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Glass Layup Schedule on '82 2001?

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TRBenj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2017 at 11:05am
I agree with Joe. Sadly, the 2lb density foam is on the light side for structural (floor) support so the glass going over it will have to be thicker to compensate... but I definitely wouldn't put wood everywhere if I didn't have to.
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Nautique Newby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2017 at 11:30am
I debated the choice of wood for a while. It's not ideal obviously but I figured the extra support might be worth it.

If I were to just go with glass (no wood), would 1 layer of 10 oz followed by 2 layers of 1708 for the floor be sufficient. Or do I need more layers?

Regardless of wood or no wood there will be multiple players of glass on top. Do all layers "flash" up onto the hull or only the top one or two? All layers would significantly thicken the hull sides at the "flashed" area and didn't know if this was a bad idea. I haven't seen this covered in any other threads.
I hope I don't screw this up!
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Nautique Newby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2017 at 10:06am
I never got a response on the questions above and have found limited info on forum searches, particularly on flashing onto the hull.

Based on the floor layup info I've found it looks like I need at least two layers of 1708 and two of 10 oz cloth. I'm thinking of the following order... 1708 over the foam (mat side down), 10 oz, 1708 (again, mat side down), 10 oz on top. BTW- I did NOT use any plywood over the foam except under the seats in the front. I have the typical wood outriggers off the secondary stringers like the factory setup.

I haven't found any info about flashing the layers onto the hull around the perimeter of the floor. I don't see why all 4 layers would need to go up the hull. I'm thinking just the top two. Does anyone have an opinion on this?

One more question... I trimmed the old floor on the starboard side within an inch of the hull. It was firmly attached to the hull so I did not cut it flush to the hull and used the leftover floor flange as a guide to cutting the foam for the new floor. The floor on the port side was not adhered to hull well at all. In fact I was able to easily peal it off the hull entirely. Is there any issue with leaving the flange on the starboard side? I was planning on just glassing over it.

Thanks,
I hope I don't screw this up!
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Wisky Badger View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wisky Badger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2017 at 10:23pm
I think if you flash/tab the floor to the hull with two layers of 1708 you will have enough strength.   

I personally would removing the old tabbing area off both sides of the hull.   You have done so much work so far and it will probably take less than an hour to get it removed.   You want to make sure that you get a really good seal and bond in this area so you don't get water in your brand new foam.

As far as your floor layup, your glassing schedule will probably work. I would recommend going heavy on the glass because you used 2lb foam and US Composites says that their 2lb foam is not structural.   I used 3 layers of 1708 on my floor with 4lb foam and that might have been a little over kill.

Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-14-2017 at 4:13pm
Welp, I have not worked on the boat much at all over the past 3 months. I did get the foam finished and the wood under the seats installed as well as the wood floor support strips on each side of the bilge installed. It's nearly ready for glassing in the floor.

However I've had to take a long break from the work due to some personal issues. As a result I've got a very important bullet point for the "Lessons Learned" stringer list... make sure your spouse completely understands how much time will be involved in this project and is 150% okay with it.

Mine did not, mostly because I underestimated how much time it would take, and I was trying to rush the boat into service this past summer by working on it most weekends for months straight. Big mistake!!!! My wife filed for divorce and nearly ruined the lives of 5 people along with my plans for family weekends on the lake. Luckily we have stepped back form the ledge and are on the road to reconciliation.

I'm not laying my personal dirty laundry out there to be melodramatic, but rather as a cautionary tale to others about to undertake this size project. Don't be a hard-headed idiot like I was and forget what's most important in life.

Obviously the boat was not the sole cause of my situation but it absolutely contributed.

Not sure when I will get back on it but I still have hopes it can be back on the water summer 2018. I'll continue my updates once I restart.

... and I thought my tag line just applied to the boat...
I hope I don't screw this up!
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Jonny Quest View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-14-2017 at 8:16pm
Best of luck to you with the spouse reconciliation project. I agree with you that we need to keep a proper balance between spouse, family, boat, play, work, etc.

I'm glad to see that you are working toward staying together.

JQ
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