Corrode battery terminals |
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knewt
Newbie Joined: January-27-2007 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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Posted: April-23-2017 at 11:33pm |
1984 Ski Nautique 2001
Symptoms - starter not turning over, dash gauges not working once the key turned to "ON", 12V present at the solenoid. Real issue - the copper battery wire on the positive side corroded the inside plate that squeezes the wire down to attach to the battery terminal. It was trouble to diagnose because I would have 12V to the dash and to the solenoid but once I turned the key to "START' everything would drop to 0V. Didn't find it until I measured from the top of the battery post to the positive wire at the battery and it would drop 12V across the connection if a tried to start. The negative terminal is also showing signs of considerable corrosion as well. Six months ago, I replaced the battery terminals with new ones, cleaned the wire ends up well and thought I had nice connections for the foreseeable future. Still using the original battery ground/positive wires and took considerable effort to get them cleaned up but still just marginal in my opinion because of the built up gunk on the wire ends and possibly a ways down under the insulation. Questions - How do you avoid battery terminal corrosion? Should I replace the wires and start over? If I try again, what terminal type should I use? And should I use some sort of corrosion prevention spray to keep this from happening again? Looking for some advice from anyone who has gone thru this issue and has found the answers. Thanks in advance! |
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OldSchoolBlue84
Gold Member Joined: December-02-2012 Location: Valparaiso, IN Status: Offline Points: 814 |
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What kind of battery your using? Marine or regular automotive group 65 starting battery?
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Kostas
1984 Ski Nautique 2001 |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Kent,
New cables with crimped on terminals would be my suggestion. The "repair" battery terminals are always vulnerable to corrosion due to the exposed copper. Then a good cleaning of both the battery stud and cable terminal with a wire type terminal cleaner. There are also red and green felt pads that have a neutralizer in them that go over the battery stud. You may have seen them at the auto supply. They work and don't leave the mess like the old way of putting grease all over the termination. |
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knewt
Newbie Joined: January-27-2007 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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Battery is standard automotive.
I was already using the red/green felt pads. It definitely kept the corrosion down on the battery but the galvanized metal on the "repair" terminals are a mess. I'm wondering if the cleaning chemicals I used on the cleaning of the old wires didn't create the problem. Anyways, I believe the crimped on terminals are the way to go for my situation. What gage wire do I need? Can I buy these at custom lengths or should I make my own lengths with new wire and a crimper tool? Is there a good source for a place who will make custom lengths? |
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OldSchoolBlue84
Gold Member Joined: December-02-2012 Location: Valparaiso, IN Status: Offline Points: 814 |
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I had good success soldering my connections with the pre flux terminals. Very easy and purchased at NAPA auto store.
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Kostas
1984 Ski Nautique 2001 |
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fanofccfan
Platinum Member Joined: December-13-2009 Location: North Bend NE Status: Offline Points: 1777 |
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+1^ Soldering is a great method when replacing the ends. Easily done and well worth the effort.
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