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Glass Layup Schedule on '82 2001?

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Nautique Newby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2019 at 11:11am
I've taken the fins off the bottom of the keel a) because two were bent and I want to straighten them and b) I'm sure they haven't been removed in 37 years and the screw holes could be a source of water leakage into the sealed area of the hull. I noticed the tips of these screws penetrating the inside face of the hull when I had all the foam stripped out. I meant to put some layers of glass over it to seal but forgot before I re-foamed.    That's what you get when the project gets stretched out for so long.

Therefore I want to reseal the fins to the hull (3M 5200) and seal around the screws themselves. Any recommendations on what to use? Looks like the original was plumbers putty between the fin and hull and in the screw holes. Would like something more permanent but probably not 5200 permanent. I want to be able to get the screws out in the future if say a fin breaks.

All the fins were ready to fall off as soon as the last screw was loose.
I hope I don't screw this up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samudj01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2019 at 11:15am
I’d use the same thing to seal the screws. Some like 4200 better. 5200 will do the trick too. If you seal around the bottom of the fin between hull and fun, all you have left is around the head of the screw. We put some in the holes too for good measure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aghaydon993 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-19-2019 at 9:24pm
Thanks Andrew. I didn’t see your email back.. Anyways your sketch did help me. So I’m an electrician from Indy and I bend conduit frequently. The original tubing is basically “1-1/4” rigid conduit” which in the electrical industry is 45$ per 10’ stick.. salty. So used galvanized “water pipe” which is 25$ a Stick. Which is the same OD.. so they come out to be within an 1” of the old tubing to be in length. I just cut the stick in half to 60” I bent them and turned out to be perfect.. so one thing I did, I left the threaded end down where it attaches to the trailer and I’m planning on screwing a “threaded flange” to the trailer. Pictures would help if I could figure that out..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2019 at 12:38am
I removed my strut that was bedded with 5200, used a few Wooden Door shims and tapped them in between the strut and the hull Worked them in side by side until it popped off. Cleaned up the hull with a very sharp gasket scraper and was good to go. Did not take long so I put it back on with 5200, it is strong and works although many say they like the 4200 better because it is easy to replace.
Either one should seal fine against a water leak.
!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2019 at 12:14pm
Progress on my boat has been very slow but I'm just about ready to paint the bilge. The fiberglass ferring has been quite tedious... apply then sand, apply then sand... I'm sure I'm going overboard with it but I wanted a very smooth bilge to avoid collecting dirt, oil, etc.

I"m also cutting the loose plywood flooring that covers the bilge behind the motor hump. The piece I took out was in bad shape so it is not reusable. That old piece also laid on top of the floor on either side of the bilge. Since the back of the motor hump sat on top of this piece of wood flooring (hump hinges were fastened to it as well), it created a gap between the hump and the floor. To fix this I wanted to have the top of the new piece of flooring sit flush with the fiberglass floor on either side per the attached pic. I plan to add a couple of supports to the secondary stringers to support the edge of the wood floor so it doesn't tip.
Obviously the boat hull is going to move and flex some during use. To avoid potential pinching of the boat hull/stringers into the wood floor during this flexing (and thus the wood flooring stressing the stringers and floor on either side, I will leave about 1/4" gap on both sides. My question is (and I realize I may be asking a open ended technical question) does anyone have an idea of how much the boat hull will flex and is 1/4" on each side enough?


I hope I don't screw this up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2019 at 12:42pm
Looks great!

however 1/4" gap on each side just sounds huge to me

Thats a 1/2" when the board is all the way to one side

Flexing shmexing, non issue i believe.   like milkjug polyethelene thickness each side is sufficient

If your panel is built rigid enough, i don't think you need to compromise the muffler wells with something fixed over them to support only 6" of cantilevered panel.. But i would keep it modest if adding a lip.

Have you considered making all the over-bilge pieces out of coosa with a couple layups on their top and bottom surface?
When there is any water present, these surfaces get the most exposure

If i were working on another project, and i will eventually, thats the way i would go.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2019 at 2:16pm
Thanks Ski for the input.

Agreed, 1/4" prob is a lot on each side. but I really didn't want to stress the boat in places it wasn't meant to be stressed. The flooring piece will have a piece of blocking on the bottom where the hump hinge bolts to the floor so this will keep the floor from wandering around between stringers.

I wouldn't think the flex would be much perp to the gunnels since the transom in the back and the bulkhead and flooring under the seats would stiffen the hull. But I wasn't sure enough to move ahead without more experienced opinions.

Unless someone else has a vastly different opinion of the amount of movement I'll probably cut the gap in half and move forward. I'll need a support on the secondary stringers regardless.
I hope I don't screw this up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2019 at 2:25pm
Originally posted by Nautique Newby Nautique Newby wrote:


Agreed, 1/4" prob is a lot on each side. but I really didn't want to stress the boat in places it wasn't meant to be stressed. .

Allen,
I'm curious as to why you feel or who told you the area is under stress.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote andrewmarani Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2019 at 2:35pm
Don't you need to leave enough space for the carpet on either side of the gap to turn down into the gap? Or to have a plastic T cover the raw carpet edges? My boat has the plastic T stapled to the removable plywood through the down leg of the T.

If NOT using the plastic T, I would think that leaving enough of a gap for two layers of turned down carpet to fit snug, but not hard against each other would give you room for flex but not allow the plywood to move around.

If using the plastic T, I would make the gap on each side between boards the thickness of the down leg of the T plus no more than an 1/8".

A free 1/4" on either side is too much space.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2019 at 2:37pm
My concern is generated more from "what if" rather than certainty. That is I presume that the boat flexes to some degree when splashing thru the water/waves, If the boat were to flex in an axis perp to the gunnels and close the distance between stingers, I didn't want the plywood floor to suddenly be the stiffest member in resistance to the flexing and thus introduce stress where it touches the secondary stringers, perhaps cracking fiberglass or breaking the stringer loose from the hull.

Again, this is all supposition and I may be over thinking it. But given the amount of time and effort that's gone into this project I didn't want to run the risk of damaging my work without getting more expert opinions.
I hope I don't screw this up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2019 at 2:41pm
I plan on using the vinyl transition strip to cover the gap. So yes, the gap would be reduced by the thickness of the down leg.
I hope I don't screw this up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2019 at 3:08pm
Maybe if one were driving about with the deck off the boat but he hull and deck are not only 'twice' as thick as its contemporaries but the hull/deck combination creates a reinforced incompressible box structure that inhibits movement in that plane, as well as others..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2019 at 3:18pm
thats one way, but If your gaps are tight and square, and use a proper latex adhesive, you can get a barely perceivable transition just laying down the carpet then scoring the gap with a razor after its dry, no plastic trim or bunching of material

for example, this is after 24 seasons of use since install..

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2019 at 3:27pm
Very Nice!! Clean with no trim to come loose.
I hope I don't screw this up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2019 at 3:42pm
Thank you,
Also, by keeping the carpet entirely topside, bilge water doesn't progressively wick up when sloshed on acceleration, and stain your hard work. eventually the oils and wetness and ..well you've seen its effects
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2019 at 4:04pm
You’re not getting a nice seam like that with thicker carpet... and if it ever frays or runs then you’re hosed. I would wrap it just a few inches (both pieces) as they have been doing for many years- the bilge water doesn’t migrate to the top side. You’ll need to adjust the gap for the wrap. 1/2” total is a bit much even if you go with trim (id aim for 1/4-3/8”).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2019 at 2:36pm
Update; After months of work on the bilge, spreading fairing epoxy, sanding, repeat and repeat and repeat some more, I was finally able to get the first coat of bilge paint on. Since this boat stays in the garage under the house and we're at winter's doorstep, I'm running out of weather suitable for doing this painting outside. That bilge paint is strong smelling stuff and nothing would shut this project down faster than stinking up the house with it. So in an effort to get the bulk of it done, I did leave out some select areas that weren't quite ready (around the rudder arm and stern and the bulkhead behind the battery compartment). I figure those can be done in small batches in the garage to reduce the fumes.

This is a major milestone on this stringer job! At least in my eyes it is

I hope I don't screw this up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BrianSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2019 at 4:12pm
Oh my! That engine is BEAUTIFUL!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67 ski nat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2019 at 11:42pm
Oh. The bar was just raised,
Much respect
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique Newby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2019 at 12:27pm
Second coat is on. Looks like I'll need a third, but running out of suitable outdoor temps. Still have some areas to paint and touch-up.
BTW - I did decide to take the time to create a perfectly flat surface on top of the stringers for the engine cradle and furred out the stringer sides at the horizontal bolt locations so the cradle fits snug. It's subtle in the pics but it's there. Wasn't too hard to do using thickened epoxy with fibers and plastic wrap slip sheet, set the cradle in place with a spreader at the back in, weighted it down and let it set up.

I hope I don't screw this up!
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