1993 SN Just Started Running Bad |
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Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
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Posted: August-15-2017 at 6:55pm |
DG - Sorry, mine came built from the motor factory with the P-heads attached, I didn't have any of the valve shimming work to do as it was all pre-set. TRBenj, or Eddie, or Joe in NY are all guys who have done this, there are several others too, but I don't remember who at the moment.
On the throttle cable, see if you can check the diary posts for engine set ups? I am not sure mine is correct either or i would post . glad the heads worked out for you! |
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Delta Greg
Newbie Joined: June-28-2017 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 15 |
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Ok I put on the GT40P heads this weekend. Boat is running a lot better. Did anyone find that they needed to adjust the rockers by shimming or different length pushrods to get the correct hydraulic lifter preload when they switched to the new head?
Also, when we hooked the throttle cable back up to the carb, I don't think we got the throttle cable hooked up right. Can someone with a carb take a picture of the side of the carb where the throttle cable hooks in? |
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Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
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you can purchase the heads pre-drilled and with the brass plugs. I am running P's on my boat. you may need spark plug wires too, since the plug angle is different, but that is only if your wires were pretty tight to begin with.
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10662 |
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There's no down side to using GT-40P heads.
Good power increase, Easier to change spark plugs due to the plug angle They have to be drilled out to 17/32 of an inch for the 351w's 1/2 inch head bolts, no tapping needed. Do a search on here or Google "Correctcraftfan gt-40p" and you'll be able to stay up all night reading about the head swaps. |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Yes,they just need to be drilled not tapped and then the P's bolt right up. Brass core plugs are nice to have too. Sparkplugs have no issues with manifolding on boats only on cars |
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Delta Greg
Newbie Joined: June-28-2017 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 15 |
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I did hear some funny noises from the engine. Wasn't sure if it was compression, fuel or timing related though. We thought maybe the ignition was screwing up and retarding the timing since I've read about all the ProTec problems.
The heads that are on there now are the stock, base model heads. The one that the valve seat broke on also had a crack on the outside that we re-repaired with JB Weld. I found out awhile after I bought the boat that the first owner fixed the cracked head with JB weld 10 years or so before I bought it. Not sure if that had anything to do with the valve problem. Will GT-40 and GT40P heads bolt right onto the stock PCM 351W block? I've read mixed info about the spark plugs in the GT40P not fitting with 351W exhaust manifolds and the head bolts in the GT40P needing to be drilled and tapped from 7/16" to 1/2". Do people have any experience swapping these heads into their boat? |
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Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
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GT40P heads are cheaper than standard GT-40 heads, and will serve you well from a power and compression standpoint as well the as plug angle change being nice for maintenance access. if your engine originally had GT-40's and they are in re-buildable shape, you might get some trade in value from them.
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10662 |
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Seems like you must have been hearing some new, different and funny noises with a pushrod/rocker arm rattling around when your issue started.
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Delta Greg
Newbie Joined: June-28-2017 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 15 |
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Update: Nothing to do with fuel/carburetor. Ran compression check and had no compression in cylinder #8. Pulled valve cover and one of the rocker arms was so loose against the top of the valve it rattled. Pulled head and found one of the valve seats had separated from the head so exhaust valve was stuck open. Piston hit valve but cylinder wall looks OK and piston is dimpled but doesn't have a hole. Now I need to round up a new head or pair of heads...
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cbr1000dude
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2011 Status: Offline Points: 330 |
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Jeez, I touched a nerve didn't I. Why don't we concentrate on trying to help this guy with his boat as he requested rather than go on about starting fluid.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10662 |
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What are you feeling bad about Chris? You told the OP to hook up a small gas tank to his fuel pump and try running it. That's no more dangerous than filling a gas can at the gas station or a variety of other things you'd do with gas like mowing the lawn as an example.. Your words sound good to me.........................common sense Maybe in his first post CB Dude should have told people about the flammability and dangers to people of spraying starting fluid around if he was gonna talk about the dangers of gas. |
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MrMcD
Grand Poobah Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3594 |
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Starting Fluid/Ether - maybe you have not see the results but I have. Pistons broken is most common damage, I have even seen an intake manifold blown right off an engine by poor use of starting fluid. Do I ever use it, Yes, am I very careful when I choose to use it. Yes. A direct spray into a carb with starting fluid results in one, maybe two pistons getting most of the fluid. This concentration is enough to blow up and cause damage.
If you have two people have one turn the key to get the engine spinning while the second gives a quick shot towards the carb top. Doing it while spinning gets a more even mix into all 8 cylinders and each gets a much smaller amount. Still dangerous but far less dangerous. I keep an old lighter fluid can in my garage with gasoline in it. It puts out a small squirt of gas when needed and is much easier to control than a Gas Can or other container. Still dangerous if used badly but reduces the amount of danger quite a bit. The lighter fluid squirt is controllable enough that I can make a 350 Chevy idle fine even when not hooked up to a fuel supply line. Works good when determining fuel related issues. As others have already mentioned it sounds like you have lost your fuel supply through the main jets of the carb. Maybe dirt or crud is inside the carb blocking the jets. The fact it is trying to start with pumping tells me the accelerator pump circuit still has fuel so the bowls must still have fuel in them? |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Well I guess I have incorporated common sense into handling of volatile liquids, for so long, I forget to remind peeps not to take unsafe chances.
Good callout Dude |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Carb inlet fitting is 1"
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Absolutely but, ether having a flash point of -49 F and our typical gas at 45 F, ether is by far the more dangerous! Many have found out the hard way. Also, with the solubility of ether at 2.47 which is way higher than gas, it will wash anything off those cylinder walls. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Greg,
I suggest some grease or anti seize between the flare nut and the flare but NOT on the sealing surface of the flare. This will allow the steel tubing to slip in the nut when you tighten it. If you don't, a common problem is the steel tubing will wind up clockwise when you tighten the nut. Then, with engine vibration and the steel tubing wanting to move back counterclockwise, it loosens the big flare adapter in the carb. |
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Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
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the carb side is either 7/8 or 1" IIRC, and the fuel line inlet side is 5/8. I use a normal wrench on the big side, it doesn't require much torque. it's nice to use the correct wrench on the f uel line side though.
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Delta Greg
Newbie Joined: June-28-2017 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 15 |
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I have flare end wrenches from 3/8 up to 5/8 in 1/16 increments. Not sure how big I need. Anyone know? I can't picture how big the two sides are.
Thanks. |
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Jonny Quest
Grand Poobah Joined: August-20-2013 Location: Utah--via Texas Status: Offline Points: 2846 |
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It's called a "flare end wrench" |
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Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
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cbr1000dude
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2011 Status: Offline Points: 330 |
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You may also want to have a new metal fuel line.
http://www.skidim.com/FUEL-LINE-PCM-302_351-FORD/productinfo/RA085002B/ They are easy to crack and leak when removing them, mine did. Since you have to drive so far to get at it, make sure you have the right wrenches to hold the carb side while turning the fuel line side. with a proper wrench meant for going over metal tubing (the name escapes me at the moment). Yours might already be buggered up from someone using a slip joint pliers or vise grip wrench in the past. The brass fittings are real soft. |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10662 |
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Like Pete said,you can just clean the one you have, no need to get a new one unless it's really ugly or maybe somebody removed it.
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cbr1000dude
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2011 Status: Offline Points: 330 |
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It's available here
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R024025 |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Greg,
It's just a screen so you're good with cleaning it. |
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Delta Greg
Newbie Joined: June-28-2017 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 15 |
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Hey guys, thanks for the responses. I'd kind of rather not have the thread turn into a starter fluid argument thread. I'll consider both sides there and do some research on that elsewhere.
Now, I have a question about that screen where the fuel line enters the carb. Is that just a screen that I could potentially clean out if it's clogged, or is there a filter in there that I should replace? I kind of want to have whatever filters I might need to buy in hand before the next time I drive out to work on my boat. It's stored 45 min from my house. |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10662 |
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Starting fluid or gas, either one's gonna do plenty of damage to the human body if you're not careful with it.
Key word to me is careful |
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cbr1000dude
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2011 Status: Offline Points: 330 |
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Seems like we've(these 2 forum members) have had this conversation before about the harsh effects of starter fluid vs raw gas. We'll have to agree to disagree. Playing with raw gas is dangerous to people, which are more important than any supposed damage (they are oiled from under the piston) to the cylinder walls. This is bad advise! Think about it! I saw a guy on fire when I was a kid and went to school with a boy with a fire scarred face. Bad things can happen.
That aside, bypassing the whole fuel delivery system with starter fluid is a better diagnostic test. If it runs fine while spraying starter fluid in the flame arrestor (which also may be clogged by oil mist and dirt, check it out with a strong light), then you know it's not electrical in nature. Fuel, spark, compression and timing is all it takes to run an engine. Check it out in that order. Autozone has a tool lending program for free (with deposit) so you may need a fuel pressure tester, compression tester or timing light as you work through this. Write down your results and take Iphone photos And keep a fire extinguisher handy and wear safety glasses, gloves and long sleeves. Seriously! |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Greg,
I agree with Chris regarding hooking up the carb directly to a small can of gas. The problem may be something as simple as a clogged anti siphon valve at the tank. If it still runs the same on the small tank, then a carb rebuild would be my next recommendation. I also strongly agree with him NO starting fluid!! |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Starter fluid is pretty harsh on cylinder walls, it washes off the oil coating. Try hooking a small gas can up to the fuel pump for a test, that will eliminate hoses, separator, venting issues, etc without much work.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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cbr1000dude
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2011 Status: Offline Points: 330 |
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Sure sounds like it's fuel related. Try shooting some starter fluid in the carb and see if it revs up. There is a screen where the fuel line enters the carb that can clog.. Bad gas or water in the gas can also be the problem. A failing fuel pump is another possible cause.
Starter fluid should make it rev real well if it's anything I mentioned. Rebuilding these carbs is possible also if you want to try. Recarbco in Pittsburg will tell you if yours needs rebuilding. Since your choke doesn't work, that at least should be fixed. But a $4.00 can of starter fluid is a cheap place to start. |
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