'97 Ski restoration - a few issues! |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Calum,
It's good to see a great restoration over on the other side from us. Keep up the great work. |
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
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If your Perfect Pass is the only thing giving your low voltage issues at this point, another way to handle that, which might be easier, is to give the PP its own relay.
This works by getting a power feed for the PP, directly off of the battery positive terminal for the switched power portion of the relay. Then, the ignition switch (or an accessory switch) just switches the relay, instead of having to power the PP. This takes the electrical load off the more delicate dash wiring. Joel explained this method here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21539 |
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Goldcup101
Senior Member Joined: August-27-2016 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 104 |
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For the earth, I ran a new bigger cable to the engine block which is dedicated to the busbar. I hope trhat would solve it and while it has helped, it still isn't truly stable. Thanks for the live suggestions, that is next on the list now! No idea if that will help with the tacho though which has power but refuses to operate properly.
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
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Wow, really looks nice!
As far as your perfect pass voltage issues, you'll probably need to do a little more beefing besides just the ground (earth) busbar. You'll have to run a new ground wire from either your battery negative, or your engine block to the busbar. It's ok to keep the original ground in place. This should help things in general. For the Perfect Pass though, you'll want to also run (probably do this at the same time) a new red positive feed from the protected side of your breaker, to the input side of your ignition pushbutton on the dash. That will help a lot, but if it doesn't, you can do a busbar for the feed coming out of your ignition breaker and going into the input side of the other breakers and the key. |
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Goldcup101
Senior Member Joined: August-27-2016 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 104 |
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I know you guys love pictures so here's the boat (pretty much) finished. Many thanks to everyone who has offered advice, it is very much appreciated. I hope I can reciprocate as my knowledge level grows!
It is getting a final set up from a marine engineer as it needs the timing checked, Tachometer and Perfect Pass voltage issues sorted (earth busbar hasn't fixed them) and the mixture/idle carb problem troubleshooting. Boat needs stereo and speakers installing, hinge on ice locker reattached, hull waxed, pop up cleats installed (will disguise old tower mounting holes) and new engine cover net. Steering is a bit stiff so a new steering cable and a bimini top already planned for this winter. It's been a lot of work but very much worth it and I've learned loads. Having a resource like CCFan has been incredibly useful - thanks again! Calum |
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Goldcup101
Senior Member Joined: August-27-2016 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 104 |
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The engine is idling at around 900rpm which is obviously too high. At that engine speed I think the idle circuit is bypassed isn't it? If I reduce the idle towards 700 it stalls at even at 900 it nearly stalls when putting it in gear. It is pretty clear that something isn't quite right somewhere and I'm pretty certain it is the carb but I am far from expert on these matters!
Thanks for the confirmation on the hours meter - wasn't sure about that. |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21125 |
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Yes hour meter is run by the ign feed.
You cannot judge the responsiveness of the idle circuit with the boat running at 2200, the carb is on the transition and mains by then. Anything that draws a decent amount of current (like the horn) has the potential to disrupt the perfect pass with the engine off... those electronics don't handle blips below 12v very well. |
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Goldcup101
Senior Member Joined: August-27-2016 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 104 |
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Thanks to all thos ewho recommended an earth busbar. That has solved a number of issues. Tacho seems to be working but can't be sure until monday. Horn now working fine, fuel gauge no longer fluctuating and Perfect Pass alarm issue seems to have been solved. A remaining bit of weirdness is that blipping the horn with the engine off resets the Perfect Pass, almost like a power interrupt. Will find out monday if the same happens with engine running.
Figured out why the choke isn't working - the bimetallic coil had become detached inside. I've glued it but still not convinced it is working though I'm not sure whether the coil should be tensioned one way or another before catching it on the tang. If I just put it on straight, rotating the choke cap has no effect on the choke plate position so something isn't right. Have got 10V at the cap so not sure what's going on there. Have ordered a new choke cap for next week. Voltemeter showing 11v with a new earth, shoudl I have been expecting 12v? Carb seems to have some issues which could be down to errors in my Dad rebuilding it. The idle is too high, closing the starboard mixture adjustment still allows the engine to run when I know that it should stall and when exceeding around 2200rpm in gear, the engine bogs down (too much or too little fuel) and won't recover until you back off the throttle opening. Seems to rev out of gear ok but haven't held sustained revs out of gear so not certain. Since the carb is way outside my comfort zone, I'm giving the boat to a marine engineer on monday. Figured I could chase my tail for weeks looking for the issues when he should get it sorted, along with timing check etc, pretty quickly and then we can start actually using the boat. Stern decals now reapplied, screen back on, rubrail back on, interior being reinstalled today, one side of hull buffed and polished and other side on the agenda for today or tomorrow. Gold pinstripe lines and 'Ski Nautique decals' going on tomorrow but don't want to rush them since they're $100 each! Will try to get some photos up in case anyone is interested. Also noticed that the hours meter counts with the ignition on rather than just with the engine running. Is this normal? if not, where should the feed to the hours meter come from? At the moment it is powered with the ignition switch. Not sure this is correct. |
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Goldcup101
Senior Member Joined: August-27-2016 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 104 |
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No dripping fuel from boosters on shutdown so doesn't seem like a needle valve issue. Established today that the choke isn't working so will check the voltage on that tomorrow then choke internals if voltage is ok.
Got the screen off, dismantled, stripped and undercoated all without breaking the glass thankfully but it wasn't easy getting the frame off the glass. Don't think it's been off since the boat left the factory! Hopefully get that back on tomorrow along with a ground busbar installed which I'm hoping will address a few issues. Also changed oil, filter and transmission fluid and did first pass on bow section with 3M super duty which, as everyone has been telling me, really is great stuff. Trying to get rubrail back on tomorrow but I'm probably being optimistic - trailer brakes need looking at too! |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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For the warm start problem, it might be dripping fuel after shutdown. You might want to look down carb right after a shutdown to verify.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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Goldcup101
Senior Member Joined: August-27-2016 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 104 |
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Fuel sender fixed. Thanks Pete!
Tacho still screwy as is idle. Wires arrived yesterday so think the bus needs to go in before I chase my tail any longer. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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That post/stud on the tank should be the grounding point. You can confirm it with the VOM (volt Ohm meter) set on the Ohm scale. The other grounding location typical for the tank is one of the sender mounting screws or some senders even have a quick connect tab spot welded to the sender base plate
While you have the VOM out, check between the ground wire that's back under the aft deck and the engine block. You should get a near zero Ohm reading. Sounds like you need to clean up all the electric connections in the boat. Also, have you run any better + and - wiring up to the dash yet? |
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Goldcup101
Senior Member Joined: August-27-2016 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 104 |
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I think we're getting somewhere! I am aware of some bad earth issues and have a busbar ready to go in but weird issues below seem to confirm earthing:
After turning the tach switch behind the instrument a few times, it indeed sprang into life though at "idle" (who knows what speed that is at present) it indicates 1400rpm. The Perfect Pass is earthed through the tach (great eh?) and the Perfect Pass now briefly lights up when the engine starts and also resets itself if you blip the horn (told you it was weird!) When it briefly comes to life, the PP indicates around 900rpm. 1400 is nonsense but 900 is possible - my ear isn't finely tuned enough to know what 650-700 sounds like. What is certain is that if I back off the curb idle screw, it will stall so it could be idling at the correct speed. Even when warm though, it won't start at idle unless you give it a small prime first. It will then start at idle, race slightly due to the prime then settle into an even idle. I have always thought it should start at idle without priming when warm? Cannot find an earth to the tank and the aft navigation light isn't wired up which could explain something though fuel gauge worked before. The anchor light i smissing so I'm not bothered about wiring it up, I just want rpm and a fuel gauge at the moment. There is no earth to the fuel fill and it isn't clear where an earth should attach to the tank though there is a small nut on a post sticking out of a metal plate on the top of the tank between the breather hose and the engine supply outlet. Is that it? I'll just run a new earth from filler to fuel tank to engine block once I figure out where to attach earth to tank. I did try earthing that post mentioned above but no movement on gauge so either there is something else wrong or I'm earthing the wrong thing! |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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There should be a ground wire typically from the engine block back there. Besides supplying a ground to the tank, it should also go to the aft navigation light and also grounding the fuel fill. |
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Goldcup101
Senior Member Joined: August-27-2016 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 104 |
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Great! What would I do without CCFan?
Cheers guys, will try both of those today. Where does the tank earth usually attach? |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Go to the back of the tach,you should find a 3 position switch. Turn that several times and try it.That is a switch that changes the tach to work on 4-6-8 cylinders and seems to get dirty contacts and then make a poor connection. Turning it cleans the contacts
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Calum,
On the fuel gauge, make sure the tank is grounded. It's the ground source for the gauge. When you reinstalled the tank, maybe you forgot to connect the ground wire? |
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Goldcup101
Senior Member Joined: August-27-2016 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 104 |
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Hi all,
Masters Edition 97 restoration nearly finished; hope to get it in the water next week. A few small queries. 1st, even when warm, the engine still needs a bit of throttle to start then it will idle fine when you throttle back. I thought that when warm they should start on the turn of the key with the lever at idle. Wondered about choke adjustment but shouldn't be that when engine is warm surely. Any ideas folks? Eng is 285hp HO carb 351W. Maybe idle set too slow? (can't tell speed due to issue No 3 - see below!) Mixture screws? 2nd. We've had the tank out and now fuel gauge has no indications but worked before.. Any suggestions for what I have dislodged or forgotten to reconnect properly? Duff sender? 3rd Tacho has some power (though maybe poor) as needle flicks sometimes but no indications. What should I look at first for this? Bad earth? Boat has Perfect Pass in case that makes a difference. N§ew coil fitted. 4th Not a problem as such - Screen aluminium surround needs painting so going to remove screen and get frame painted but am sh*tting myself about breaking the glass. Any advice on how to avoid that catastrophe would be very welcome!!! Many thanks guys! Calum |
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