1976 Ski Nautique Restoration Project

Looks like a nice start for a great project. Being your Grandparents is icing on the cake.
Check out here the first one or the third one should work even though yours is not a PCM. You can go here to get 10% off too.

I was just guessing, I would have thought it was a Commander conversion back in those years. Commander was eventually bought up by PCM. Yes on that first metal line,thats what was on there originally,some where along the way someone cut some off and added the rubber hose.

Rob,
The metal line from Skidim works although there may be some slight tweaking needed on the bends.

Your carburetor pictures tell me a few things about your carburetor

One is that the 4 bowl plugs, 2 on each bowl have been epoxied over, probably because they leaked at some point. Or at least the 2 top ones that are visible have been epoxied.

In this link to an old thread you can see what the plugs look like. There's an O ring that goes bad and plenty of people have epoxied them with good results.

It also looks like a later carburetor than what came on the 76 PCM's based on where the fuel pump overflow line taps into the carburetor and also the non externally adjustable float bowls that came along in later years.

None of these are bad things by the way. Kinda tells me they did some maintenance and replaced some parts to keep it running good

If you're looking for a rebuild kit for the carburetor, find the list number on the air horn to help you get the right kit. Here's a picture of where to find it
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KENO wrote: Looks like they also put on the rubber rub rail with a rope insert that didn't show up till after 76.

Ken,
I thought the rubber/rope came in 78 but I certainly could be wrong. My 77 has the old aluminum J.

Anything else you guys think I should check/replace right away? How hard is it to remove the fuel tank? There's some debris (and very old gas) in it so I'd like to clean it out.

lots of you tube videos on rebuilding Holleys.   I think if you have a pulse and a desire to rebuild one, you can probably do most of it without help.    There are a few things that will get you, but if you lay everything out in an organized way, and go through the process meticulously, there aren't many places that will hang you up.    There is a special clutch bit screw driver blade that you will need to remove the secondary metering block, and Holley recommends a jet screw driver instead of a flat blade for removing/installing jets.    the rest is just labor, lots of scrubbing and blowing out of orifices with compressed air.   you need to soak carbs in a carb cleaning solution to get them clean, so invest in one of the bucket set ups from your local auto parts store.

Can anyone give me confirmation that the fuel feed hose I need is 3/8" I.D.? (Fuel tank to the engine)   12 feet should be more than plenty, right?

Thanks KENO! The hose one skidim is listed as A1, no mention of the 15. Should be the right stuff I'm guessing?

Sorry for 1000 questions, but currently there's an inline fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump. It's located just below the midpoint of the engine so it rests on the bottom of the bilge. Was this added by somebody after the fact or is it standard issue? Is there a better type or place to locate the filter?

Thanks! I'm hoping to have some time to work on it this weekend.

Can anybody offer any expertise on my fuel filter question?

Pretty Boat! Looks a lot like my 1978!

If you use barbed fittings and not hacked off metal fuel line you can safely use the rubber A1 hose from the pump to the carb.

That fuel filter isn't hurting anything.

I have a 76 Southwind with a rubber/rope rub rail.

I love the rubber rub rail too. When you careen into someones Blackfin,it cleans right off!

That's the Prestolite conversion for their own Prestolite distributors.

It's no longer being made but they were a dependable setup