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ignition trouble-coil question

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74SkiNautique View Drop Down
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    Posted: August-12-2017 at 3:05pm
Hey everyone, I think I have traced my ignition issues back to a bad coil. The points look good, gapped correctly, ballast resistor is good. I've got 12v going in, and 9v coming out. 9v at the coil as well. But, when the engine gets hot, it starts to miss, dies, and won't restart. I swapped another coil in that was laying around and she fired right up. Both of my coils are leaking oil so they're both trash.

What should be the ohm readings for the primary and secondary side of a good coil be?

what coil should I buy? Can I get one from an autoparts store or is there a specific marine one?

I've heard oil filled coils should only be mounted vertically. Is this true? Should I get an epoxy filled one?

Last question...are different coils used for points vs electronic? Because I have a coil that i believe is good from an 80s pickup truck, that system has no resistor so its getting 12v at the coil. can I put that coil in if its good?
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KENO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-12-2017 at 4:45pm
Skip the old coils

Go to an auto parts store like say NAPA and ask for a Standard UF-2 or FD-471. the FD-471 is what I've used recently, thats Standard Motor Products) or have them cross reference it to some other brand.

Edit, if they have a marine catalog they also would have an 18 5433 NAPA coil that will cost more but not work any better. Or ask for a coil for a 67 Ford Mustang with a 289.

It's about 1.5 ohms resistance and works with your ballast resistor.

Also it's probably under 20 bucks.

No need for anything fancy and high priced with your point system

It's oil filled and they've been mounted horizontally, vertically and even upside down for decades. Upside down was on some old 6 cylinder Chevy's if you're wondering
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74SkiNautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2017 at 12:38am
UPDATE:

Today I water tested the boat. No, I have not purchased a new coil yet. I used another one I had that had very few hours on it. No markings on it, i'm assuming it is a basic automotive coil. However, When checking things with the volt meter, I got what I think to be too much current going to the coil. I know I previously posted I had 9v leaving the resistor, which I did, but the engine was also idling. I revved up to about 1,500rpm and then checked. The voltage went up, I'm assuming the alternator kicked in and wasn't charging at idle speed. My results were 12.6v system voltage going into the resistor, 11v going to the coil, and 11v at the (+) side of the coil. Will this over-heat the coil, causing my issue?

Once everything got to full temp, I shut the engine off and same problem. Won't restart. Pulled a boot off a plug, put a back up plug in and cranked it. Very weak almost orange spark. I let the boat sit for an hour, fired right up, and with the engine running pulled a boot off to check the spark again, very weak spark. So now I have done this same test with 3 coils, all yielding same results.

Is my ballast resistor not resisting enough? 11v seems high to me.

Next question, would 11v going to the coil fry my points/condensor?

also...when cranking the engine, I was getting about 6v to the coil when hot. Could a bad ground somewhere cause this? which could be it wont startup? I ran the boat and drove around for 30 mins and it never sputtered once, it wants to run and i feeling like she's just begging me to fix her! haha

I'm getting very frustrated because I have not had one solid lake day this whole season.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2017 at 9:22am
I would replace the ballast resistor next.

Recommend the OE ohm resistance, sorry don't know that number in my head.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2017 at 9:51am
Add to your NAPA shopping list an Echlin ICR-23 ballast resistor. It's 1.2 ohms resistance cold.

About 10 bucks or so

I've had one on a points engine for years with no problems.

Standard RU-23 is another brand with the same resistance

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2017 at 10:00am
Here's a link to last years thread about your ignition issues.

How'd it run the rest of last year?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2017 at 5:51pm
This was my thought in that old thread "Rapid points burning is a condenser issue in my book. "

I wonder if the condenser could be shorting out when it gets hot. If so, the coil current would not be totally interupted like it is supposed to be.      Seems plausible to me.
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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2017 at 6:29pm
Not having a good distributor ground will cause the condenser to fail too from my experience
69 Mustang HM SS
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