1988 Ski Nautique 2001 Electrical Problems

Disclosure: CCF newbie - I plan to get my diary started as soon as I can get some good pics rounded up!

Background: I've owned my 1988 Ski Nautique 2001 since '05 - It's my baby. I've gone through some structural/cosmetic work (i.e. stringer replacement, new seat skins, carpet, etc.) and a some mechanical work (i.e. new coil, new distributor, etc.) I recently replaced the alternator and have had "electrical" issues ever since (i.e. low voltage gauge reading, temperamental kill switch, and now complete loss of electrical function). The other day, I was pulling my daughter on a wakeboard and the engine died like I'd pulled the kill switch - Dash switches all still worked (i.e. ignition, blower, pumps, engine cranks but wouldn't start). I was easily/luckily towed back to the dock where I poked around a bit in bewilderment (checked connections, etc.) with no success. This morning, I decided to temporarily by-passed the kill switch and it fired back up - I thought I had it licked (need a new kill switch). I took it for a solo cruise across a calm lake at 3K RPM watching the sunrise. After about 5 minutes, everything just went dead - This time nothing worked (no ignition, no blower, no pumps, no cranking - nothing). The wiring in the boat looks really old and seems like a rat nest (probably mostly original, but I can't say for sure). I'd like to overall the wiring completely, but I fear 1) that may not be necessary 2) it's a lot of time/money and 3) I don't know what I'm doing.

Request: I'm looking for someone who can take a look at my boat, troubleshoot/fix the electrical issues, and recommend a plan of action (replacements, upgrades, etc.)

Anyone within a few hours of Appleton, WI would be ideal!

Replaced old points distributor with optical (?) distributor, which if i recall required coil replacement, but that was back in '05 and has been awesome since. The alternator I don't remember where I ordered it from, but the old one broke (physically, when tightening during summarization), which was last year - That's when the issues started popping up.

ben.hlaban wrote: Replaced old points distributor with optical (?) distributor, which if i recall required coil replacement, but that was back in '05

Pete

Sure sounds like a whole distributor when you read the above.

And it sounds like a Mallory Unilite.

Is a one wire alternator something new to add to the list of things Pete doesn't like

8122pbrainard wrote: Ben, Have you done anything to confirm the alternator is charging? With the engine not running, you should get the nominal 12 volts at the battery. Then, with the engine running you will get 14 plus volts. Was the replacement identical to the old or did you install a "one wire" alternator? Is the distributor a complete unit or did you install one of the EI conversions in the old?

I used dashboard gauge to verify alternator (no multi-meter). At first had it hooked up wrong (had battery and ground mixed up). After I fixed that, gauge read ~10 volts at idle, but ~13+ volts with some RPM's. The replacement was not identical and it had a few more connection posts than the old (not sure what a "one wire" alternator is).

The distributor was a complete unit and a new coil (both Mallary, not sure what model). Can't remember if new coil was "required" with new distributor or if it was "recommended"

Engine breaker was not tripped and I don't see any breaker in the dash other than the toggle buttons and the one labeled "Ignition" appears to function fine (clicks in/out like all the others). Is there another ignition breaker under the dash? If so, I don't see easily see one - Do I need to take the dashboard off to get at it?

You got the right breaker, the ignition breaker.

Somewhere in that diagram you'll find your problem though.

Don't forget to check the obvious like battery terminal connections

I sense you'll be telling me to get a multi-meter out soon - I sort know how to use one, but don't know how to apply it to this situation (i.e. locations to test, what to test first, or even where to put the probes for each location)

I'd look at the diagram and see if you have 12 volts at the batt terminal on the keyswitch (that's where the red wire hooks to the keyswitch)using a multimeter

If you don't, then go backwards toward the battery checking the ignition breaker to see if there is 12 volts in and out and the engine breaker to see if there is 12 volts in and out even if the breakers seem to be not tripped. Next going backwards would be the connection at the solenoid.

You can check that all those connections are clean and tight too.

KENO wrote: I'd look at the diagram and see if you have 12 volts at the batt terminal on the keyswitch using a multimeter If you don't, then go backwards toward the battery checking the ignition breaker to see if there is 12 volts in and out and the engine breaker to see if there is 12 volts in and out even if the breakers seem to be not tripped. Next going backwards would be the connection at the solenoid. You can check that all those connections are clean and tight too.

Should I do all this testing without the engine running? Is so, I assume the key should be in the "on" (or "running") position? Also, can you confirm where to touch each probe (i.e. red to test point and black to ground)?

8122pbrainard wrote: The closest I would have come to saying something about them would have been not in a classic where originality is needed!

Hey Ken this is from a guy who has a land line probably rotary service too

Correct, it does not run.

ben.hlaban wrote: Correct, it does not run.

I got the feeling you'll find that you don't have 12 volts at the key in that path from the battery that we talked about a handful of posts back.

Even if your alternator has no output the boat would have run on just the battery for a while and your dash power wouldn't have gone away completely. unless one of those breakers tripped or you have a broken connection

Check those places we mentioned in the morning or when you have a chance

Here's a link to a recent similar issue that turned out to be the main breaker and tells where he got a new one in case that turns out to be your issue.

link

KENO wrote: I'd look at the diagram and see if you have 12 volts at the batt terminal on the keyswitch (that's where the red wire hooks to the keyswitch)using a multimeter If you don't, then go backwards toward the battery checking the ignition breaker to see if there is 12 volts in and out and the engine breaker to see if there is 12 volts in and out even if the breakers seem to be not tripped. Next going backwards would be the connection at the solenoid. You can check that all those connections are clean and tight too.

I was able to successfully use a multi-meter tonight to trace problem to the engine breaker.

Now, the question is what size?

There's a 50 AMP in there now, but the manual says 40 AMP and the link to the skidim part referenced earlier in thread is for a 40 AMP as well...

ben.hlaban wrote: I was able to successfully use a multi-meter tonight to trace problem to the engine breaker. Now, the question is what size? There's a 50 AMP in there now, but the manual says 40 AMP and the link to the skidim part referenced earlier in thread is for a 40 AMP as well...

Good job,Pete will be proud that you found it with a multimeter

The 40 amp will be fine, probably a better choice than a 50.

If you manage to trip a 40 amp breaker you have a problem with the electrical system anyways.