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81 starter switch

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Highflyin504 View Drop Down
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    Posted: October-14-2017 at 10:05pm
Hello all!
You guys have been absolutely helpful with my last post on here regarding my 81 ski nautique not turning over. Turns out it was a bad starter and bad terminals at the battery. I recently had to replace a part of the floor which took some time getting back together. Pretty much all summer. Now I have a new problem, and I am hoping you guys can help me out yet again. I recently tried taking the boat out and the starter switch on the dash seemed to not work. I went out and bought a new starter switch and replaced it. Matching all the terminals together the way I took it off. It started to crank but then stopped, I though I might have not tightened then down and one may have worked loose. I turned the switch to off and took the key out. When I went to place the screwdriver on the screws in the back to make sure they were tight the boat started to turn over and crank. I did not slip in the screwdriver at all potentially jumping the ign and starter terminals. I tried doing it with all three terminal ends individually and it did the same same thing with exception of the battery end of the starter switch. I am thinking I have a wiring issue and I am open to all suggestions if anyone is willing to help.
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2017 at 8:25am
Jon,
I suggest reading your previous thread again, getting a VOM (volt Ohm meter), going through your wiring and following the wiring diagram that Ken posted. Did you ever determine where the voltage drop was? Was it bad battery cables and or terminals? You never responded! Make sure your start relay contacts aren't welded together causing the starter to crank without the start relay being energized. Bad cables and or terminals can cause this due to a low voltage high amp issue.


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Highflyin504 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2017 at 10:21am
I never did find a voltage drop from the last time. I know I have not posted from my last post on here, which I apologize for. I ended up getting super busy working on the floor and also traveling for my job. I ended up changing the battery terminal ends on the wires, the battery itself and also the starter and it seemed to work as advertised. This is a new issue that arised yesterday. I will have to go and find that diagram and follow some wires. I am still baffled as to why when I place a screwdriver on the screwhead, on the ignition prong, the motor starts to turn over and crank. I have a three prong starter switch and I am wondering if the wires are crossed somewhere causeing it to be hot. But I don't know why my screwdriver is the thing that's causeing to complete the circuit. Again I am only touching one screwhead.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2017 at 10:24am
Get the VOM out and find the problem before you start throwing parts at it again. BTW, what testing did you do that made you feel the starter/ignition switch was the problem?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2017 at 10:36am
Maybe the switch's internal contacts are loose & when you pushed on the wire lug it moved & made contact.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Highflyin504 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2017 at 11:40am
The testing I did was check, when the key was on, making sure I had power to the starter relay.. then when I started to turn the key to crank the motor I checked it again and I had nothing.. when I got the new switch I had power to both and it started to turn over.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2017 at 11:53am
Jon,
Check your wiring since it sounds like you may have the switch wired wrong or there's a cross connection between the switch and relay. When it's in the on/run position you should not have power to the start relay coil. Disconnect the battery and use the Ohm setting.

Also, I haven't asked or mentioned the battery. Hopefully you are using a starting type and not a deep cycle.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Highflyin504 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2017 at 12:05pm
I am thinking I may have it crossed somewhere. Like I mentioned before I took off the old terminals off the old switch and placed them on the new switch one by one. I do have a starting battery and NOT a deep cycle battery.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2017 at 4:07pm
Originally posted by Highflyin504 Highflyin504 wrote:

I am thinking I may have it crossed somewhere. Like I mentioned before I took off the old terminals off the old switch and placed them on the new switch one by one. .

Jon,
Did the new switch have the terminals marked "B", "I" and "S"? Has the distributor been converted with an EI pointless requiring bypassing the ballast resistor?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Highflyin504 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2017 at 5:42pm
The new switch did have it marked with B,S and I.. I am not sure about the distributor being converted. Is there anyway you can elaborate on that some more so I know exactly what I am looking for or looking at to give you guys better information?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2017 at 5:58pm
Jon,
I was more or less thinking out loud regarding the EI conversion trying to give you an idea of were to look for wiring that's causing the start relay to energize. I have seen were wiring between the relay and ballast resistor has been mixed up when EI conversions are done. Since it sounds like you haven't done the conversion, so don't worry about it too much but, do follow that wiring diagram and check.

Have you done any other wiring changes/additions? Have you Ohm'd out the new switch to make sure it's not defective?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Highflyin504 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2017 at 6:29pm
To be honest with you I am not the original owner of the boat and I just acquired this boat in June. I bought it from a guy I work with who has multiple correct crafts and ski nautiques. I personally have not done this conversion but I am unsure if he has or the previous owner before him has either. I am unfamiliar with the conversion but I can look it up. To answer your question, no I have not done any wiring changes or additions to the boat. And I have not tested the new switch yet. The weird thing to me was that it was working as it should when I first replaced the switch. When I attached all the wires when I replaced the switch it didn't happen. Then I took it to the water and turned the key and it started cranking.. it wasn't until I turned it off and removed the key for a minute or two then tried cranking the motor over again where it didn't work and the new issue arose
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Highflyin504 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2017 at 6:36pm
Out of the three prongs in the back of the switch should any of them be hot? And what should the voltage be on the back of the starter relay? I am going to assume that it should be 24v and when the key is on it should be zero until you turn the key over to start cranking the motor.. am I correct on that?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2017 at 8:04pm
Originally posted by Highflyin504 Highflyin504 wrote:

Out of the three prongs in the back of the switch should any of them be hot? And what should the voltage be on the back of the starter relay? I am going to assume that it should be 24v and when the key is on it should be zero until you turn the key over to start cranking the motor.. am I correct on that?

Jon,
The "B" terminal on the switch will have 12 volts nominal at all times. Then when the switch is turned to start, the "S" and "I" will have the volts. In the run/on position, the "I" terminal will have it but the "S" should not.

24 volt?? Your battery is only 12!! What are you using to measure the voltage?

The "back of the start relay"?? Please expound on this.

The "S" terminal (small terminal) on the start relay should have voltage when the key switch is in the start position only.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MourningWood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2017 at 4:40pm
Originally posted by Highflyin504 Highflyin504 wrote:

And I have not tested the new switch yet. The weird thing to me was that it was working as it should when I first replaced the switch.



I've said it before, I'll say it again:
If it was working, and then you've changed something, and now it doesn't work, chances are very high that the problem has to do with something that was changed.
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