230 HP OMC Carburetor

By the way you have a 6 inch diameter harmonic balancer so every degree is .0523 inches or 10 degrees would be .523 inches.

So from tdc to 10 degrees is .523 inches, 20 degrees would be 1.05 30 degrees would be 1.57 inches and 36 degrees would be 1.88 inches if you making a homemade timing tape or you could just buy one from Summit, Jegs, maybe a local parts store.

So..................boat runs good with the Mallory E spark conversion in it, the cap is gonna get replaced with the new one you ordered and the carburetor seems like it's treating you just fine.

The carburetor is marine, I wouldn't worry about that at all.

I'd look for a good used cheap Mallory marine distributor like a YL624 AV that you could put your module in

the 19.25 is the circumference unless you got yourself a really huge harmonic balancer .

Don't throw away the points plate, but take them points and stomp on them till they are totally broken and say "take that Pete" over and over while you're stomping on them Just the points not the plate, keep that as a spare with a new set of points.Your distributor has the later YH advance mechanism. A real good distributor, just not Marine certified.

And one last thing, check your PM's.

Update:::: Sea Trial.

First I was asked to measure the diameter of the Harmonic Balancer. 19 1/4 inch or 52.5 mm. This measurement was for timing.

So I launched the boat, opened the engine cover and started it up. First thing I noticed was the idle was set much too high. It was fine last time I ran the boat. I set it back to 650-700. It had a very smooth idle. I idled out of the marina. At 1,500 RPM it's doing around 12 MPH. I advanced the throttle to 2000 = 20 MPH. Slowly advanced to 3,000, right around 30 MPH. Lot of wind. So I pushed it avid more, prior to making the adjustments that had been suggested 3,200 was all it would make. This time it jumped to 4,000, so I advanced it a bit more and saw 4,600. It was too choppy for me to look at my phone. But it was quick. I think it will make close to 5,000. It was just to rough to get full wot. So things are much better after removing the point set. Now I have to figure out what to do with the non marine compliant Carburetor. I turned the engine off at the dock. Turned the key to see if it would restart without a lot of throttle and it started immediately with no throttle. The electronic module seemed to do the trick.

Tony D

I did check e Bay, I ordered a new one for $36 shipped. I wondered if that contact had been broken for a long time. The picture shows it laying in the bottom of the cap. For the brief moment I started it, (on it's trailer) it seemed to sound different. I plan on taking it out tonight if it's not raining.

Thank you for your interest and help. It's a pleasant surprise how much help a person can get using this forum.

Tony D

Gents,

Tonight after work I started working on this engine again. I removed the distributor cap and much to my dismay the carbon center electrode fell out. Apparently snapped off about midway into the cap.
I removed the off center points to take a picture of the springs and weights. I can't upload pictures responding by phone? Everything was very clean and working well.
So I decided to remove the cam lobe and install the electronic module.
It was fairly straight forward until I attempted to remove the positive terminal from the coil only to have it break off. So $35. Later I installed a new coil, wired everything up put the carbon piece back in the distribution cap, turned the key and it started immediately. I know I have to get a new cap. $45 for that beauty.
I also wrapped tape around the harmonic balancer, removed the tape, laid it flat on the gunnel to be measured. Forgot my ruler. I'll get that done tomorrow. So that's were I am today. Tomorrow maybe a short sea trial.

See how it does.

Tony D

Do your weights and the plate look like the ones in my picture or are they different?

No need for a picture if you know the answer to that question

Tony

Could you take a picture of the distributor from right above with the points mounting plate removed so that the advance plate that's under the points plate can be seen?.

Just want to see what kind of advance mechanism you have and from there I may have a suggestion for a marine distributor solution for you.

It's the round plate in the lower left with the point cam on it, it might look like this, it might not

KENO wrote: I almost thought we were agreeing again Pete, but circumference is Pi times the diameter or 2 times the radius times Pi

Ken,
Thanks for the correction! Yup, it's been a few years since I've used the formula! Damn calculators have spoiled us old guys! (and the young as well)

I almost thought we were agreeing again Pete, but circumference is Pi times the diameter or

2 times the radius times Pi

If you can measure the diameter of your harmonic balancer, it would be easy to come up with a homemade timing tape with marks at o 10 20 30 35 degrees using a little math.

Chevy had a few different diameters so if you could measure and post it that would be helpful or if you can find a part number on it that would be just as helpful

Gents::

I did notice the slight offset between the two sets of points and rotated the engine accordingly. It was a pain setting the points because they were flopping around. I checked to see if the points were correct to the distributor, they are, and in the picture they are shown misaligned? That's odd.

On the timing. There is the single engraved line on the harmonic balancer and the little arrow attached to the block. I noticed people have affixed a tape type measure to the harmonic balancer which gives an accurate reading. The timing mark on my engine was about 1 inch north of the marker at 1000 rpm. Moved about 1..25 inches at 3,000rpm.

If I opt out of using the Mallory, what's a good replacement?

Thanks everyone,
Tony

Might it not just be easier to remove the secondary point set and see if he can get it to run before adding another variable?

Dumb question... you aren't setting the gap on both sets of points at the same time, are you? There is a mechanical offset between the 2 sets (the purpose of having dual points is longer total dwell) so you'll need to rotate the engine slightly between adjusting the 2 sets. The follower needs to be on the tip of the cam lobe when you set the gap. Checking dwell afterwards is a good idea too- this will tell you if they're both working well together.

Regardless, if that isn't a marine distributor, you'll want to replace it. Don't take Ken's lighthearted description as anything but a serious explosion hazard.

adaily wrote: There is a difference in the part number from all the like distributors I looked at on line. I could not find a single one with the part number ending in an A There are 2548201 numbers but not 2548201A Once I finish the other tests recommended above I'll see about acquiring a "Marine" distributor. Tony

That N at the end just signifies changes or variations over the years

In the beginning there was the 2548201, first variation had an A tacked on the end......then the next was a B .............you can figure out the rest

That basic part number has been around probably since the small block chevy showed up in 1955

2548201 H is what I was meaning to say. It's the H that doesn't show up anywhere but on my particular distributor.