Boats For Sale:
Exhaust Hose Fried |
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cbrad435 
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Joined: July-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 43 |
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 Topic: Exhaust Hose FriedPosted: July-17-2006 at 1:58pm |
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Hello,
I am a new boat owner and by now think after reading all your great advise on here I could rebuild a motor and I am a girl. After frying the impeller and finding a mult*tude of problems to fix from one persons stupid mistake, my last one is that the boat got so hot that it fried the exhaust hoses. I am going to replace those today. Changed the sparks plugs and oil, Is that all I should be looking for after a boat gets hot??? |
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79nautique
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Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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Posted: July-17-2006 at 2:05pm |
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make sure that there isn't any chucks of rubber from the impellor stuck in the manifolds or lines that would cause a water restriction otherwiser your going to melt your new hoses like the old ones are already.
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cbrad435
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Posted: July-17-2006 at 2:17pm |
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The impeller did not shredd at all it was just a bit grooved....????? The reason the exhaust melted was because the new impeller was installed with housing reversed, second time out was about 5 minutes on motor with no water going in..When we pulled to see if we ruined a second impeller it looked fine but I replaced it anyway...???
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Tim D
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Joined: August-23-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2635 |
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Posted: July-17-2006 at 5:14pm |
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I hope you didn't warp the heads while melting hoses.
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Tim D
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64 Skier
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Joined: February-08-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 415 |
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Posted: July-18-2006 at 3:07am |
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You may want to hook up a garden hose after you finish the work on the pump housing and make sure you have proper flow path.
My daughter works on my boat all the time. Keep up the work, posting and wakeboarding! |
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David F
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Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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Posted: July-18-2006 at 9:46am |
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See, you are already well ahead of the curve by being smart enough to check the exhaust hoses due to the overheat. Most people would not think to check the hoses. Do the things you and the others have mentioned, and I bet everything else will be fine.
Sort of says something about running the impellars dry...they can take more of a beating than people realize. Over the years, I have found that age, not abuse, causes most impellar failures. |
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jimbo
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Joined: September-07-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 473 |
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Posted: July-18-2006 at 11:44am |
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By the by...how often to y'all replace your impeller? Once a year?
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79nautique
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Posted: July-18-2006 at 11:54am |
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every other
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GottaSki
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Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3333 |
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Posted: July-18-2006 at 11:56am |
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Yes, for myself a fresh one every year.
People often don't associate that when the exhaust hoses melt, you can sink. |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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cbrad435
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Posted: July-18-2006 at 3:40pm |
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Wow sinking would not have been good. Tonight I will be installing exhaust by myself. I could only find wire reinforced hose as opposed to what came out of it. The only reason I checked the exhaust is because when I checked the the to see if water was coming out of exhaust while running and only one side was actualling rumbling and the other just had the water coming out but no rumble..(my favorite sound by the way) I got back in boat gave it a little gas and happened to see the hose breathing and thought that cannot be right...Pulled it and what a mess.!! How would I now if I warpped the heads??? Seems to be running quite well off the hose???
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79nautique
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Posted: July-18-2006 at 3:45pm |
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wire re-inforced is the correct hose to be using for the exhaust. don't worry about the head being warped you'll know if it is when you get it on the water. if you let it cool down before you fired it back uo you'll be ok. If it was hot then you dumped cold water into the engine then that's different.
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cbrad435
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Posted: July-18-2006 at 4:23pm |
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Thank you I was a bit worried... Nope Let cool before trying to start and I noticed that even though the housing was on backwards I could still feel water going into the hoses, obviously just not enough...And that was all before I finally figured out it was not a reverse rotation motor like someone told us.. I woke up one morning after two weeks of wondering what it could be and read up on this awesome site and found the RWP test....What a blessing.. Hoping to wakeboard on our new nautique this weekend for the first time....
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79nautique
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Posted: July-18-2006 at 4:36pm |
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if you have a right hand prop then you have a reverse rotation engine. Provided it has a 1:1 borg warner tranny as well, don't use the RWP as a reference to determind engine rotation.
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cbrad435
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Posted: July-18-2006 at 4:41pm |
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This is going to sound so dumb...So the deciding factor of a reverse rotation is the prop and not if it is going the same as say my chevy subarben. What a dork am I??? I get it I think. The prop spins reverse the motor spin???
A whole new area for me to learn..If I new how to post a pic I would. It is a 351 commander 1985, 2001 nautique... |
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cbrad435
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Posted: July-18-2006 at 4:49pm |
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Also what will happen on the water with a warpped head????
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David F
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Posted: July-19-2006 at 11:03am |
True for corrugated bendable exhaust hose, not true for smooth exhaust hose not intended to be bent. I got away from the corrugated exhaust hose on my '77 Martinique by using these mufflers. the straight and smooth exhaust hose I used did not have wire reinforcing. The angled mufflers created a straight shot from the riser outlet to the muffler once the muffler was moved forward a bit. This required the hose between the muffler and thru hull to be lengthened as well. |
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79nautique
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Posted: July-19-2006 at 11:23am |
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chrisite it makes a difference if you have a 1:1 BW tranny or a 1.23:1 PCM tranny. With the 1:1 and RH prop its reverse rotation. with the 1.23:1 and RH prop it's standard rotation engine because the tranny does dirrection change.
If you compared that rotation of belts on the boat and the truck then I would say you have that if the where the same then you have the 1.23:1 tranny and a standard roation engine. I'm not sure what the year is that they change transmissions and went to the 1.23:1 pcm model. |
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TRBenj
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Posted: July-19-2006 at 11:39am |
If original, the motor should be a reverse rotation 351w with a 1:1 tranny. The 1.23:1 transmission that reversed the direction of the motor (allowing a standard rotation motor to be used and still turn a RH prop) was introduced in 1989. There are 1:1 boats with RR motors as new as 1994 though- the 1.23 was an option (though most boats had it). In case anyone's curious, theres a 1:1 '93 on ebay right now. '93 1:1 |
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David F
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Posted: July-19-2006 at 12:29pm |
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The thing I really like about the PCM 1.23:1 trannies is that the output flange is angled downward allowing the engine to site near level in the the boat.
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cbrad435
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Posted: July-19-2006 at 3:48pm |
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This is all confusing. My prop has a 1:1 engraved on it... Back to my exhaust. I installed it last night and WOW what a hard job for me and not the right tools to cut it. When I took old hose off I noticed that one muffler had been cracked and epoxy repaired at the male end. Now I cannot fit the new hose (wire reenforced) as well on there as the soft was. Since I cut hose the size of soft it made for a tight fit. The pressure from riser to muffler seems so tight it would have no way of poping off.. True??? And how do you reach the clamps at the very back of boat??
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David F
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Posted: July-20-2006 at 11:19am |
You have to remove the engine box, rear seat, back panel and rear flooring to access the clamps. |
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cbrad435
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Posted: July-20-2006 at 9:09pm |
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I have a fuel tank bank there???I can remove that??
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79nautique
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Posted: July-21-2006 at 7:48am |
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you don't have to remove the fuel tank, it's a tight space but you should be able to use a 1/4 drive with a 5/16 socket to loosen the clamps and remove the hose. Just use your hands and feel around and you should be able to find the screw on the clamp and then when you install the new one you can postion it so that it is easier to get too.
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cbrad435
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Posted: July-21-2006 at 2:07pm |
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Thanks that is what I did, but with a shorty screw driver and by touch....What a fit, I did not have the option of removing floorboard back there...
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79nautique wrote: