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ZDDP Question

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Riley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 11:36am
I used ordinary presumably low ZDDP Valvoline or NAPA, (same thing) 10W30 in my BOL's 1988 Mailibu Skier with PCM 240 hp from 1992 to sometime around 2005 when people started talking about ZDDP. Engine seems to run fine, but we have been using VR1 since.

When I say more modern, I'm comparing an 80's vintage to an antique like the early '60's 170 ci IL six in our Mustang. I guess I'm still influenced by the rumors way back when that said you would spring leaks everywhere if you switched from non detergent to detergent oil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 11:41am
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

When I say more modern, I'm comparing an 80's vintage to an antique like the early '60's 170 ci IL six in our Mustang. .

The key point in the importance of the zinc is not the actual age but if the engine has flat tappets or not.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 11:45am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Anyone who has wiped a flat tappet camshaft (That is already broken in) please let us know what type of oil you were using.

Not me personally since I've always used oils with ZDDP but, I did personally see two cams with lobes that barely had any profiles on them. In both cases, the engine owners switched to modern synthetics thinking they were "helping" the engines and not knowing the importance of zinc. One cam was reported to have about 50 hours on it and the other about 75.


Right, they were probably using something formulated with low ZDDP and an additive package not meant for an older engine.

Oil Protection

This is probably one of the best reads on oil/protection comparisons I've seen. Rotella/some other popular diesel oil ranks well and should be just fine for low spring/stock camshaft flat tappet engines.

Even looks like the "old" rotella had less ZDDP which everyone thinks was the other way around.

This shows its not all about the ZDDP level but the entire additive package. Looks like VR1 is top tier. Most likely quite overkill for our stock engines but good in high spring pressure/big lift/aggressive ramp rate applications. Certainly no determent to using VR1 other than I don't like to run 50w oil in an engine I had set up to run 30w in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 12:03pm
What are the symptoms of a wiped lobe on a cam? The ticking noise in the Mustang since I put the P heads on seems to be getting louder. I've adjusted /checked lifter preload several times. In the back of my mind I question the triple springs Tri State installed and wonder if they could be a cause?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 12:12pm
Could cause a ticking noise. Could cause a slight misfire or lower engine performance. If the cam lobe isn't worn below the ability of the lifter to compensate for lash adjustment I wouldn't suspect a tick.

Easiest way to tell if you have an issue would be to check the lift of each push rod with a dial indicator. If one is quite less than the others then you likely have a lobe issue.

My 351 cam/lifters have roughly 1900-2000 hours of use on them. Rotella since the day I put it together.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 12:16pm
I started using Cenpeco 15w40 in the flat tappet solid lifter hemi since the rebuild, not much forgiveness on a valve train there. Todd W turned me onto this stuff, It's not a off the shelf product but he gets it through a dealer (sort of like amzoil products) and uses it for all his farm equipment. The 15w40 has 1600 ZDDP.   Cenpeco 15w40

I had always used the Vr-1 20w50 in the 81 nautique and to be honest with you I never liked it, It was a little slow to the top of the motor when cold and I never felt the 50 was required so finding the Cenpeco 15w40 with 1600 ZDDP to me is exactly the right combination. It ain't cheap but neither is rebuilding a vintage motor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 12:27pm
Nice Alan, I am with you. As long as the viscosity/oil selection can protect at the operating temp thinner oil gets to parts much quicker and puts less load on the pump etc. Lots of wear occurs on cold starts.

Sounds like that stuff Todd is formulated for flat tappet diesel farm equipment. Just right for our use.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 12:40pm
Did a little more research.    Achieves 5,000PPM if whole bottle used w/4 .5 qts oil

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 12:55pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

What are the symptoms of a wiped lobe on a cam? The ticking noise in the Mustang since I put the P heads on seems to be getting louder. I've adjusted /checked lifter preload several times. In the back of my mind I question the triple springs Tri State installed and wonder if they could be a cause?


I was never able to keep a flat tappet cam under my tristate P heads... wiped out 2, or maybe 3 (haven't checked the one under them now). My plan is stick them on a roller 351 for a 1:23 to 1 boat ...

Once a lobe is really gone you will lose oil pressure, you can see it in compression testing before that, and in debris in the oil often. Checking the lift is the best way although without having the intake manifold off you cant know if any differences you see are from the lifter or from the cam.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 1:04pm
VR1 when wiping the cam Joe?

Do they install some pretty healthy springs down at Tristate?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MourningWood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 2:11pm
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

Nothing against all the modern racing oils like Joe Gibbs offering. If I decide to run 8,000 RPM I'll buy it but for my boat that rarely exceeds 5,000 RPM I'll run Delo, Rotella or any other brand that meets modern Diesel specs.


So, I don't own stock in Gibbs oil. I did, however, observe extensive oil testing on the Edelbrock dynos several years ago. Yes, these were flat-tappet race motors. Nevertheless, the Gibbs oil proved superior in every measure, including peak power. Oil life about doubled. Using since created. Internal engine wear remarkably minimal.

Yes, it's expensive @7.99/qt. Rotella is @3.50/qt. So +$30.00 for a 6-quart oil change.
But lasts twice as long, so difference really $15.00.

I can live with that. (IMHO)


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 4:26pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

VR1 when wiping the cam Joe?

Do they install some pretty healthy springs down at Tristate?


Triple springs if I remember correctly. 20 20 hindsight should have checked against my cam card spring specs. I had thought that since I had a broken in cam and ran the VR oil I'd be ok. This will be next summers project. Will do as Joe says with the dial indicator and will go from there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 4:32pm
See if J-Bear can come up and assist with the internal engine work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 5:07pm
If it comes to that I certainly will Zach. There must be a F 12 key on the back of the engine somewhere
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2017 at 10:17pm
Gary - I hd an engine (6 cyl chev) that had a bad tick, cause was a worn valve guide. Never got worse so lived with it & it got sold that way.

Someone needs to PM Billy Boat Dr so he can get in on the latest oil discussion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-09-2017 at 1:05am
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

See if J-Bear can come up and assist with the internal engine work.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-09-2017 at 1:29am
Gary you are describing cam lobe failure exactly.
Runs great, no noise, within a short period usually one lifter will start ticking and will gradually get louder. Most mechanics at this point say no big deal, one loose lifter.
Pull the valve cover and give it a half turn tighter and all is quiet again. About the time you think, that repair was easy it starts to quietly tap again.
This is because the nose of the cam lobe is wearing down and the lifter foot is cupping out.
The only fix is a new cam and lifter set.
This type failure never affects oil pressure.
The Most common cause is a slow start. Excessive cranking before the engine is started the first time. Usually when the installer has something wrong so they crank and crank while figuring it out.
If the lifters don't spin right away on start they will cause this failure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-09-2017 at 2:09am
If the cam lobe wore enough to expose the oil passage it could be a large oil leak but that would mean a half inch of lobe was worn away. I have never seen that.
I suspect you have a plugged oil passage or a missing block plug causing pressure loss and cam failure.
Note many core blocks will sit for extended periods before they are put back in service.
If the lifter bores get rust in them they can keep a new lifter from spinning.
This alone has caused many cam failures. 5 minutes with fine Emory cloth can eliminate this.
High pressure valve springs are another common cause.
I know engine builders that will break in a flat tappet high performance cam on light pressure springs and install the stronger springs after break in to avoid failure.
Factory springs only had 75-90 seat pressure. Your triple spring package is way above that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote curiouslibra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-19-2018 at 10:05pm
After reading this whole thread my question is:
Does a 1999 gt-40 have solid flat-tappet cams?
If not do I need a high ZDDP > 1200ppm oil?
My manual says for weather like here in Texas I should use
A 40w oil. Buxton marine says that using a multi weight oil
Will typically burn more and that I should stay with a straight
40w like what the manual recommends.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-20-2018 at 12:27am
What you actually have is hydraulic flat tappet cam. If they were solid you would have to adjust them,hydraulic ones self adjust. Keep in mind the manual was written 20+ years ago things have changed and Ford certainly has not kept up with testing obsolete engines.   If you can find a single weight oil that has 1200 ppm of zinc go ahead and use it. Many of us use 20w 50 Valvoline VR 1. I can get it usually under 4.50 a qt. There are many oils you can use, some cost more very few if any are cheaper- check with the manufacturer many of their web sites contain that data
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-20-2018 at 7:53am
Originally posted by curiouslibra curiouslibra wrote:

Buxton marine says that I should stay with a straight
40w like what the manual recommends.

Will,
Sounds like Buxton doesn't want to give out an opinion with just telling you to stick with what the old manual states. They didn't mention anything about ZDDP?    I certainly hope you don't have them change your oil!! BTW, what color oil filters do they use?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FredWSauer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-22-2018 at 5:31pm


Yep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-22-2018 at 5:49pm
As far as straight weight versus multi weight goes, I've heard both positions whether an engine that uses oil will use more if straight weight is used or multi weight is used. Which is it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-22-2018 at 7:23pm
Bruce, my opinion and experience is this - no difference in consumption between multi and straight weight. Difference in oil pressure is a different story, but in engines that consume oil I've seen them continue to consume oil of higher multi, or straight weight.

I have had direct experience with a change of brand/type of same weight having an effect on consumption. I have no idea why this is, but have experienced it several times.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-22-2018 at 7:40pm
Changing brands of the same weight having an effect is weird. My niece's boat uses some oil and she is switching from straight 30w to 20w50 in hopes of it using less. It'll be interesting to see if it makes any difference.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-22-2018 at 8:45pm
The Multi Viscosity oils are thinner when cold. If you have leaks, you will leak more oil.
The leak could be at the valve stem seals. Thinner oil can pass more than thicker oil so this could cause more consumption.
If your Piston Rings are good they won't care what oil you run. Rings in good shape will run fine on 5-20W and not burn any oil.
If you are leaking oil past the valve stem seals, just one drop per revolution can burn a quart of oil in 400 miles. What is that in a boat? I don't know, maybe 8 hours use?
I have run both Chevy and Ford V8's in my Ski boats the last 40 years and never needed to add oil between changes. Originally I ran 30W then switched to 10-30W but for the past 5 or 6 years I've run 15-40W Diesel Engine oil ( Delo, Castrol or Rotella ) to maintain the ZDDP at a reasonable cost.
A good engine will not care what weight oil is in it as long as it has the proper lubricants and is not too thick. 50W is pretty thick oil, I would certainly not go any heavier.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rosconole Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2018 at 11:51am
another view on ZDDP here with some options...

https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/classic-and-vintage/articles/reduced-zddp-and-wear-protection/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2018 at 12:42pm
Originally posted by rosconole rosconole wrote:

another view on ZDDP here with some options...

https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/classic-and-vintage/articles/reduced-zddp-and-wear-protection/

Ross,
Did you read the article?
Regarding tappet and cam wear, I do find this statement interesting:

"Because most V-8 engines of the muscle car era came standard with flat-tappet cams, the problem is especially prevalent to classic-car and hot-rod owners. In these applications, modern oils, such as AMSOIL synthetic motor oils, are capable of providing adequate wear protection after the engine has been broken in. But due to variables like severity of service and level of modification, AMSOIL primarily recommends high-ZDDP oils in these applications"

So, they too recommend ZDDP for our flat tappets!!

To me, it looks more like an ad for Amsoil!! ,


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rosconole Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2018 at 7:22pm
Yea just trying to get some more input for something outside of sae 40 W for 454 and changes in specifications . not an easy oil to find like it used to be and pricing all over the place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2018 at 7:28pm
Originally posted by rosconole rosconole wrote:

Yea just trying to get some more input for something outside of sae 40 W for 454 and changes in specifications . not an easy oil to find like it used to be and pricing all over the place.

Ross,
Are you going by what the manual says? I agree with Gary regarding multi weights:
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Keep in mind the manual was written 20+ years ago things have changed

Have you considered a multi weight?


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