engine cuts-out GT40 EFI |
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LakeBoy
Gold Member Joined: July-19-2006 Location: Roseville, CA Status: Offline Points: 709 |
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Posted: July-19-2006 at 4:37pm |
I have a 95 Nautique with GT 40 EFI engine. The boat has 450 hours on it. This is my second season with this boat, and this problem was present last season, but worsened this year.
Boat starts great, runs strong, does not miss or sputter. Intermittently the power will drop, or cut-out, perhaps for a second or half a second. Enough to throw you off when reaching for a bouy. This may happen 1 to 3 times a pass. I changed the in-line fuel filter, which was so clogged you could not blow through it. I took the boat out and it ran beautifully for 3 or 4 runs, then started dropping out with a vengance. Almost worse than before. I pulled the fuel tank an checked the screen on the end of the line which was clean. Tank looked clean. There was a bit of debris in the angle stop that comes out of the tank, so I removed that. Last night I took it out to the lake, but did not ski. I ran it for 30 to 40 minutes and it ran like a charm. My friend & I took a 20 minute swim, when we started it up it dropped out for a second. Disaapointed, I came in and it drpped out only 1 more time. The only other clue I can offer is that when it does drop out, and you I am behind the boat, I can smell a rich-fuel-exhauts smell. Is it fuel? Ignition? A ghost in the machine! Thanks for your help. |
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M3Fan
Grand Poobah Joined: October-22-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3185 |
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Well, could be anything. If you're smelling a rich fuel smell when it dies, perhaps it is electrical.
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LakeBoy
Gold Member Joined: July-19-2006 Location: Roseville, CA Status: Offline Points: 709 |
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The motor never actually dies, it drops a few hundred RPM for a moment, and goes back to where it was.
Any ideas where to start? I've read other entries in this forum, and there is a lot of talk of fuel pumps, relays, kill switches. |
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todicus
Senior Member Joined: July-10-2006 Location: Napa, Ca Status: Offline Points: 493 |
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Welcome to my personal hell. I have the same year boat with the same motor and the same problem.
Replaced the relays, ignition module, rotor, cap and spark plugs, checked the ignition switch, blah blah blah............ ran great for 5 minutes........now my motor completely died. No spark , no power to the fuel pump, and no power to the relay. makes a wierd clicking noise, then energizes the fuel pump maybe 1 out of 10 times when I turn the key. Motor cranks but will not fire. Boat only has 117 hours on it and I'm frickin' stumped and tired of trouble shooting that damn EFI and computer system/wiring hell. I have an appointment with the Nautique dealer next Wednesday to fix it. It is a Ghost !! |
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LakeBoy
Gold Member Joined: July-19-2006 Location: Roseville, CA Status: Offline Points: 709 |
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I have read some of your posts, I believe. Sorry you are having such a hard time. I also have an appointment with the dealer next week. My concern is that it is so intermittent enough that they will take 500 bills and say the motor is fine. The condition can't be replicated in the shop. Even on the water. Seems I need a skier reaching for a bouy at 28 off to create the problem.
Keep me posted. |
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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You ought to print this thread and take it to the Nautique dealer with you. This is pretty interesting. When I bought my boat I bought it through a dealer from the original owner who bought it at the same dealer (Buxton Marine in Dallas). My 95 sport has the gt 40 heads, but is carbuerated. Phil at Buxton told me it was because they had so much trouble with the EFI in 94 (first year with efi) that they wouldn't order efi on any of their boats in 95.
I just kind of shrugged and figured they got any kinks worked out...efi is so maintenance free now. I don't know if your problems are efi or not, but I hope you get them worked out soon. Sorry I'm not more help, but am interested in how you get it going and especially in what the Nautique dealer says. |
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LakeBoy
Gold Member Joined: July-19-2006 Location: Roseville, CA Status: Offline Points: 709 |
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To The Dude:
Thanks for the advice. I will take some of these comments to the dealer. Frankly the dealer has been of no help. I mentioned what was happening to my boat, and their head mechanic said, "If I were God, I could tell you what is wrong, but I am not God." Bit of a smart a@#, eh? You would think that their career being dedicated to a certain boat, they could tell you something, anything. There are patterns in any discipline that repeat. What are the patterns with this model? I was hoping on this forum I would have 10 good hits from others out there who can get me pointed in the right direction. I can turn a wrench, but need a start. Any SN owners out there who can Help?! |
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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write to 79nautique and do what he says. He might make you mad, but he's almost always right.
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LakeBoy
Gold Member Joined: July-19-2006 Location: Roseville, CA Status: Offline Points: 709 |
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Just back from the lake...
Boat plain old would not start. I noticed when I turned the key, the fuel pumps weren't pressurizing with that few seconds of ticking. (I learned that one from another thread). I pulled the relays, put them back, in...Voila! 22 passes on the course without a hiccup. I will replace those relays tomorrow. Next problem: Any remedies for a sore back from too much throw-down! Later. |
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1998Nautique
Senior Member Joined: January-26-2006 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 190 |
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I have the excat same problem in my 1998 Nautique. I have changed the plugs the fuel/water seperator. And new hose, added injector cleaner. Mine only does it when it is under load and it only does it once or twice a day? What else can I try?
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LakeBoy
Gold Member Joined: July-19-2006 Location: Roseville, CA Status: Offline Points: 709 |
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1998Nautique:
Believe me I am no expert. What I have learned about these boats, I have learned from these forums. This is what I did, and would have continued to do: Isolate the fuel side solving from the ignition side: on the fuel side: By pass your fuel tank by hooking up an auxillary fuel tank directly to your low pressure pump. That will eliminate any questions if it is a tank fuel line issue. put a fuel pressure gauge on your fuel injector rail. If your pressure drops, you know it is fuel related. Should be steady 40 PSI. May need to replace fuel pumps. Start with the low pressure, next the high pressure. You fuel pressure regulator (that valve looking thing on your fuel injection loop) may be not working. May replace that. Check for leaks and soft spots on hoses on this loop, too. I don't think it is an individual injector problem, if the whole motor is dropping out. Also there are lots of little screens in your fuel line. Check the one right as the fuel enters the low pressure pump. Ignition: Replace the fuel pump and ignition relays. Mine are on a plate, mounted at the back of the motor. 12.00 each! Check all of your electrical connections. I mean all of them. Especially ones closest to motor heat. Undo them and look for corrosion. Someone suggested reconnecting them with dialectric grease. Start the motor, wiggle all the conections and wires, to see if something is loose. Check all of your ground connections. Not sure how to do this, put I read that idea. Check for a corroded connection where the main wires come off the ignition coil. If you have a kill switch on a lanyard, check it. One fella said to replace it, or bypass it. That the whole motor drops out v. running rough tells me it is not likely individual cylinder not getting a spark. Also that the problem persists under load, which means lots of heat, it may be electrical. The experts tell me that failing electrical components, or connections are sensitive to heat. Thats ALL I know. |
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todicus
Senior Member Joined: July-10-2006 Location: Napa, Ca Status: Offline Points: 493 |
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Found out the problem on my 95 GT-40 EFI. THe wire that has the in-line fuse which goes to to battery was corroded. replaced it and everything works great. Should of checked that first before I replaced all the electrical components I could find through SKIDIM. But at least I know which parts are new and should not be an issue for the future.
Thank you to all the people who are on this forum to help out before dumping a fortune at the dealer. |
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LakeBoy
Gold Member Joined: July-19-2006 Location: Roseville, CA Status: Offline Points: 709 |
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todicus:
Nice job! I took 32 passes at the course this weekend and I am shredded, hands, especially. It is nice to be back on the water. Where is that fuse anyway? By the way, I talked to the West Coast Nautique distributor, and he says many of the 90's boats are notorious for electrical problems. He says most of them are connection and corrosion related. He said some years they had to replace the whole harness due to poor connections. It would have been nice if my local dealer had kindly pointed me (and you) in that direction. |
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todicus
Senior Member Joined: July-10-2006 Location: Napa, Ca Status: Offline Points: 493 |
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The in-line fuse is near the battery, actually located in the battery compartment.
Now that I'm back on the water, life is great. Sounds like your gt40 is providing you with the appropriate horsepower to inflict that good kind of "body aches" that only slalom skiing can provide. |
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