Bargain Super Sport: A quest to join team red.

Boat looks awesome. Congratulations

What a steal! Beautiful boat!

So took the boat out for it's first test drive today. It was a perfect day. Sun was out, water was smooth. Wind was a little cold but that kept the other boats off the lake which meant I could drive it like I stole it. Here are the results.

The good.
- Engine runs well. managed to get it up to 45MPH (GPS) and tach went to 5000rpm.
- Started great first time every time. Oil pressure and temp were great.
- Overall the boat is in great condition. Very few rattles or shakes besides the tower.
- Stereo works, lights work, blower and bilge pump work.
- I really like the layout and storage the Super Sport offers over the Sport.
- I still really liked the way it drove and didn't have any issue with hadling vs how the sport handles.
Got a better look at the trailer once the boat was off it and it looks almost brand new. I am not sure if it has ever seen water.
Oil looked great after ruining the boat for about an hour. No signs of water.


The Bad (thing I know how to deal with)
- Horn doesn't work.
- Lots of rattles from the tower, Looks like it will need some tightening and some of the hardware needs to be replaced.
- 3 or 4 pieces will need new vinyl
- boat needs a new cover. which sucks because they somehow installed snaps for the current cover but it doesn't fit.

The Ugly (things that will need a bit more work to figure out)
- One of the seat bases is cracked pretty bad and is pretty much not usable until it is repaired. . Another has a crack, is still usable but looks like it will need repair sooner rather than later.

- There was a small vibration, that was more noticeable during acceleration. I noticed after taking the boat out the water that the prop was lose on the shaft and I could move if up and back and forth on the shaft. Hoping this is related to the issue. I have a new prop so I will start with replacing the prop on the boat and I will also check the alignment. I have a 644 prop I bought last week, ready to be lapped and installed.


Overall I would say so far so good. For the price, I still feel well ahead I should be able to fix the Vinyl for about $1000 and maybe the same for the cover. and maybe a few hundred bucks for the our part, putting me at still under 13k.

And hear are some picks of the cracked seat base. in the second picture the bottom right corner, the piece is completely broken off. Can this be glued back together? what would/should I use.

The horn-- check the terminals. I bet one came off under the flip up passenger seat. That's how I fixed mine. Yeah that loose prop will certainly cause vibration!!! The 644 should give you a lot more revs and probably a little more speed too.

That tower--not sure if it's going to tighten up but as you said, it's worth it to give it a run and make sure it's tight to the hull and all joints tightened.

I like the pvc repair method recommended. That ought to work.

How nice to have a successful shakeout. Thanks for the detailed pics and show us the seat base repair in case any of us need it down the road. Congratulations on buying a great bargain Super Sport.

I just found out mine went 45.3 @ 4900 rpm on it's original water test in 1995 with a 14x18 prop. It now runs 46.2 @ 4700 with a Acme 13x17.5 4 blade. So yours is running right where it should be it seems. My horn quit also last summer,like Pete's the wires had fallen off. When you go to change the cover on the back pad check the tightness of the bracket that holds the lift cylinder to it. Maybe even remove it and reattach with locktight or use nylon stop nuts. Mine is loose and I don't want to remove the upholstery just to tighten it You got a great deal I'm really surprised that it was still available. You were supposed to get it!

8122pbrainard wrote: Paul, I feel the seat base is the expanded PVC sheet. I would overlay the crack(s) with a 1/8" PVC sheet glued to the original with PVC cement. Use the heavy body cement for PVC pipe over 6" in diameter. The patch may not lay flat on the old base, so will need to run some screws in temporarily to suck the two together.

Thanks for the advice Pete.,

Not sure is it's clear in the pic but the PVC is about an inch think. Do you think I should use the PVC cement to glue the cracked pieces together before adding the 1/8 " piece?

Also if I wanted to try refabricate the base. How would I go about creating the bend in the base?

It looks like you got an amazing deal on that boat, when you can drop it in the water and run it hard right away you know you've done well. Good luck with it!

I would think you will get a bit more speed at slightly lower RPMs with a new prop, properly installed.

As to the cover, not sure where the fit is off. But, if it is a Canvas Cover, you may want to get it wet in the hot sun, and stretch it. Neighbors was off by probably 4 inches. We were able to stretch till it fit. Once on, if you can leave it in place for a couple of weeks, it is helpful.

BKH

Gary S wrote: When you go to change the cover on the back pad check the tightness of the bracket that holds the lift cylinder to it. Maybe even remove it and reattach with locktight or use nylon stop nuts. Mine is loose and I don't want to remove the upholstery just to tighten it

This is great advice. You should also do the same with the hinges as I have seen a few posts over the years from people asking how to tighten those up. I went the locktight route when I had my sun pad redone 5 years ago and everything is still solid.

Good luck with everything! Seems like you got a great deal!

I agree, that is always nice to see.

8122pbrainard wrote: Paul, Gluing the busted pieces together won't hurt but they may not fit together tight enough to get a good bond. I do suggest still using the 1/8".

The pieces do still fit together pretty tight. My plan here is to glue them together to get the basic shape back then add the 1\8" overlay.

My question is will pvc cement be the best option for gluing the pieces back together??

Blamey wrote: - New rub rail insert went with the red McMaster Carr option as Integrity Marine has a $100 minimum on Orders.

Do what you want but if I were you I would test fit the the McMaster pipe before you remove all of the original. It did not fit as tight in my rubrail and being a softer more pliable plastic I was worried that it would have a tendency to catch and roll out of the groove. I ended up not using it.

Gary S wrote: Blamey wrote: - New rub rail insert went with the red McMaster Carr option as Integrity Marine has a $100 minimum on Orders. Do what you want but if I were you I would test fit the the McMaster pipe before you remove all of the original. It did not fit as tight in my rubrail and being a softer more pliable plastic I was worried that it would have a tendency to catch and roll out of the groove. I ended up not using it.

I've already put it in my Sport and was happy with it. I agree it's a bit soft but at least it goes in easily.it would sometimes come out a bit when rubbing on the trailer bow stop bit would push back it just fine.

a.klos wrote: I went to work on my 2002 SS on Tuesday and here it was a 96 SS on the same parking lot! Congrats on the boat! Hopefully, I will be working on ballast this weekend so I might see you.

I know your boat well. I Always check it out when driving out after parking mine. It is a real nice super sport.

Where did you get your cover? I plan to copy it for my boat. Have you had any issues with it?

Good to know your on CCF. I was checking out your trailer last week to size up the tires and turnbuckle I needed for my boat.