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Help Noob Determine Interceptor Engine Size

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    Posted: May-01-2017 at 1:38pm
Hello, I'm a noob about engines and was given a 1968 Correct Craft with a 165hp Interceptor engine in it from my uncle. I'm trying to determine what size engine it is as I was told at the parts store they need that info to hook me with the correct parts.

The model is 165RS
The Spec says 104
The owners manual is here even though I can't find it anywhere inside: https://www.correctcraftfan.com/Downloads/1968_interceptor.pdf

Any help would be greatly appreciated as it needs a tune-up before it goes in this year and it's getting warm already! Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Orlando76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2017 at 1:59pm
Only use a reputable inboard parts retailer as auto parts will get you in trouble quick. I can't really think of tune up parts being different for sbf. But the marine conversion companies will make a difference. Almost certainly it's a 302. Google difference between 302 vs 351. Head bolt sizes are different as is block heights. I guess it could be a 289, not sure of differences between 289vs302.

I like using skidim.com. Christine's marine, N3 boat works, and nautiqueparts.com are all good too and help/sponsor this site.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2017 at 2:05pm
Originally posted by Orlando76 Orlando76 wrote:

Almost certainly it's a 302. .

I'd say it's a 289
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2017 at 4:04pm
Here's a little reading for you

interceptor manual

Page 4 is pretty useful, whole manual is actually

Page 1 of your original link seems to have what you need to know too.

289 raw water cooled, right hand rotation

Page 19 has your firing order which is the early small block ford order not the later one that you'll see more often mentioned here on CCF. That's if the engine is original.

You can check the FO by working your way around the cap counter clockwise.

Page 26 has specs and 35 has a wiring diagram just to mention a few good pages.

Edit.... the 2 manuals are the same depends on whether you're reading the original page numbers or the ones on the computer screen. You just subtract 3 from the numbers I mention to have the original page number printed back in 1968 that you got from the reference section.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vandykd3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2017 at 6:32pm
Thank you so much.   

So, I now see the info I needed was right there all along but that I didn't know that engine displacement and engine size are the same thing. I googled what engine displacement is and see it's commonly specified in (mainly in North America) cubic inches    I feel a little dumb not knowing simply things you all take for granted so thanks for helping me out.

I'm just going to replace the spark plugs and wires as well as the distributor and points for now as well as change the oil of course. Everyone tells me it's not that hard to do those things and my neighbor is engine savvy and ready to help. Not really sure if there's anything else I should be thinking about doing to it, but as long as it's running good, can I assume it doesn't need anything?

So far, the only thing noticeable about this engine is that it doesn't start too easily. I have to engage the throttle a little to get it going then ride a fine line of keeping the throttle in the right spot while it warms up or else it'll stall. Once it's warmed up, it starts right up no problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2017 at 6:41pm
You may want to list the components you plan to use here before purchasing including the oil, Also change the trans fluid if you are unsure when it was done last.
Write the hours and date on the oil filter with a sharpie for future reference.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2017 at 10:17pm
Sounds like you might be new at this, so a couple other tips as you get it water-ready.

When you run it in the driveway, do not run it dry. Be sure to give it a water supply. This is most easily accomplished by removing the water intake hose from the thru-hull fitting by the transmission, sticking a garden hose into it and clamping the intake hose to the garden hose. If you have been running it dry, there is a chance that you cooked your water pump impeller. If you did run it dry, let us know and we will walk you through that check and fix. Also, once you have it running on the hose, do not put the boat in gear. You will fry the rubber bearing in the strut.

As far as it not loving to start and run when cold, your tune up should address that. A little gas isnt unusual to get these old ones started. They all have their unique sweet spot. Mine likes two pumps of the throttle then a little throttle to turn the key. Usually starts right up with that. Once started, it may sound a little rough, although it should run at absolute idle, with no throttle. It may until it warms up and the choke opens all the way. Normal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vandykd3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-02-2017 at 8:12pm
Thank you everyone for your knowledge and advice. You've really helped set me on the right path. Thankfully, I have not run the engine out of the water so I don't have to worry about that, but thanks for the warning. Since I read all your posts, I've done some research. I've learned some things and encountered needs for further advice/clarification.   

Spark Plugs:   The manual says Champion UF9Y plugs. They're still for sale on Ebay and elsewhere, but apparently I can simply use an alternative plug. This website here has two links to alternatives and there are different plugs listed on each one. Can someone help me figure out which is correct or if there is a superior plug I should select?

http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/UF-9Y
http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/UF9Y

Spark Plug Wires: My basic question is how do I know how to order the correct type and lengths. Am I understanding correctly that I need a stainless steel core wire for marine use? The wires are really easy to access, so would high performance wires be a waste of money?

Engine oil: The manual recommends 30w (MS) for warm weather operation. What does the MS stand for? Do I simply walk into an auto parts store and ask for it? Or is this obtained from a marine supplier?

Transmission Fluid: Automotive Type "A" suffix "A" is listed. Researching this got really confusing about which ATF to select as there are different brands and generations to sort through. It's looking like some formula of Dexron, but I could really use some guidance here!

Distributor and points: Someone told me to replace these as part of the tune-up. The manual says distributors seldom require extensive repairs. Not sure what that would mean, but should I do this? Remember, I have help from two of my neighbors who have all the tools and enough knowledge to work on their own cars their whole lives.

Other than that, I guess I need to clean the carburetor. It floods easily on a cold start and the manual says this is caused in many instances by dirt, water, or other foreign substance in the carburetor. Is this easy to do?

Again, many thanks.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-02-2017 at 9:35pm
I'll give you some suggestions in the order you asked about things. I'll say suggestions because all of this stuff have something else substituted depending on somebody's personal preference.

Autolite 45 plugs will work just fine (it's a short easy to remember number }

Get a reasonably priced set of suppression type plugwires. Nothing special or marine specific about them but suppression wires keep radio interference down as you cruise by the neighbors house.

The MS oil designation disappeared long ago. If you used a 15w40 diesel oil of any brand you'd be fine,but you'll get all kinds of opinions on oil Shell, Chevron, Mobil Uncle Wally's Super Tech for a few examples.

A Dexron 3 transmission fluid also will be just fine. Borg Warner manuals will tell you this .Early on the Ford type A suffix A was used then Dexron 3 was recommended after that.

You may want to replace the points, distributor cap and condenser not the whole distributor. You'll need to know what brand distributor you have or take a picture and post it here.

You mention neighbors with experience, they should be able to help you with a carburetor job and with the distributor. If you take a picture of it with the flame arrestor removed and post it somebody will tell you what it is.

Both the carburetor and distributor would have had ID tags or stamped ID's on them originally. They may still be there to help you identify them.

Like I said, you'll get other opinions on most of this stuff based on personal preferences people have but all this stuff will work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vandykd3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 7:34am
Thanks Keno. That's a great help. Looks like I'm really close to having identified all the correct parts and products to get.

One final question about plug wires. When I buy them, will they automatically be the correct lengths just by telling them it's a Ford Interceptor 289?

As far as the distributor goes, I took a couple pics hoping that'll help you advice me on what to get.

It's a Mallory distributor, Model: YL   Type: 519 BO   



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 8:24am
Sierra marine part numbers for Mallory YL distributors Scroll down to the 519 Dearborn listing.

Some plug wires may need to be trimmed in length if you purchase a kit.. For vintage engines, I've always bought wire and ends separately and make up the length needed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 9:09am
The Sierra numbers will work if you go to your local NAPA store. Make sure you read the notes in the page Pete linked. Yhey'll tell you the complete tuneup kit with the cap is 18-5272 and the price is better than the individual parts

If you want some Mallory part numbers here you go

points    25042

condenser    400

cap   221

rotor 319

Keep in mind that you have the crab cap as it's called and you can't substitute a regular stack style Mallory cap because they have slightly different diameters and it would be a loose sloppy fit on your distributor.

Plenty of places on line for the Sierra 18-5272, here's one example
.
crab cap tuneup kit
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 9:13am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

I'll give you some suggestions in the order you asked about things. I'll say suggestions because all of this stuff have something else substituted depending on somebody's personal preference.

The MS oil designation disappeared long ago. If you used a 15w40 diesel oil of any brand you'd be fine,but you'll get all kinds of opinions on oil Shell, Chevron, Mobil Uncle Wally's Super Tech for a few examples.

Like I said, you'll get other opinions on most of this stuff based on personal preferences people have but all this stuff will work.


What ever oil you use, make sure it has ZDDP content between 1200 and 1500 ppm, that is critical to protecting the flat tappet cam.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 9:16am
You of all people referring him to Sierra! Let me do some searching for part numbers,l have the same distributor,got my genuine Mallory parts at Summit. Not cheap cap is 50,points around 20,rotor about 15 but good quality stuff, for example the Sierra cap has aluminum contacts,the Mallory has brass.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 9:20am
Look a couple posts back Gary, I gave him Mallory numbers.

You could double check my numbers just to be sure though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 10:07am
I have got to type faster some where though I have the official list
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 10:40am
Gary,
FYI, the only reason I posted the link that has the Sierra parts is if you click on the actual part, there are OEM selections! Also, As Ken mentioned, Napa can use part numbers to cross reference. I also printed out the list because my 312 has the Mallory and I figure in about 15 years I'll need a tune up! But, I'll also wait to see if you can find your list or use Kens.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 10:41am
I think it's in Quinner's interceptor thread that Pete actually admitted to having a Sierra tune up kit for his Dunphy but of course he never used it   

Quinner had the normal cap so the rotor and cap numbers would be different but the condenser and points are the same.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 10:47am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

I think it's in Quinner's interceptor thread that Pete actually admitted to having a Sierra tune up kit for his Dunphy but of course he never used it   

Quinner had the normal cap so the rotor and cap numbers would be different but the condenser and points are the same.

Ken,
You are correct regarding the Sierra kit mentioned in CQ's Classic thread. In my own defense, it was before I had access to the internet up here searching the internet wasn't as good as today plus, the real big one is I didn't ask you to come up with the part numbers!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 10:54am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Gary,
Also, As Ken mentioned, Napa can use part numbers to cross reference. I also printed out the list because my 312 has the Mallory and I figure in about 15 years I'll need a tune up! But, I'll also wait to see if you can find your list or use Kens.


It's not much of a cross referencing job, since the part numbers are the same and they come from the same warehouse in Litchfield Illinois

It's just one big incestuous industry where plenty of outfits are related through being bought out by bigger outfits and all those old names are either gone or owned by a big conglomerate.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 12:42pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:



It's just one big incestuous industry where plenty of outfits are related through being bought out by bigger outfits and all those old names are either gone or owned by a big conglomerate.


Yup. I ordered a new mallory distributor from CP Performance in CA last year, I found them by searching the distributor. Anyway, the package arrives and its from Sierra, in the mid west (IL?) and is a Sierra part with a Sierra number. although it is the exact mallory distributor. I later learned that mallory marine sold out to/became Sierra.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vandykd3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 12:47pm
You guys are great. Your help is making this possible for me. Can't believe there's so much nuance to parts and products!

Other than hoping my new spark plus wires are the same lengths, it looks like I'm good to go. Guess I'll head over to NAPA this week(end) and pick things up unless you think I should order online from one of this sites sponsors or somewhere. Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 2:33pm
Aw Hell, buy local at NAPA.

Usually if they don't have the stuff which may very well be the case they can have it the next day.

That'll keep Pete happy too
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote swilliams Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 5:29pm
While you're in that distributor, check the advance springs. They're a little harder to come by if they're bad.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2017 at 5:47pm
Originally posted by swilliams swilliams wrote:

While you're in that distributor, check the advance springs. They're a little harder to come by if they're bad.


That's an understatement.Good point Steve

Every now and then a YL spring kit will show up on EBAY usually for a ridiculous price.

I won't say whether or not I've paid that ridiculous price at one time though
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Where do you boat ?
there is a reunion this July on Lake James you should plan on attending
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Yo, forgive the late responses. It's a busy time of year!

So, I've gathered all your help and advice and any final questions:

Spark Plugs: Autolite 45 plugs

Spark Plug Wires: Reasonably priced suppression type wires. Should I buy wire and ends separately and make up the length needed as suggested by 8122pbrainard, or is there a fool proof way of getting them the correct length?

Engine Oil: I'll use a 15w40 diesel oil of any brand knowing you guys have all kinds of opinions on your go-to brands!    However, whatever oil I use, I'll make sure it has ZDDP content between 1200 and 1500 ppm since that is critical to protecting the flat tappet cam (whatever the hell that is )

Transmission Fluid: A Dexron 3 transmission fluid also will be just fine.

Distributor: I'll replace the points, distributor cap and condenser not the whole distributor. I'll keep in mind it's a crab cap distributor and be sure to stick with that type. I'll be sure to buy the complete tuneup kit with the cap to save money. While I'm in there, I'll check the advance springs. I'll have to do some research yet on what exactly those are and how to check them, but if they're bad, am I hearing keno correctly that I'd have to look for vintage replacements that cost a *************** load!?

Carburetor: I've forgotten to deal with the carburetor as mentioned by keno many posts above. He said it should have ID tags or info stamped on it to help identify it. Do I need to identify it and replace it? Or am I just cleaning it?

Parts: I'll be getting this stuff from NAPA down the street from me. If I understood correctly, I can use Sierra or Mallory part numbers because they are the same number and come from the same warehouse? I'm a little confused because a few posts up, Gary S said he has the same distributor and got his genuine Mallory parts at Summit. Though they're not cheap, it's good quality stuff, for example the Sierra cap has aluminum contacts while the Mallory has brass. If the part numbers are the same, how can they have different contacts? I'm hearing brass is better.

Reply to dochockey: I boat on West Lake in Portage, MI about 90 minutes from Lake James. It's August 9, and I'll definitely look into attending!   

Final things: Other than that, I'll be sure to follow the directions in the manual when doing this work. I remember seeing in there that you have drip a few drops of this on that or smear a little bit of that there and stuff like that. Once I'm done and it's purring in the water, I'll be sure to update a pic of your handiwork! You all have been so great.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-06-2017 at 12:18pm
Originally posted by vandykd3 vandykd3 wrote:

Yo, forgive the late responses. It's a busy time of year!

So, I've gathered all your help and advice and any final questions:

Spark Plugs: Autolite 45 plugs

Spark Plug Wires: Reasonably priced suppression type wires. Should I buy wire and ends separately and make up the length needed as suggested by 8122pbrainard, or is there a fool proof way of getting them the correct length?

Engine Oil: I'll use a 15w40 diesel oil of any brand knowing you guys have all kinds of opinions on your go-to brands!    However, whatever oil I use, I'll make sure it has ZDDP content between 1200 and 1500 ppm since that is critical to protecting the flat tappet cam (whatever the hell that is )

Transmission Fluid: A Dexron 3 transmission fluid also will be just fine.

Distributor: I'll replace the points, distributor cap and condenser not the whole distributor. I'll keep in mind it's a crab cap distributor and be sure to stick with that type. I'll be sure to buy the complete tuneup kit with the cap to save money. While I'm in there, I'll check the advance springs. I'll have to do some research yet on what exactly those are and how to check them, but if they're bad, am I hearing keno correctly that I'd have to look for vintage replacements that cost a *************** load!?

Carburetor: I've forgotten to deal with the carburetor as mentioned by keno many posts above. He said it should have ID tags or info stamped on it to help identify it. Do I need to identify it and replace it? Or am I just cleaning it?

Parts: I'll be getting this stuff from NAPA down the street from me. If I understood correctly, I can use Sierra or Mallory part numbers because they are the same number and come from the same warehouse? I'm a little confused because a few posts up, Gary S said he has the same distributor and got his genuine Mallory parts at Summit. Though they're not cheap, it's good quality stuff, for example the Sierra cap has aluminum contacts while the Mallory has brass. If the part numbers are the same, how can they have different contacts? I'm hearing brass is better.

Reply to dochockey: I boat on West Lake in Portage, MI about 90 minutes from Lake James. It's August 9, and I'll definitely look into attending!   

Final things: Other than that, I'll be sure to follow the directions in the manual when doing this work. I remember seeing in there that you have drip a few drops of this on that or smear a little bit of that there and stuff like that. Once I'm done and it's purring in the water, I'll be sure to update a pic of your handiwork! You all have been so great.   


You got a few names mixed up at times but who cares

Gary has Mallory part numbers in the chart he posted. Can't beat Mallory parts for their distributors but the NAPA/Sierra will work fine, depends what you want to spend..

If you get a universal wire kit the wires are plenty long and you can cut them to length before installing the ends.

Just clean the carburetor and install a rebuild kit. Put a picture here or some numbers from the carburetor.

Put those neighbors to good use but make sure they know they're working with a reverse rotation boat engine
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2017 at 7:32pm
Did you figure out which engine you have? The casting number will give you the year. Just because the boat is a 68 doesn't mean it has a 68 engine. A lot back then had blocks and heads from the year before. My 66 Mustang had a 65 block and 64 heads. How many bolts are on the bell housing? The casting numbers will end like C8 which is 68, C7 is 67 etc.
Tim D
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