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Factory 4 blade prop vs. new Acme prop

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Otto Throttle View Drop Down
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    Posted: November-29-2017 at 4:31am
Newbie Question....1999 Nautique closed bow with 290 hp option and factory 4 blade prop. I just bought the boat and noticed a little prop damage one 1 blade. No vibration at any rpm or speed. Quandary...should I have it repaired or should I keep it as a spare and get an Acme 4 blade? Also if buying an Acme should I go with same pitch. I was getting 45 mph at 4400 rpm according to perfect pass. Can someone give me the pros and cons on this please?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2017 at 8:28am
I have read where some guys claim a 3 blade will soften the wake a bit. I would call acme and see what they recommend. If a 4 blade the 422 would likely be a good choice.
Timmy will be along soon to give his recommendation as well as scold you for not posting GPS accurate MPH';s, lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2017 at 8:42am
How about a photo of the damage? If it isn't causing a problem, maybe leave it be.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fl Inboards Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2017 at 10:27am
Not Sure when we went to the ACME products, seems to me it may have been around 99.
ACME 422 will work nicely on a 290 HP SN package. The three blade C&C ACME is a bit noisy and left hand growl will be prevalent when tight turning the boat.
OJ also makes a great Prop that is a C&C product.
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2017 at 11:20am
I think it was 02-03 when the swap happened. It is when they used the neat N machined into the face of each propeller blade.

Buy a 422 and don't put money into repairing the stock propeller. 1442 may over turn the engine a bit but may also be a good choice for a 3 blade/more hole shot on the carb HO motor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2017 at 11:32am
01 IIRC. I’d stick with the 422 for all around use on the HO.

The OJ equivalent acts larger (performance in line with the 668).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Otto Throttle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2017 at 11:33am
I am new to all this so thank you all. What Benifits are a 3 blade vs a 4 blade. I am having a hard time grasping the proper application for each? I am trying to grasp all this!

Thank you!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2017 at 11:42am
Just go 422. It's a proven performer on that hull. About the best you can get outside of special needs application.

Top speed won't change much but everything else will be light years ahead. Better hole shot, better mid range punch, easier speed holding, better tracking/handling, quicker stopping when you chop throttle and leave it in gear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2017 at 12:51pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Just go 422. It's a proven performer on that hull. About the best you can get outside of special needs application.

Top speed won't change much but everything else will be light years ahead. Better hole shot, better mid range punch, easier speed holding, better tracking/handling, quicker stopping when you chop throttle and leave it in gear.

Interesting, the quicker stopping is not something I ever evaluated or paid attention to. Learn something new here every day!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2017 at 2:25pm
The Acme 4 blade also eliminates the prop howl you hear at different speeds.
It is a good change, I removed the 4 blade non CNC 4 blade OJ and replaced with the Acme. Very Happy with the move.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Otto Throttle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2017 at 11:37am
Thanks for the advice! I was able to find a new 422 for $360.00 delivered so I went for it. I just do some skiing, tubing, and some bare footing so I think this was a good choice. You brought up some interesting points about 18 years of change in design and mfg...how different is the factory prop from the Acme? Is it lighter, different design blades...? Will it behave the same as the factory prop in reverse? What and how does cupping do to the performance of a prop? I know with aircraft 4 blades usually turn slower and have a smaller diameter....but they are not fixed pitch either!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2017 at 1:36pm
Originally posted by Fl Inboards Fl Inboards wrote:

Not Sure when we went to the ACME products, seems to me it may have been around 99.
ACME 422 will work nicely on a 290 HP SN package. The three blade C&C ACME is a bit noisy and left hand growl will be prevalent when tight turning the boat.
OJ also makes a great Prop that is a C&C product.


I think it was 02. My 2001 Super Air had a Federal/Oj, whatever it was, and I put the acme on it in 02 as the 02 Super Airs had acme and it was smoother, and a bit faster. ICBW.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2017 at 2:04pm
‘01 brochure shows OJ and ‘02 brochure shows Acme, so you’re at least partially correct Brian. I bought dad a 422 in the summer of ‘01 after whacking the 4-blade OJ he had put on our ‘92... From memory, I did so based on what was available on the new boats at the time and it would have been prior to seeing the ‘02 literature that usually showed up in late Aug. So my suspicion is that CC switched mid ‘01 but I’m not sure there’s a way to prove it. Other than maybe polling original 2001 owners anyways, ha.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Otto Throttle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-01-2017 at 6:25pm
PROBLEM: just pulled mine off and it is. OJ 13 inch Diameter by 16 pitch. The 422 is a 12.5 x 15.5.

What are the options to get into a Acme wheel????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-01-2017 at 6:48pm
Originally posted by Otto Throttle Otto Throttle wrote:

PROBLEM: just pulled mine off and it is. OJ 13 inch Diameter by 16 pitch. The 422 is a 12.5 x 15.5.

What are the options to get into a Acme wheel????


The simple answer is an Acme 422 like a few knowledgeable people with experience with the same boat have already mentioned.

It sounds like you already bought it. Don't sweat it.

The newer style CNC props and the older props can't be directly compared by looking at pitch and diameter of each due to a variety of things like surface area of the blades, rake of the blades, prop efficiency etc..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Otto Throttle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-01-2017 at 8:06pm
Ok! I was going to send the check tomorrow...so I should still do it?!

Also, Who can true up the OJ prop for me? I want to send it to be reconditioned.

Thank you for your response!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-01-2017 at 8:07pm
+1 on what KENO says. The propeller size numbers don't always correlate across manufacturers and propeller types. A 14X16 OJ 3-blade will NOT be the same as a 14X16 ACME 4-blade.

The ACME 422 is a good propeller for a 290HP Ski Nautique. If I lived at a lower elevation, I would run a 422. Since I'm at 4,400 feet, I run an ACME 654 (12.5X15 with .105 cup). The 422 is a 12.5X15.5 with a .105 cup. Great propellers.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-01-2017 at 8:49pm
I bet if you google "propeller repair Cleveland Ohio" you'll come up with some local choices with no shipping involved
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Otto Throttle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2017 at 2:19am
I thought that most places won't work on ski props?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2017 at 6:25am
Where do you find a new 422 for $360???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2017 at 8:05am
Originally posted by Otto Throttle Otto Throttle wrote:

I thought that most places won't work on ski props?


Let your fingers do the walking and give them a call.

You might be surprised
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2017 at 8:09am
Originally posted by Otto Throttle Otto Throttle wrote:

I thought that most places won't work on ski props?

You've heard some bad information.


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Otto Throttle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2017 at 1:23pm
I will tell you when my check is cashed!!!! Probably Wed. I figured it was a great deal at 30% off list....By the way when I took my factory prop off it just came off nicely...no sweat🙃
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2017 at 1:33pm
Originally posted by Otto Throttle Otto Throttle wrote:

when I took my factory prop off it just came off nicely...no sweat🙃

Christopher,
If it came off without using a prop puller, understand it wasn't installed properly.


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Otto Throttle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2017 at 1:51pm
Could you please elaborate???   I have been an outboard guy for 35 years😲
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Otto Throttle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2017 at 1:54pm
What would be the proper installation for my new prop?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2017 at 2:11pm
Originally posted by Otto Throttle Otto Throttle wrote:

What would be the proper installation for my new prop?

A link from the FAQ's on proper prop installation. Sorry about the pictures but it's just another thread Photobucket screwed up!!
Basically it's lapping the prop taper bore to match the shaft taper.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Otto Throttle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2017 at 2:20pm
This sounds difficult....unfortunately the pics did not come out. Could you please try re sending them? I want to do this correctly and your help is appreciated!

How snugg do you tighten the castle nut? Is there a torque spec?


THANK YOU!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Otto Throttle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2017 at 2:20pm
How long does this process take? 45 minutes?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2017 at 2:40pm
If you search lapping a prop or something like that you'll get the info you need with pictures I'm sure. The prop taper should be a near-perfect match for the shaft taper so that there aren't any stress points and it's basically held in place by being perfectly mated. The nut only needs to be hand tight and then the cotter pin keeps it from backing out.
It's actually very easy, just need a couple of things from the auto parts store. And what Pete was saying is that no inboard prop should come off without at least a bit of a tug from a puller.
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