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Glass Layup Schedule on '82 2001?

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TRBenj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2017 at 11:05am
I agree with Joe. Sadly, the 2lb density foam is on the light side for structural (floor) support so the glass going over it will have to be thicker to compensate... but I definitely wouldn't put wood everywhere if I didn't have to.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2017 at 11:30am
I debated the choice of wood for a while. It's not ideal obviously but I figured the extra support might be worth it.

If I were to just go with glass (no wood), would 1 layer of 10 oz followed by 2 layers of 1708 for the floor be sufficient. Or do I need more layers?

Regardless of wood or no wood there will be multiple players of glass on top. Do all layers "flash" up onto the hull or only the top one or two? All layers would significantly thicken the hull sides at the "flashed" area and didn't know if this was a bad idea. I haven't seen this covered in any other threads.
I hope I don't screw this up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2017 at 10:06am
I never got a response on the questions above and have found limited info on forum searches, particularly on flashing onto the hull.

Based on the floor layup info I've found it looks like I need at least two layers of 1708 and two of 10 oz cloth. I'm thinking of the following order... 1708 over the foam (mat side down), 10 oz, 1708 (again, mat side down), 10 oz on top. BTW- I did NOT use any plywood over the foam except under the seats in the front. I have the typical wood outriggers off the secondary stringers like the factory setup.

I haven't found any info about flashing the layers onto the hull around the perimeter of the floor. I don't see why all 4 layers would need to go up the hull. I'm thinking just the top two. Does anyone have an opinion on this?

One more question... I trimmed the old floor on the starboard side within an inch of the hull. It was firmly attached to the hull so I did not cut it flush to the hull and used the leftover floor flange as a guide to cutting the foam for the new floor. The floor on the port side was not adhered to hull well at all. In fact I was able to easily peal it off the hull entirely. Is there any issue with leaving the flange on the starboard side? I was planning on just glassing over it.

Thanks,
I hope I don't screw this up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wisky Badger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2017 at 10:23pm
I think if you flash/tab the floor to the hull with two layers of 1708 you will have enough strength.   

I personally would removing the old tabbing area off both sides of the hull.   You have done so much work so far and it will probably take less than an hour to get it removed.   You want to make sure that you get a really good seal and bond in this area so you don't get water in your brand new foam.

As far as your floor layup, your glassing schedule will probably work. I would recommend going heavy on the glass because you used 2lb foam and US Composites says that their 2lb foam is not structural.   I used 3 layers of 1708 on my floor with 4lb foam and that might have been a little over kill.

Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-14-2017 at 4:13pm
Welp, I have not worked on the boat much at all over the past 3 months. I did get the foam finished and the wood under the seats installed as well as the wood floor support strips on each side of the bilge installed. It's nearly ready for glassing in the floor.

However I've had to take a long break from the work due to some personal issues. As a result I've got a very important bullet point for the "Lessons Learned" stringer list... make sure your spouse completely understands how much time will be involved in this project and is 150% okay with it.

Mine did not, mostly because I underestimated how much time it would take, and I was trying to rush the boat into service this past summer by working on it most weekends for months straight. Big mistake!!!! My wife filed for divorce and nearly ruined the lives of 5 people along with my plans for family weekends on the lake. Luckily we have stepped back form the ledge and are on the road to reconciliation.

I'm not laying my personal dirty laundry out there to be melodramatic, but rather as a cautionary tale to others about to undertake this size project. Don't be a hard-headed idiot like I was and forget what's most important in life.

Obviously the boat was not the sole cause of my situation but it absolutely contributed.

Not sure when I will get back on it but I still have hopes it can be back on the water summer 2018. I'll continue my updates once I restart.

... and I thought my tag line just applied to the boat...
I hope I don't screw this up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-14-2017 at 8:16pm
Best of luck to you with the spouse reconciliation project. I agree with you that we need to keep a proper balance between spouse, family, boat, play, work, etc.

I'm glad to see that you are working toward staying together.

JQ
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow
PB = 6 @ 22 Off
Aqua ambulo, ergo sum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2018 at 6:06pm
Well, I"m happy to say that I've resolved my personal issues noted above but unfortunately did not come close to getting the boat back in the water by this summer. In fact I haven't worked on it in a year. I did get to work on the trailer this weekend and that refurb project is almost finished. New paint and no rust makes it look 100% better. I did find a good bit of pitted steel under the wood bunks when I removed them last year. I cleaned them out and filled in the worst places with puddle welds and the rest with bondo.
However I'm concerned about it happening again and considered putting some type of water proofing mastic or liquid between the paint on the rail and the wood bunk since this area will remain wet the longest. Has anyone ever done this? Not sure what product would be best.
Hoping to get back on the boat project soon.
I hope I don't screw this up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote andrewmarani Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2018 at 7:29pm
Congrats on making it through the marriage crisis. Been there, didn't work out, started over a few years later and that has been awesome... Pretty much comes down to figuring out in what ways you are an idiot and need to grow up and fixing that.

On the trailer. I stripped mine down probably 10 years ago and found the same issue on the tops of the channels. After hammering out all of the rust, I primed and used rustoleum to protect everything and put it back together. 2 years ago I noticed rust and stripped the bunks off again, cleaned the tops of the channel down to steel and used bondo to make it smooth. reinstalled the bunks. Looks good so far. First time I used a double stick waterproof tape between the bunks and the channel, figured it would help seal out the water. Obviously didn't work and added 50% to the time required to clean stuff up for the second repair. Second time, I just painted everything well and put the bunks on directly over the paint.

Couple of suggestions. I used trex composit decking for my bunks, not wood, highly recommend that. I also installed a gradually tapering piece of trex under the bunk to curl the bunk to match the changing angle of the hull. I could tell from the marks on the bottom of the boat where the bunk hit, so I used a level and a bevel square and figured out the angle of the hull every two feet, then I cut the taper piece to match. It isn't a perfect fit, but it's way closer than the original bunks.

I used gray trex and thought about leaving off the carpet, but decided that the trex was too slippery, so I wrapped them in carpet after bolting the bunks down. I used the double stick tape under the carpet (on the tops of the bunk) and it has worked well there, carpet hasn't moved and the only wear spots in 10 years are where the bow lands as I power the boat up the trailer.

I used the same trex for the two vertical boards that hit the front of the boat to stop it's forward motion. I screwed stainless steel hose clamps to the boards (two on each), left the clamps loose until I put the boat on the tailer against the boards, then snugged them up.

While I had the trailer apart I replaced the wiring. I didn't want to scratch up the new trailer paint with those wire holding clips that slip over the edge of the channel, so in the inside corner of the channel, every two feet, I put a dab of rubber caulk and placed the wire in it, taped the wire down till the caulk set. 10 years later it's all still secure. Make sure you use shrink tube marine connectors and stainless steel screws at any grounding points to the trailer.

Seems like everyone tears up the last bit of wire between the boat and the truck, so I stopped the wire short inside the trailer tube and used a 4' tail with trailer connectors on either end to run the last few exposed feet, so I can replace it easily when I finally snag it on something.

And finally, the best license plate holder ever.

Edit:
http://www.socal-fishing-hunting.com/BOAT-TRAILER-LICENSE-PLATE-BRACKET-HINGED.html

I do not get how to do the hyper link thing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2018 at 7:51pm


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2018 at 8:21pm
Thanks Andrew for the kind words and lots of helpful suggestions. I like the idea of using composite bunks since it won’t absorb water like wood. Should help with the rust on the top of the rail too.   Maybe I’m thinking too much about protecting under the bunks. I’ve tripped down all the rusted and loose paint areas and primed with a high zinc Sherwin Williams marine grade primer (two coats) and three coats of SW oil based enamel. I do not want this thing rusting again!   I had the exact same concern on the wiring so I welded large fender washers in side the rails every 2’-3’ to rune the wire through. And yes I will use water proof connectors. I’m changing all the lights to LED and I added a prop guard to the back of the trailer.
Wonderful idea on the sacrificial pig tail on the front. I will do that as well.

I will also look into the trex idea.

Thanks again.
I hope I don't screw this up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2018 at 9:57pm
Just FYI, Bondo is a moisture magnet.

Under bunks is not a good application for it.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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