73 Mustang prop shaft questions

Alright, I picked up this boat not even 2 months ago, I've had it out 4 times and this last time the shaft came loose from the coupling, luckily I was idling in the marina when it happened. So I put it back together and I was able to finish out the day. But I would like to start looking into fixing it this winter. Also, I've included a picture of where the original speedo pickup is located, did they use a brass line and compression fittings or what? I'd like to fix this boat up and make it into a good ski/cruise boat again. I have linked the pics from Imgur.

Pictures of the shaft.
https://imgur.com/a/CCooC

Random pictures of the boat, motor, in the water, etc....
https://imgur.com/a/OCXDf

I know I have a lot of work to do to the boat, I plan to re-wire it as the wiring mess annoys me. The horn will be replaced with either electric trumpets similar to factory or I may go air horns, that will be decided later. The gauges do not work so they will be swapped out for working gauges. The interior is showing it's wear and needs new frames built and new upholstery. The motor cover is the orange one that news new upholstery, but I was given the bare one from another 70's correct craft that I use until I have time to fix the factory one. Also, I need to figure out the thermostat housing to water pump setup, the original setup was taken off and discarded by the previous owner and is currently rigged which I do not care for at all.   

Phillip,
Here's a direct link to your pictures.
Tell us more about the boat and do try to post some pictures. I see the hull is orange. By chance does it have large bold hull side graphics? If so, it's a sought after promo boat!!

Alright, I updated the original post with a link to more pictures.   Do you know if the copper line that's sold at parts store for mechanical oil pressure gauges will work for my speedo? If not, what size do I need? My boat is a 73 mustang with the 302, I do not believe it is a promo, I have original trailer for it though. I plan to keep most of it original looking, but I do plan to add some modern features like cupholders and a radio. But right now I'm just trying to work out the little issues that keep popping up, like the shaft coming uncoupled, the fuel pump wasn't pumping enough fuel this last run, so either the lines/pickup are leaking air or the pump which is fairly new I was told is bad. Feel free to look through the pictures I've posted and let me know any input. Please keep in mind that I am on a budget so I plan to make a list of repairs I need to do and slowly work on it as I get time and money. A lot of the major items will be addressed once the cooler weather is here as it's still 90+ in Houston and that's not enjoyable to work on anything.

Wouldn't hurt to replace fuel line, but your issue is most likely debris within the tank pickup, and its check valve in the npt-hose barb adapter

Morfoot wrote: Might I suggest the old school ( stick in the window seal) type cup holders to use instead of permanent ones. The slip in great between the combing pads and the hull and can be used anywhere in the boat.

I sure agree with Tim. I don't know what I dislike more than non original cup holders drilled into the deck or snaps for covers!!

It definitely needs some cleaning. The filter I plan to redo the fuel lines, but for now it'll stay since it's nice to see the fuel level in it which is also how I know the fuel pumps wasn't pumping enough, in idle it would start to fill the filter up, but when running higher rpm's it couldn't keep up. My buddy and I bypassed the factory wiring and used jumpers to test the gauges, and most didn't work. The oil pressure and ammeter are the only ones that seem to work at the moment. But I do plan to swap out the ammeter with a voltage gauge that matches whatever I do run. A nice member sent me his old gauges that are off a newer boat than mine, so I'll have to test them.

I agree the stripe isn't pretty and will probably just be removed in the future, but for now I'll leave it. I'm hoping the speedo works once hooked up, the previous owner installed a cheap plastic pickup on the back of the boat that was broken when I bought it, so I plan to remove that and get the factory one hooked back up. I know the carpet isn't original and the person who installed it did a horrible job, so that too will be removed and something better installed probably this winter. But I would first like to patch the floor and any other items repaired before I mess with cosmetics.

I have considered the window cup holders and have some for my 82 dodge pickup, but they don't work for crap and I'd like something a bit sturdier. I have considered mounting some to a bracket that attaches behind the dash and would hold them in front close to the padding so it'd be easy to remove, but I'm not sold on that either. I only plan to add 2 cup holders, but I haven't finalized where or how. I already use my bluetooth speaker on my boat, but it's not quite adequate for cruising the lake, so a small setup would be more ideal for me. I'll have to check on my boat before I install anything, but I want function and looks, so if it will be in the way of using my boat as a ski boat, I won't do it. But I'm also not going to toss out the idea just because it's not factory. I love this old boat and plan to keep it for a long time, but to do so, it needs work and a few upgrades.

As for the flaps, I probably will take them off, I know they are useless and not really sure what their purpose is other than to maybe keep critters out of the exhaust when it's out of water.

I will keep progress updated, but right now my main goal is to get it functioning at 100% and then work on cosmetics.

Phillip,
Do check the anti siphon valve that Tom mentioned before condemning the fuel pump. A pressure gauge tee'd into the line after the pump is best for checking the pump.Yes, the plastic fuel filter is a bomb like Tim mentions and must go. Keep in mind there are USCG regs on fuel lines especially the high pressure side of the pump.

What's the problem with an ammeter? You mention going to a volt meter. You jumpered gauges to check them but what about the senders? What did you jump?

Chau

I thought I'd point out a few things that only weirdos like me notice

First is that custom thermostat housing setup that's straight from the plumbing aisle at home depot. Don't know if there's a thermostat in there anywhere.

Second, You have a nice new shiny example of an automotive fuel pump, not a marine one. There's no tube to direct leakage from a ruptured diaphragm up to the carburetor and any leakage would spray out the little weep hole into the bilge area.

Third You have an Edelbrock carburetor on it, it may or may not be marine. If you find the Model number, it will tell you what it is. For example a 1409 is a marine carburetor and a 1406 is an automotive.

Fourth I notice little pieces of masking tape on the distributor cap and what can be seen tells me you have an early 302 firing order but.......it's left hand (normal) rotation.
Looks to be 1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8 from the pieces of tape that can be read.

If it is a LH rotating engine the only problem is you have a RH rotating prop and the only way to do that with a Borg Warner 71c is by having the single reverse clutch plate driving the boat forward. It makes for a very weak forward as far as strength and a very strong reverse since the multiple forward clutch plates are turning the prop backwards.

This might all be hard to understand as far as the engine,transmission, prop relationship so if you could post your firing order it might clear up a lot of things.

The firing order goes Counter Clockwise around the cap regardless of which way your engine rotates.

You could also post which way the pulleys rotate when looking from the front.

And last but not least, that giant horn on the deck is the catzazz

Not trying to pick on anything (except maybe the horn a little bit) but it's what we weirdos notice and you're looking for input

Also Pete already mentioned the fuel filter and fuel line

KENO wrote: Chau I thought I'd point out a few things that only weirdos like me notice First is that custom thermostat housing setup that's straight from the plumbing aisle at home depot. Don't know if there's a thermostat in there anywhere.

I agree, the setup is horrendous and needs to be either swapped back to factory or at least use a setup from a PCM 302. Sadly I don't have the stock setup to swap it back, I wish I did.

Second, You have a nice new shiny example of an automotive fuel pump, not a marine one. There's no tube to direct leakage from a ruptured diaphragm up to the carburetor and any leakage would spray out the little weep hole into the bilge area.

The fuel pump is a carter M60389, which is a marine fuel pump and has the tube hooked up to the carb. The picture shown doesn't show it well, but I have other pictures I didn't post that do show more. Had I posted every pic I've taken, there'd be well over 100 pics and people would get tired of looking.

Third You have an Edelbrock carburetor on it, it may or may not be marine. If you find the Model number, it will tell you what it is. For example a 1409 is a marine carburetor and a 1406 is an automotive.

The carb is a 1409, there's a few easy ways to tell it apart from it's automotive cousin the 1406. I have several 1406's laying around and in use on my old Dodges. One quick way to tell the difference is the lack of vacuum ports on the front for the dizzy and one on the back for PCV or other vacuum items isn't drilled/tapped.

Fourth I notice little pieces of masking tape on the distributor cap and what can be seen tells me you have an early 302 firing order but.......it's left hand (normal) rotation. Looks to be 1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8 from the pieces of tape that can be read. If it is a LH rotating engine the only problem is you have a RH rotating prop and the only way to do that with a Borg Warner 71c is by having the single reverse clutch plate driving the boat forward. It makes for a very weak forward as far as strength and a very strong reverse since the multiple forward clutch plates are turning the prop backwards.

This is a reverse rotation motor and still runs that way and runs great when it's getting fuel. The starter is also reverse rotation as it should be. It has the velvet drive 1:1 71C and goes forward when in forward and reverse when reversed. I did not place the tape on the dizzy and bought the boat that way.

This might all be hard to understand as far as the engine,transmission, prop relationship so if you could post your firing order it might clear up a lot of things. The firing order goes Counter Clockwise around the cap regardless of which way your engine rotates. You could also post which way the pulleys rotate when looking from the front. And last but not least, that giant horn on the deck is the catzazz Not trying to pick on anything (except maybe the horn a little bit) but it's what we weirdos notice and you're looking for input Also Pete already mentioned the fuel filter and fuel line

I agree, the tape makes no sense and based on the numbers I can read, neither firing order align up to it. I will have to check the wires and see what's going on there. But the crank rotates CCW when looking at it from the drivers seat. And I just realized ford numbers their cylinders completely different than Dodge or Chevy, that's going to annoy the crap out of me.

As for the horn, I absolutely hate it and will remove it once I have $100-200 to spend on either electric trumpets or I will be going train horns. Either way they will be chrome and will look 100 times better. But for now, it's legal at least.

Hi Chau

Good answers

Glad it rotates the right way and the tape is wrong on the cap

The whole transmission thing is a non issue

I agree on the carburetor too, I didn't see the vacuum ports when I blew up the pictures of the carburetor. Sounds like you know your Edelbrock/Carter/Weber carburetors

It must be just hard to see the overflow on the pump, but the 60389 is a marine fuel pump.

I'd try running it with a temporary tank hooked up to the fuel pump to narrow down your fuel issue. If it runs good on the temporary tank then your fuel pump is probably not your issue.

There were 2 different RH firing orders on the 302's

Early was 1 8 7 3 6 2 4 5

Later was 1 8 4 5 6 2 7 3

You'll have one of those.

73 was around the time of the cam and firing order change. And remember the distributor always turns counter clockwise

Keno, thanks for the tips. I have the overflow from the pump hooked up to the carb, I know it's hard to see in the pictures, but it's there. I'm not new to the motor world, but I am new to Ford. I grew up with my parents having a boat and my best friend has a late 60's (we think) ski boat with a small block chevy in it. While I was thinking about my boat, I just remember that there is a fuel filter or water separator between the tank and the pump, so I will have to inspect that as well. A temporary tank is something I have done many times when testing my truck motors, and I will run multiple tests. I do have fuel pressure gauges, timing lights, etc....   But the main thing is I have to pull the boat out and hook up a water supply, I use a 5 gallon bucket as shown in one of my pics so that the raw water pump does its job still and the city pressure doesn't damage anything. But this all takes time, which lately I don't have much of it free.

Good to know about the firing order, didn't realize there was two, so I will be extra careful before I remove anything so I don't accidentally get it wrong. But the numbers I wrote down from the cap still don't line up with either one you posted, so I don't know what's going on there still. I do appreciate the help.


And it looks like a prop shaft and coupler are in my future, but I would like to upgrade to something with a better design. I still don't see why it's not splined with a nut like the prop side is.

chau8238 wrote: And it looks like a prop shaft and coupler are in my future, but I would like to upgrade to something with a better design. I still don't see why it's not splined with a nut like the prop side is.

Your prop side isn't splined, it's a tapered shaft with a keyway and matches the propeller taper unless you have a custom shaft and propeller of some kind. Your pictures show a normal inboard prop.

Some much newer inboards have a splined shaft like an outboard but I 'd be pretty sure
( like 99 and 44/100ths percent) you have a tapered shaft and need a puller to get the prop off

chau8238 wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Phillip, What's the problem with an ammeter? You mention going to a volt meter. You jumpered gauges to check them but what about the senders? What did you jump? As for the ammeter, I just don't like them and I plan to redo the wiring on the boat and would rather not have the alternator ran to the front of the boat and then to the battery. I prefer voltmeters as I can see how my battery's level is even when my boat isn't running. I've had enough old Dodges to be tired of ammeters and would rather have gauges I like. As for jumping the gauges, I ran a wire directly from the sending unit to the gauge and checked to see if the gauge was working correctly. .

Before you condemn an ammeter, I suggest thinking about the differences. Yes, with an ammeter you need to run a heavy gauge wire up and back from the dash but is that real difficult? The ammeter is going to tell you if there's a charge or discharge with the engine running or nor. A voltmeter will not since you can have voltage and still be discharging the battery. I like to know if I'm running only on the battery before I get to the other side of the Lake! You mention the volt meter telling you the battery level. If you plan on using it for that, you have better get a very accurate digital since a few hundredths of a volt can make a big difference as shown in this chart:



Your normal analog dash meter will not be close enough. Also, keep in mind the chart shows OPV (open circuit volt) and CCV will also add to the inaccuracy of using a volt meter. for battery condition.

Getting back to you checking your gauges, you ran sender wires directly but did you Ohm out the senders? Did you check for the nominal 12 volts at the gauge?

chau8238 wrote: I'm still having issues getting fuel to the carb, it pumps but doesn't have the volume it should. So my boat is still having running issues. I'll test it more this weekend, .

Get that pressure gauge T'd into the fuel line that was recommended. I feel it will give you a better idea of what's up with the pump.

The pumps look very similar, here are some more pics. The pics were taken before the fuel lines were replaced.   And I sucked on the hose to the fuel pump and fuel comes very easily, plenty in my mouth to prove it.   I'm about to buy an electric fuel pump and just bypass the mechanical all together. I will hook up a gas can when I test it some this weekend in the driveway, but I'm still thinking it's pump related.   

https://imgur.com/a/02t3h