Use a Cylinder Hone on Strut?

In a previous thread I mentioned that I dropped the strut in order to remove my drive shaft. Well, the strut and drive shaft came out fine, and now I'm in the process of replacing the strut bearing.

Removing the old strut bearing from the strut was a b!tch. It fought me every step of the way. I finally had to press the bearing out on my HarborFreight 20 ton press. The bearing scored the inside of the strut during removal. I'm now concerned that I need to clean up the inside bore of the strut before attempting to install a new strut bearing.

I purchased a new brass/rubber 6" strut bearing. My plan is to put the new strut bearing in the freezer prior to installing. However, before even attempting the install, I'm thinking about using a brake cylinder hone on the inside bore of the strut. I've got a hone that is designed for a 1-1/4" cylinder -- exactly the size of the bore of the strut. It's a ball-type silicon carbide hone. Anybody see any problems with using this hone to clean up the bore? I realize that the strut metal is much softer than a brake cylinder, so I'll be very cautious about removing too much metal.

Thoughts?

JQ

"Ball hones" are typically only glaze breakers. They tend to ride over any high spots. Probably cant' hurt but not sure how much it will help. A fixed or rigid hone would do better but if that is all you have then go for it. Just for clarity the bearing will have about .001" interference fit rather than clearance. Clearance and it would fall out.   Get all your tools ready before you start the installation. Threaded rod and nuts with washers will work. Don't get it cocked to one side or the other.   Freeze the bearing and heat the round cavity of the strut. 300 degrees or so should swell it up some. Have wet rags ready to quench the casting.   Duane

A brake hone could get in the strut and clean it up for you. Any local Auto Parts Store should have one available if needed or maybe just a few rotations with emory cloth on your finger could clean up the rough spots. You just want to knock down the high spots and remove as little material as possible.

Come on guys it's a strut bearing not a crank bearing. Take a 1/2 round file knock off any burrs and put the new one in, this isn't rocket science.
I used a 1" dowel that I slightly sanded down to drive out the old bearing then a piece of all thread and washers to install the new one.

Did you use a sawzall to cut the old bearing?