1961 correct craft inboard/outboard

Gary S wrote: It looks to match up with the one I referenced to on eBay Art. And it looks sort of like the ones in the brochure thats been posted. I thought the Debonair's were big but maybe over the years the name has been reused?

Yes, Gary; I believe that the Deboaire name was re-used a few times. I have seen a couple of different spellings of it in the archives, not sure if it's an error or intentional. There is a fiberglass one in the barn at Southeast that is a tri-hull with that name on it.

Joe,
Regarding the value, that is a difficult question. Yes it's unique but also I can say not really sought after so, a buyer will probably be hard to find. The $$? I can honestly say that if you had a pro restore it, the cost would be more than the value around 3 to 4 fold. It's the man hours that cost the $$. Projects like this are typically done by individuals with a "labor of love" attitude. As a reference, I have seen similar boats go for around $500.    

Also does any know a ball park in value. I am able to find prices for inboards. But I can't find anything on this.

It looks to match up with the one I referenced to on eBay Art. And it looks sort of like the ones in the brochure thats been posted. I thought the Debonair's were big but maybe over the years the name has been reused?

This is an interesting project. First time I've seen it; have been absent from the forums recently. It sure would be interesting to determine what we called this model. We built some various models all called Debonnaire it could be one of those. Have you found evidence on it that it is in fact a Correct Craft? Many companies built wooden I/O's.

Joe,
Rot may be hidden. The typical spot would be low between the transom frame and the ply skin. That especially with an I/O is the low spot in the hull. Both the bilge coated with epoxy and especially the glassed bottom is the "kiss of death" for a wood boat. Both trap moisture. A thin layer of glass over a wood hull that does have movement isn't strong enough so it cracks. Sorry to say but from the first pictures you posted showing that hardware wasn't removed before stripping varnish/stain told me an amateur has been at it!!   

Joe,
The start to any wood boat restoration is to strip all hardware, engine, trans, etc. Anything that isn't wood needs to come off. This will also aid flipping the hull for bottom work. I suggest starting there first. Any boat is worthless unless it has a good bottom. One thing of key importance is how CC constructed their ply hulls. They used a bedding compound between all the frames and ply skin that over the years dries out. This leaves nothing but screws holding the ply on. Removing all ply may be needed so it can be re bedded with a modern adhesive/sealant like 3M 5200. Removing the ply will also give you a better opportunity to inspect the frames and do any repair on them. Ply gussets at the knees, keel and stem are a common problem since the same bedding compound was used on them. Keep the pictures coming and your progress posted.

Yes to the bilge pump

Joe,
Two of the knobs would be for the choke and running lights. The 3rd may be for a bilge pump IF a PO added one. Is there a pump in the bilge? There also will be the keyed ignition switch and then a starter button if the ignition switch isn't a 3 position.

I figured for the skiers I just didn't know the name lol. Also would any of you know what 3 knobs on the dash are for ? I will post pics later

The pylon is the metal bar in the center of the boat correct? Sorry this is my first boat I am still learning

Just crawled underneath and no numbers

I have to ask as I informed everyone I am brand new to boating the pylon is the bar in the center of the boat correct?

Nice Pylon can't believe the bend and it still in the place it should be...

Pull the back seat upright out and there may be a number stamped into the wood cross member. If so it will be a Letter indicating Model, 3 digit production # and the 2 digits for the year.