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Damage boat project

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91nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 91nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2017 at 10:40pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Before you start smearing on that hull you should really ask
Bondo?
Mike,
Yes, you need to communicate. Bondo just like that urethane adhesive is not the recommended material. I asked once before and you never answered. Are you getting guidance off site? If so, it's poor guidance. Sorry.

Bondo is polyester resin mixed with talc. They whip it to make it lighter. It absorbs water big time.    There is still time to sand it off. Epoxy resin with cabosil would be a much more permanent filler.

This guy isn't listening to anything but his wallet. I hate to think of the poor guy that buys this boat. why come on here and ask for advice you aren't going to follow.

yikes.... Well, I don't want to rain on your parade, but I am thinking that BONDO is a big mistake, especially below the waterline
guess I am a slow typer, but not the only one with the same opinion
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Mike9812121298 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2017 at 10:43pm
Well sounds like I know what I'm doing tonight. Might have to pick up a extra 6 pack. Easy fix, could I chop up some fiberglass and mix that into the expoxy?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2017 at 10:48pm
Get the six pack, dig that junk out and get back on track with epoxy resin and glass. Whew--thought it was going to be a basket case for a moment there!
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Mike9812121298 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2017 at 10:59pm
I get it taken off tonight and apply the epoxy tonight. I'll try to upload some pics before I call it quits for the night
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91nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 91nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2017 at 11:08pm
Mike, prep it and let us see how it looks....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2017 at 11:38pm
And Mike, don't forget, we want to hear how you did the strut to log alignment. That's a big gap in your posting and a MAJOR concern.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2017 at 12:10am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

And Mike, don't forget, we want to hear how you did the strut to log alignment. That's a big gap in your posting and a MAJOR concern.

Mike,
I see you are viewing this thread I suspect there's a reason!! Tell us about the alignment.


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Mike9812121298 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2017 at 2:36am
Like I said. I haven't done the alignment. I just temp installed it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2017 at 3:18am
Mike--did you get the New shaft yet? Would be great to start playing with that alignment as that's the important step of all steps in finishing up. External hull glass and gel is window dressing compared to getting the alignment right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2017 at 7:13am
Working on the shaft alignment, up and down looks good. Engine needs to come left. I loosen the bolt on each side front and back and tried prying with no luck. I tried to take pics to show each side.









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2017 at 10:45am
MIke - If you don't have any glass filler on hand, you can chop up some cloth with scissors. It is pretty slow & tedious, & the pcs are inconsistent. Much better to get a manufactured filler as it will be easier to work with & end up smoother.

You might want to fill the divots in several layers. If you put too much on at one time, gravity will win.

Another tip much like your wood block mold support, I have used a big sponge to support uncured mix in an overhead application. Use plastic sheet as a barrier of course.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2017 at 11:43am
Tap the adjuster lockbolt down a bit, I had the same issue. Lube, pry,cuss, pry,cuss.....finally it moves, but way too far!

Great job on the rebuild!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rolleronariver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2017 at 2:30pm
I wish my sport would've been that aligned after my stringer repair. My adjusters were froze up too. I ended up hoisting up my motor just enough to take the weight off of the mounts and took the adjusters off and freed them up with some penetrating oil and, at one point, a hammer. it helped a lot!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2017 at 2:52pm
Mike,
I love the can-do attitude, and the fact that you are willing to do the repair correctly.   it speaks a lot to your temperament and personality.    On the motor mounts, I did the same as ROAR,   I had to take mine out, and use a drift to remove the slide pins.   I wire wheeled the outside of the sliders and added a heavy dose of anti-seize to each part when re-assembling.   It's a step that sucks now for sure.
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Mike9812121298 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2017 at 7:53pm
How did u hoist the engine up? I have a cherry picker but that would reach over the side, or placing a jack under the engine but there's not enough clearance.
I just got my new strut bolts and picked up a bigger breaker bar while I was there. I still don't think it will be enough.


On a side note. Why do I always get a error when posting a reply saying that my time expried. Makes me copy the message then reload page, paste then send the reply? Anyone else have this issue
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2017 at 8:03pm
Mike - an easy way to jack the engine (at least the rear) is to put a small jack under the exhaust manifold. I use my trailer scissor jack..
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rolleronariver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2017 at 8:08pm
I might get hounded for admitting what I did. But, it worked. I only did the back half so I took a 4x4 and placed it across the top of the boat from port to starboard and took a big ratchet strap and used that to just simply hold the motor up enough to allow me to get the adjusters off and work on them. If you do this, make sure you use some thick towels under the board so that you don't scratch your boat up. I was a nervous wreck doing it this way but honestly, I had zero issues and if I had to do it again I probably would.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2017 at 9:29pm
Mike, as you are looking for the perfect sweet spot for your shaft alignment, remember the weight of the shaft will make it sag a little at the engine/tranny connection.
I made a short 2x4 and cut a V into the top that fit my 1"shaft and slid the 2x4 under the shaft and toward the stuffing box till the shaft was supported and turned freely and centered in the log. With the shaft supported like this I adjusted the engine to that natural position. Once done the shaft turns freely, I can touch my prop with one finger and easily turn the prop with it completely assembled to the engine.
I believe they call this position the sweet spot for the shaft.   If you have drag play with your alignment of the shaft till it is straight.
With all that said this assumes your log is straight, some even from the factory are slightly off and to keep your prop shaft aligned to the direction of the boat it needs to be off center in the log. The log and rope seal will allow for a little misalignment but the shaft needs to be located so it spins freely and is in line with the center line of your boat..
I was able to get mine adjusted so there is less than .0015 clearance at the widest gap and I have no vibrations at any RPM.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2017 at 10:29pm
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

Mike,
I was able to get mine adjusted so there is less than .0015 clearance at the widest gap and I have no vibrations at any RPM.

Mike,
I'd like to comment on Marks statement regarding vibration. A misaligned shaft will NOT cause vibrations since the shaft is in a bind. So, I suggest not to use the no vibration as a basis of correct alignment. Go by what Marks states about finding that sweet spot in the cutlass. Remember, alignment starts at the strut and not the engine.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2017 at 12:06am
I should have mentioned to Mike that Pete and several others on this forum with more experience are the reason I was able to align my new shaft correctly. They have the experience we lean on and learn from. You can't buy better advice!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2017 at 7:28am
I placed a jack under the exhaust and jacked it up just enough to hold the pos. Took the right side mount out and the engine didn't take much to slide over. I placed the frozen mount in the vise and wacked it 10-15 times still won't move. I'm going to let some wd-40 sit in there for the night and hope it breaks it loose.   I have a feeling it's not going to do anything. At least made some progress tonight







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scootdogydog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2017 at 9:24am
Mike -- your progress looks good, and I think you'll have a great boat soon. Good work. remember that everyone on this site is here to help you and many have done repairs that have involved more work than yours. people on this site are experts.

My two suggestions are to not be offended when you are told to go back a step
if you tell us what you're going to do before you do it, you'll end up saving time, work, and materials ($$). In this case, wd40 is not at all advised; 50/50 acetone/ATF is much better, so if you don't have any luck with WD40, try to mix acetone and AT together and repeat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2017 at 1:48pm
Originally posted by Mike9812121298 Mike9812121298 wrote:

How did u hoist the engine up? I have a cherry picker but that would reach over the side, or placing a jack under the engine but there's not enough clearance.


I used a cherry picker too, I had to guide the motor with a 2x4 so that it would slide into the correct location as my CP reach is a little short.    I used a carb plate to lift, and took the wheels off on one side of the trailer so the motor would clear the gunwhale.    It's a reach for sure, but I don't have a tractor, a tow truck or a pair of stout trees handy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2017 at 2:40pm
Mike,
My concern and I know others above have expressed the same, is the gap in your repair not saying or showing anything about the strut alignment. Your went from some pictures of the bilge repair to the strut bolted up, Bondo smeared around the strut and now you're aligning the engine. The strut alignment is critical so the shaft is centered in the log and happy (turns freely) in the strut cutlass.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2017 at 3:35pm
One more in agreement with WD 40 note, the Acetone / ATF Tranny fluid 50/50 mix will help you way more than WD 40, probably 5 times more effective.
If you have a small torch heat up your mount and let the heat draw in the fluid, it will break loose, they always do.
You do know to loosen the side clamp bolt and tap a wedge into the split to release the clamp force on the mount?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2017 at 6:33pm
Mike,
Are the pictures of the shaft in the log with the front end of the shaft supported like Mark suggested? His method to support the weight of the forward end of the shaft is a good one. It allows you to really see if the shaft is happy in the cutlass. If it is supported, I suggest shimming the aft bolts of the strut to bring the shaft up in the log. As mentioned, SS washers can be used. It would probably only take one washer under the aft bolts of the strut.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2017 at 11:34pm
i used a cut rubber tube and placed it around the shaft, that helped get it centered. using the feeler gauge top, left, right no go, but the bottom it will slide in. i ran out of time before work to finish it. I also put two washers on the right side of the strut. i have the weekend off so i should be able to get a good amount of work done
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2017 at 2:31pm


With a little bit of heat. She broke loose.

The next project,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2017 at 2:40pm
Love your next project, great classic.
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