Velvet Drive 71C rebuild trouble

Just completed a complete rebuild on my Velvet Drive 71C. Followed the rebuild instructions to the “tee”, at least I thought I did. Today when I went to test my transmission it was stuck in reverse. I cannot figure out why. Any ideas before I have to completely pull the transmission again? Please help!!!

Craig,
Just as Duane says, the trans has got to come out. Once out, check to see if it's still stuck in reverse by turning the input shaft. If the output shaft turns (stuck in reverse) then there's a mechanical lock up. How many reverse plates did you install and how many old ones were removed? If the trans isn't locked up (output shaft doesn't turn when turning input shaft) then the problem is hydraulic and like Duane mentions take a look at the shift spool valve on the selector arm. Did you do any work on the valve spool like an O ring replacement?

To expand on that, If it is errantly mechanically coupled, the output shaft shouldn;t be able to be turned by hand either.

Its lIkely the pivot!...

TRBenj wrote: Did you properly attach the shift cable to the fixed bracket on the bellhousing?

Yes!

If you click on the link that says connectors that's what he's calling a pivot. One at each end of the cable

connectors

or another longshot, maybe the cable broke

KENO wrote: If you click on the link that says connectors that's what he's calling a pivot. One at each end of the cable connectors

KenO,   That pivot may only be on the Morse shifter end. Mine had a different piece on the trany end, but he will get the idea.

[QUOTE=Duane in Indy] Another issue to look at is whether or not the Neutral Safety Switch is functioning properly. Very important that it is working.   Sounds like the engine was started and then the trans was put into reverse. QUOTE]

Neutral Safety switch is NOT working. I bought this boat at the first of the summer and it never has worked. Honestly I don't know what to do to fix it. and..... YES I KNOW it is a HUGE safety issue!

KENO wrote: I'm kinda curious what's on the end of yours Duane A picture would make me less curious

Duane in Indy wrote: KENO wrote: I'm kinda curious what's on the end of yours Duane A picture would make me less curious

Now that's different Duane

Looks like something Pete would've hacked up in the backyard

But it works, probably stronger too

I went home at lunch and checked the cable. Evidently when I checked it this morning it was disengaged. I engaged it and everything moved correctly. The transmission selector lever moves like it should. I started the motor briefly and the transmission is indeed still stuck in reverse. On the way back in I remembered something odd when I took the transmission apart. I was going to write something in this post about it. My transmission did not have a steel clutch plate between the reverse friction plate and the reverse clutch pressure plate like the manual showed. I couldn't remember what the steel clutch plate was called so I looked in the manual before I typed it. This time when I looked at the manual I noticed at the section about re-assembling the reverse clutch it gives a reference to a chart 3 pages over. So I looked at the chart. Only then did I read that the 1017-001 series DOES NOT use a steel reverse clutch plate. Only a friction plate and the pressure plate. Well Crap! There's your problem right there!! So it looks like I get to pull the transmission and take the steel clutch plate out tonight!! Son-ova!

Another thing....When I reconnected the cables to my throttle lever. I noticed that it has a tremendous amount of travel. The transmission selector lever only moves from forward to reverse. But the carburetor linkage seems to move quite a bit. Shouldn't there be some sort of stop on it? I realize that the carburetor will only open so far so why is my throttle moving so much?

It has the neoprene seal.

And Pete asked how many plates you put in

You just want one plate and the pressure plate.

The beefier, bigger 72C (10-18) has an extra plate and also the outer clutch plate.is needed because of the extra plate

You should be all set after fixing that issue 'cause that will sure bind up things with the extra plate in there

If you drop the morse control, you will see different holes to pin the pivot into. Each one provides a different amount of cable travel. Perhaps its in a hole not well matched.

Also, Many marinizations have a extension bracket on the throttle horn, to place the cable and onto.
This createds a longer throw at the carb, a longer arc, and more precise throttle control necessary for tournament skiing.

Maybe your carb is missing that.