's assume they are aluminum. How would you go about getting them off? More heat and more pounding? Is there anything that David/Jesse should be careful about by too much heat or pounding?

If they are the aluminum and not the stainless commanders, you are correct that galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals is a problem. It will be between the bolts and the manifolds so that's the area of concern. Get a box wrench on the bolts but if they don't want to come out easily, I'd stop. Getting any penetrating oil all the way past the bolt heads and into the threads will be very difficult so, I'd cut the heads of the bolts off. A die grinder or Dremel with a cut off wheel would be my choice. Then get some penetrating around the holes and get the cold chisel out I mentioned earlier. The elbows should come off and mild heat may help. Now they will be left with the cut off bolts in the manifold. I suggest getting the penetrating (50% ATF and 50% Acetone) out again, stand the manifolds on end and soak around the bolts. I'd keep doing this for several days. Now with a vise grip on the bolts, you should be able to loosen the bolts going both directions. Don't try to remove them completely if they don't come out easy. You want to preserve as much of the threads in the manifolds as possible. Get more 50-50 at the bolts, let it soak in again and try again. Worst case if the threads are bad, thread inserts will need to be installed. The mating surfaces of the manifolds and elbows will need cleaning up and possibly by machining.

samudj01 wrote: These are studs with nuts between the elbow and the manifold. Do you think the studs are removable or will the elbow just pop off?

They don't look like studs with nuts in the posted picture but, if they are I feel you are lucky.

samudj01 wrote:

Get some 50-50 on the nuts, back them off and then 50-50 around the studs. Get the cold chisel between the elbow and manifold. and see what happens. The chance of the mating surfaces needing a clean up are high so then the studs will need to come out.

I couldn't get the nuts off the studs either. You need to cut the studs to get them off. Then get the riser off, then maybe weld nuts to the leftover stud to free them from the manifold

HM's are very similar but with their riser design it gives you a place to apply a rubber or dead blow hammer. Maybe you can do something like that. Once it starts coming off then you can start backing off the nuts again, you getting them started without breaking off is half the battle

The decision was made tonight that a stringer job will be on the docket this winter. First up keep dismantling the boat and pull the engine. Going to reread as many stringer threads as I can. Wish us luck. We are confident on everything but time. That is our most valuable resource with the boat an hr away and both having young families. But here goes. Stay tuned.

On the exhaust logs...is ours repairable, just glass the end? Are logs needed? Why not rubber tube for long term? We don't understand the fiberglass logs?

Is there no lifting point on the 302? We don't see one so we plan to use lifting straps at the four brackets. We will lift with the forks of a tractor so weight and height shouldn't be an issue.

Will plan on documenting and probably asking one or 1000 more questions. Now back to reading stringer threads.

KENO wrote: The fiberglass things that are cracked are mufflers.You can fiberglass them to fix the broken spots .

By the time you get your stringer job done and are ready for the mufflers, repairing them will be apiece of cake.. You will be an epoxy pro.   

Throw the mufflers in the trash and use corrigated hose. Get some zip lock bags and a sharpie, and bag and label every part you remove.

phatsat67 wrote: David, there should be unused holes at the ends of each head. pick up a chain and bolts that fit those ends and screw them through the chain links..

7/16 - 14 thread

.Use this hole on one head and use another on the back end of the other head. Chain will cross engine diagonally

.

Duane in Indy wrote: phatsat67 wrote: David, there should be unused holes at the ends of each head. pick up a chain and bolts that fit those ends and screw them through the chain links.. 7/16 - 14 thread

Commander should have plates to use already bolted on. Likely dangling at 6 o' clock.

I do it Zach and Duane's way.

Maybe those lifting plates disappeared in the last 39 years

7/16-14 bolts screwed into the holes at the end of each head, diagonal orientation back of one head to the front of the other, and take the carburetor, alternator etc off first so you don't accidentally beat them up with the chain.

No picture of it getting lifted but here's how it gets used when boating season is over

Any picture of the guy with the V8 chainsaw when it kicks & lands on top of him, or more likely both halves of him?

That is a Tim the Toolman chainsaw... more power!

Replace all the cables. Well worth the $200. Looks like your shaft is fretting. It's a nice boat, well worth the effort.

Nice shop! and boat!