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Ticking from my GT40 @ GL

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rleinen79 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rleinen79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Ticking from my GT40 @ GL
    Posted: July-19-2006 at 9:46pm
79, p/allen, Keith, Alan, and whoever else.....took my boat to the marina and they called and said my #2 cylinder is way down (35) on compression. Lifters are good, rocker arms are good. I trust these guys a lot, as they have done good work for me in the past, but they're saying the inside of the cylinder wall is pretty scored. I haven't had a chance to go look at it yet, but they said they talked to PCM, and there is a service bulletin out describing pretty much what is happening to mine....they call it "shrunken piston". The marina says they won't know what's going on exactly until they tear off the heads. They also said worst case will be $2500 to $3000 for a rebuild, but, again, they haven't got it all apart yet.....just ruled out the simple things. Does this sound right to you guys? Or do you think I'm getting jerked around? I'm probably going to bite the bullet and take it to MCC for a second opinion. About 75 miles away, but probably worth it.


For those of you not at GL, my 97 SNOB with the gt40 suddenly developed a tick at idle that I, and pretty much everyone who listened to it thought that it was a lifter.

Thanks...
Rob   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2006 at 10:07pm
Wouldn't his boat smoke if a piston was "shrunken"? And would it idle that smoothly?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p/allen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2006 at 10:59pm
Sorry to hear of your misfortune to cap off a wonderful weekend. Why would the piston be ticking . I also would think it would smoke.Maybe you have a stuck or bent valve that would make aticking noise, lower youre compression and not smoke.I'm not an exspert but that is my thinking. Keep us posted good luck . If their is a service bulletin out , is there a recall?

Pat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stang72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2006 at 11:07pm
Rob...sorry to hear the news. I think I would get a second opinion just to make sure . MCC is going to have a mechcanic that will know that engine.
If your marina mechcanic is someone you trust ...thats cool, but a second opinion is not going to hurt!

Hope it turns out much less than worse case!
stang



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2006 at 12:03am
Rob,
What a bummer...I think Id at least talk to another CC dealer to find out more info?
Good Luck and keep us posted...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2006 at 12:40am
Rob's boat runs very smoothly, and idles quite nicely. Without the ticking, you'd never think anything was wrong. I'd hate for these guys to pull a head if something could be adjusted under the valve cover alone. As a side note- is it possible to pull a head without removing the intake manifold? Pardon my ignorance since pulling heads is about where I start to get out of my league.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2006 at 1:50am
If your valve is not seating properly, the compression will not be normal. For example, on my Solid Lifter Cam, if the lash is not properly set the compression is less than 80 or about 1/2 that of normal.

Ticking lifter and low compression in one cylinder gives the first impression of a bent pushrod or valve and not a rebuild, but I'm just guessing since I'm not in the boat. Remove the valve cover, loosen the rocker and pull the pushrod out...takes about 10 minutes.

That rebuild price seems high to me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AWhite70 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2006 at 8:28am
When I bought my '79 it ran great and had a tick at idle. I thought it was a lifter. Ended up being a scuffed cylinder (several were scuffed but the tick was coming from one).

When a cylinder scuffs frequently the piston skirt will collapse slightly creating more clearance with the bore. Then when the cylinder fires the piston can rock back and forth and slap against the bore creating the ticking sound.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2006 at 9:17am
I would try disconnecting the spark plug wire to that cylinder and the noise should change pitch or go away all together. Try the other cylinders as well one at a time incase it's not the #2. If the noise does go away or change pitch/tone then it could be a piston issue. If you still hear the noise then it's most likely in the valve train somewhere and not a piston.

By removing the spark it should lessen the forces against the piston so that it does not bang or flop around inside of the cylinder and is just floating so to say.

Doesn't sound good either way keep your fingers crossed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2006 at 9:25am
$3000? What are they going to do? blueprint and balance it? I would get that cylinder TDC and check and see if the valves are out of adjustment. Maybe a bad lifter also. How do they know the walls are in bad shape with the heads on?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2006 at 9:56am
Originally posted by Tim D Tim D wrote:

How do they know the walls are in bad shape with the heads on?



you remove a spark plug and run a scope through the hole to see. I would say he picked a pretty good mechanic. He seems to have the right tools for the job.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2006 at 11:03am
This problem is odd, Rob and I were making a run across the lake and we ran full trottle for about ten seconds then backed down.   We rafted at the cove for a while and then the ticking started next time he started the boat up. I though a lifter collapsed cause it sounded like it was coming from the top end of the engine.

There was absolutely no engine noise before that run and I'm thinking how could you score a cylinder in that short of time unless there was an oiling problem which doesn't seem to be the case. He's got good oil pressure and the oil is clean and full. Just sounds to me that for that major damage to show up that there should be a failure of some sort evident.

I guess it's in a mechanics hands now, If I were that close to MWCC I'd get it to them for a second opinion. Probably have to pull a valve cover and then a head and see whats going on.

Keep us posted Rob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AWhite70 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2006 at 4:00pm
Running WOT you get the highest piston temperatures, highest piston speeds, and most thermal expansion. You also have a lot of water flow through the block since your waterpump is spinning fast as well. Piston scuffing is usually caused when something gets too hot. That can be caused by lack oil, running lean, insufficient water flow, etc.

A WOT run will bring all of these items to the surface faster than any other condition.

I scuffed 2 cylinders in my '79 during a WOT run a couple summers ago. The engine had 25hrs on it after a rebuild. Turns out the machine shop set the piston to bore clearance to automotive specs, which is too tight for a marine engine. There was no failure event, she just started ticking.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ultrahots Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2006 at 9:58pm
79 is DEAD on.Start it and pull the wire off the plug.If it is piston slap the noise will virtually vanish.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2006 at 8:00am
Originally posted by AWhite70 AWhite70 wrote:

Running WOT you get the highest piston temperatures, highest piston speeds, and most thermal expansion. You also have a lot of water flow through the block since your waterpump is spinning fast as well. Piston scuffing is usually caused when something gets too hot. That can be caused by lack oil, running lean, insufficient water flow, etc.

A WOT run will bring all of these items to the surface faster than any other condition.

.


I agree but I hope they can diagnose the cause before they just go ahead and fix it. Rob's motor sounded fine before that and it was a very short bust of WOT cause of the chop. If it went bad that fast there is something else wrong that caused it. I guess it's possible that he picked up some weeds and ran it hot for a short while cause the lake did have a bunch of weeds in the shallows but he never mentioned anything like that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2006 at 8:35am
rob just pull the plug wires one at a time and see if it changes tone, if it doesn't then that's good because it will be in the valve train and that is an easy fix or should I say less expensive quicker to fix item.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rleinen79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2006 at 3:58pm
OK guys....bad news. I went to the marina last night and tried the spark plug removal as 79 suggested. The noise got a lot softer with the plug removed. They showed me the extent of the scoring on the piston wall through the scope, and said they would put money on it being a piston. I called MCC today and they said it sounded like a piston to them, so I told the marina to go ahead and take off the head to see how bad it was. I went back today at lunch to see how bad it was, and I couldn't believe my eyes. Pretty deep scoring at the 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock positions, as well as a valve that looks pretty charred. I took pics of both, but the ones of the cylinder wall didn't turn out (cell phone pics).



As you can see.....not good. There were also metal shavings in the exhaust valve, probably from the piston. Not the news I was looking for after a great weekend at GL.

I did talk to MCC again later in the day, and it sounds like they are going to go to bat for me with PCM, since this is a known problem. They said not to hold my breath, but they'll see what they can do. Hopefully, they'll help out a little, otherwise I'm probably done until spring. Wish me luck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rleinen79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2006 at 4:07pm
Great huh?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2006 at 4:17pm
That sucks SO MUCH. I am right there with you on this one. On the positive side, you'll have a boat with a new (or basically new) engine. I would never imagine an engine could run so smoothly with that much damage.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2006 at 6:27pm
If PCM honors a 10 year old engine, I'm a PCM customer for life! That would be fantastic. Now you've got me worried. I'd be beside myself now if it were my rig.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rleinen79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2006 at 6:29pm
Originally posted by AWhite70 AWhite70 wrote:



When a cylinder scuffs frequently the piston skirt will collapse slightly creating more clearance with the bore. Then when the cylinder fires the piston can rock back and forth and slap against the bore creating the ticking sound.



This is EXACTLY how the marina explained it to me.....good call Awhite70.

At least I didn't do anything bad to cause this. I would feel worse if I had neglected it, but the marina and MCC both said it was "bad luck". The boat only has 277.3 hours on it. That's why I'm hoping PCM may step up to the plate...especially since they know of the problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2006 at 1:17am
Rob politely pitch a bitch and work towards a short block worst case, get the labor payed for and angle 1/2 on parts if you have to give some. A 10yr warrenty?????????, the low hours is your friend and leverage, you need a valve job and block work so.... a long block is what you realy need. Build them up to it, (warrenty) don't let them get to far into taking it apart more, before the PCM rep gives the ok on funds!!!! otherwise your getting sucked in and getting drained of funds. You have some decent help just let them do the talking and back them up when the time comes.

Good luck cross your fingers, bitch with a smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rleinen79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2006 at 12:20pm
Hey guys.....
PCM isn't really willing to help me out too much (no big surprise there). Tom from MCC (the guy who was at GL) has been terrific to work with on the phone, and he told me to get the boat to them and they'll try to give me the best deal possible on the labor and parts. He also said PCM said to "resleeve" that cylinder. That seems to me to be more of a band-aid than a fix. What if 10 hours down the road another piston lets go? What do you guys think?

Rob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2006 at 10:57pm
re-sleving.....????? usually that's with an aluminum block with steel liners in each cyl, isn't yours a cast-iron block????........... maybe honed out or machined .010" over and new oversized rings if bearing clearance was fine for that cyl.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-27-2006 at 3:28pm
I agree with your thought process, Rob. One cylinder down today, maybe two next week. I bought a rebuilt engine for mine with a warranty. I had four bad pistons. I only had 567 hours on my original '86, 351. Now, I'm in great shape, $5,500 installed with lots of replacement parts.

Good luck,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-27-2006 at 4:00pm
Rob, Safe to assume this is a Multiport FI engine?

If so, if one slug grew enough to score and fail, and they rebuild or replace a shortblock, I bet it will happen again if they just button it up and nobody investigates why that jug went lean and got too hot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rleinen79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2006 at 4:04pm
Thanks guys....I've think I've decided to bite the bullet and just go for the long block. I found one for $3550 plus $200 shipping. Marina wants $700 +\- in labor, so with tax, I'm at $4800 +\- out the door. Unfortunately, having just paid for our 250 person wedding, my wife and I don't have that money to plunk down right now. So, this season will be cut sadly short, and we'll hope to be back in full swing in the spring with no worries. Everyone says the gt40s are bulletproof, so maybe the next one will be.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p/allen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2006 at 11:34pm
Sorry to hear of your early ending but hopefully you have good friends that can take you for a pull around the lake. Good luck

Pat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2006 at 11:42pm
This underlines a need for another smaller CC gathering so we can get Rob out skiing this summer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2006 at 12:02am
Question for those more mechanical than I. Rob's motor is still running. If he has already decided to replace it, what does he have to lose by just using the boat till it breaks? Will it break, or will the bad cylinder just get worse? Does the pinging cylinder present any physical danger to Rob or his passengers? I don't know. Just a thought. BKH
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