Diagnosing no start GT40

Hi Gary, Yeah, that isn't a direction I want to go.

I like the Deutsche connector(s) over OEM. Do you have experience with them? I don't just read good things.

I've done lots of wiring including several hot rods, boats, RV and an array of miscellaneous projects. I try to read, learn (or watch videos) and apply. Lately, I use quality non-insulated crimp connectors and specialty crimpers. Like these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDFEVQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with Ancor adhesive shrink tubing to seal the butt connections.

BTW - this is the self sealing tape I mentioned. I've never actually used it. Note, I am not underwriting its use, but seems like could be useful in a pinch, at least short term, to protect a non-sealed and previously unmolested connection.
https://www.amazon.com/F4-Tape/dp/B01IVNQ7RC

Thank you,

Doug

Pete - not sure I understand the baggy reference, but all good. Appreciate everyone's input.

It appears that off-topic comments are fine around here...
I used to have a Ski Tique very similar to your '77! Same color scheme and maybe same year (definitely within 2 years). I looked high and low on the internet to see if I could find it again. I never did. I sold it around 1998, when I bought a '96 SN Closed bow up in the Delta (SF Bay Area). I had done a Holley 2 bbl throttle body fuel injection install on the Tique and a new prop and prop shaft. The interior was super clean, but the top deck had some scuffing and I never re-gel coated.
It ran like the clappers with the fuel injection setup! Was a very fun boat and my first of 4 correct crafts.
Does that sound like a boat anyone here reported owning?

Cheers,

Doug

Hi All,
I'm sure you are on the edge of your seat.   

The short version... SUCCESS!

The Hallmark Movie channel version:

I made a trip out to the boat and installed my new Deutsche connector. All of the high current / 10 gauge wires had already been cut out of this connector. I know the previous owner re-wired some of the boat adding heavy gauge wiring and a continuous duty solenoid up at the helm to support AUX "on" and IGN "on".

Not sure of the history of removing those wires.

That said, it made today's job easier.

Pictures of the Deutsche connector in place.
Connector photos - in situ
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0sGVfZ2vSDVB9

And the Amazon listing: ASIN B00D3S3O5O
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D3S3O5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hardest part of the job was stripping back the on-engine connector to give enough loose wire to insert the wire and pin in to the connector. If I had known this process, I'd have put the male pins (with the female housing) on the engine side, vs. the other. Those male pins aren't inserted in to the housing as far as the female pins with the male housing.

I tested a few times and all worked well. And checked that I was reliably getting 12V+ at the purple wire once I hit the start button a second time.

I also replaced both EEC and Fuel Pump relays with new and screwed them back in to the OEM location (someone else had zip-tied).

Thanks again for the support from this generous community!

Next:
I'm going to create some new entries in to this forum about things I've done to keep my boat in top condition as a reference for someone else.
Look out for threads on:
The $900 boat barn   

Preview:
Boat Barn
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0sJ8GySPGfuueP
and
solar charging and 12V timed circulation fan.

Happy Holidays!

Doug

Glad it's fixed Doug

I guess some things to get from this thread are

The Pro Boss GT-40 service manual and it's references to a 10 pin connector including the drawing of the connector showing it as round are wrong.

It's really a rectangular 8 pin connector as shown in the 1995-2001 owners manual

Both manuals are in the reference section.

Not too often does a thread stay on topic, you never know where it will veer off to but in the end you'll usually get your issue resolved

I'll log this one in the GT-40 Diagnosis thread.

DW SD wrote: I like the post - mortem. One more thing: If no 12V+ is found on the EEC relay trigger circuit terminal #85 - take a look at the 10 way connector .

Or maybe look at the 8 pin engine connector since we've already figured out the 10 pin doesn't exist

KENO wrote: DW SD wrote: I like the post - mortem. One more thing: If no 12V+ is found on the EEC relay trigger circuit terminal #85 - take a look at the 10 way connector . Or maybe look at the 8 pin engine connector since we've already figured out the 10 pin doesn't exist

thank you!
It could have been much worse, for sure. When I began tracing the boat-side of the connector, I stripped back the corrugated wire loom and everything looked as PCM and CC intended. That gave me further confidence we were in the right spot.

I didn't want to have to dig deeper.

I'm still curious where that diode is. Maybe near the ignition switch? You'd think it'd be somewhere easy to replace...

Happy Holidays all!
Doug

Hi All,
I’ve run the boat twice since the repair.
It has operated and started flawlessly. Thanks to you all, I think we identified and solved the problem.

Last time out my new rule 800R pump’s auto feature failed. It was only 4 months old.

On the water I checked for 12V on the auto circuit that feeds the auto circuit and it was present. (I keep a small digital volt meter in a waterproof toolkit in the boat).
And the pump worked perfectly when I used the manual mode with the dash switch.

I properly installed using tinned,solid butt connectors and adhesive lines shrink tubing.

So I contacted Rule and showed the Amazon proof of purchase.
They are sending a new one out.
I’ve decided to use another Deutsche connector to make removal if the new one fails easier.
I figure if replacement is easier it won’t fail again :-)

With the boat it is always something it seems!

Doug