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2008 SANTE Limp Mode/Check Engine Light

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AnthonyB View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-04-2017 at 6:20pm
Hello,

Would appreciate any insight on the topic, trying to troubleshoot a limping boat.

Boat is a 2008 SAN 210 Team, PCM 343, 1000+ hrs, my first CC =).

Was enjoying a nice set this morning when engine went into limp mode. Restarted a couple times, any attempt to accelerate puts it back into limp. Not receiving any type of buzzer warning or flashing codes on Faria gauges. Just a solid check engine light.

Began noticing the prior evening that check engine light was remaining on (never flashing, just solid) at higher speeds/RPMs. I originally mistook this light for a Walter V-Drive low pressure warning, but I have since read this indicator was dropped when PCM began using their own V-Drive. Even when light was on, boat functioned normally, not sure what happened between night and the following morning.

Engine oil level good (although close to a change interval), transmission fluid level good, V-Drive oil level good (pulled one fill/drain plug, appeared to be right at the threads, did not draw any out as I didn't have proper equipment but from the bit dribbling out appeared clear). All gauges I believe are functioning properly; oil pressure was building at higher RPMs (per gaugues), never dropped very low. Temp started low before reaching the middle of the dial then stayed there.

After checking fluids I began playing at the dock with the transmission disengaged. When in neutral light is off. As lever gently moved forward but before RPMs increased, light would come on. I thought this in particular was puzzling, because just moving the lever caused the light to come on, even though engine had not yet begun building RPMs. When actually building RPMs light stayed on, again solid light no flashing. With transmission disengaged, was not having throttle cut out as it does when out on water.

This is my second week using the boat for season, first weekend operated several hours at slow/towing speeds, no issues and never noticed light.

I guess a primary question is what sensor tells the ECU to enter limp mode? I find it strange my gauges are all reading good, but that the ECU must think there's a temp/oil pressure/some other issue.

Appreciate any suggestions on things to check, thank you.
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quinner View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2017 at 12:42pm
There should be an error code, otherwise have you tried disconnecting the battery and then re-connecting??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AnthonyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2017 at 12:53pm
I'm trying to avoid taking my boat to the marina just to scan for a code, does anyone know if there is a reasonably priced unit where I can scan a code myself?

The Faria gauges are not flashing one of the built in Severe Conditions or Warnings.

My thinking is the only way I can diagnose given the symptoms, is with a scanner.

I will try disconnecting the batteries to reset the computer. From what I read this should effectively 'hide' the CEL for a bit (which I assume is triggering limp). If there is a bad sensor (or conversely a good sensor with an error not supported by Faria) I'm guessing it will come up again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AnthonyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2017 at 12:47pm
Follow-up:

Can anyone confirm IF I have correctly identified and replace the bad sensor, will the ECU adjust accordingly and stop throwing the code that triggers limp? Does it take a certain number of engine cycles, or should it occur immediately?

I'm trying to diagnose my issue without scanning the code. I understand that the code stays 'stored' in the ECU and that can only get cleared with a Diacom, but I want to confirm that so long as the bad sensor is replaced, that the ECU stops forcing the boat into limp.

The lever movement triggering the CEL before engine began building revs, led me to diagnose as an issue with the TPC/TPS.

I disconnected both battery terminals on each battery, left them off for ~30min, then tapped both sets of connectors together in attempt to discharge capacitor (read somewhere this is how they do it on cars). I read this can reset the ECU/clear any active or stored codes, not sure it did anything besides waste my time =P

Reconnected the batteries, disconnected the throttle cable from the potentiometer, turned on the engine, then sat by the engine compartment and manually manipulated the lever on the potentiometer. Looking up towards the helm, the slightest pressure applied to the lever would turn on the CEL, when released CEL turns off after a few seconds.

I ended up getting:
https://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/potentiometer-assy-2/

I thought about only buying the TPS, however the part # does not match the PCM manual. My understanding is the entire potentiometer unit includes the correct TPS built into the assembly.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AnthonyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-19-2017 at 10:55am
Update: Issue solved!

Installed potentiometer, in that assembly is included a Throttle Control Position (TCP) Sensor, that I assume is the sensor that went bad.

After install, turned on engine, without engaging transmission gently increased engine RPMs and CEL stayed off. Happy to report after a full weekend of riding never had the CEL return.

When I have time I'll submit a new post about my experience installing the part (if anyone knows of a post with same subject please link me, I did not find one during my search, happy to add if one is out there already). What I found is you can get away with only removing one of the bolts and simply loosening the others.
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