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No Power Ski Nautique 1993

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keokimelen View Drop Down
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    Posted: February-05-2018 at 11:56pm
I owned boat for 5 years. Recently, turn key on ignition and no power to panel or ignition. Starter will not turn-over..

Trouble shooting: connected jumper cable from battery to solenoid and the lights on panel came on and starter started when I turn ignition key. When jumper cable remove, no power on front panel or ignition key.
I checked the the circuit 50 amp and 12.5 breaker and they are not pop out, very stiff button.

I measured voltage on ignition switch and measure about 7-4 volts coming from battery. I am not sure what voltage I should be reading?

I replaced ignition switch and no change. I had this problem one time last year and replaced battery and it seem to have fix the problem and then this occurred..

Any help would be appreciated.
Keoki
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2018 at 12:17am
You could measure volts at each connection point, when trying to start (large amp draw will magnify the problem).

Sounds like a battery terminal/cable problem to me but you should be able to measure where it is located.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2018 at 10:21am
Tim turned me on to this site. If you need battery cables they will make custom length and install whatever ends you want on both sides.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2018 at 10:36am
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Tim turned me on. If you need he will make length and install whatever end you want on both sides.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote keokimelen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2018 at 2:15pm
Not looking to buy yet. I need help troubleshooting problem.
Keoki
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2018 at 2:27pm
4-7v at the ign switch is insufficient. The implication is that you either have a bad battery or a significant voltage drop between the battery and the dash switch (you should see 12v). Break out the multimeter and see where the drop is occurring. Some useful pictorial wiring diagrams have been posted to assist you- a quick search will reveal them.

If cleaning terminals does not improve the situation, all types of wiring can be purchased at the link above.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote keokimelen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2018 at 2:31pm
Great advise, this gives better direction where to start.
Keoki
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rebel skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2018 at 2:50pm
Be sure and measure at the wire aft of the terminal on the battery when you turn the key. Those lead bolt on terminals clamps are a temporary fix that will cause a good voltage drop even with a strong battery.
Hotty Toddy lets go skiing!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2018 at 3:28pm
Originally posted by keokimelen keokimelen wrote:

Great advise, this gives better direction where to start.

Do you have one of these?

terminal and post cleaner


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote keokimelen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2018 at 6:23pm
Yes
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2018 at 7:06pm
George,
You mentioned the 7.4 volts at the ignition switch but what do you get directly on the battery? Is the battery is good condition, fully charged and NOT a deep cycle?

Yes, as mentioned, you need to get the VOM out and get more voltage readings.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote keokimelen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2018 at 8:40pm
The battery is good. I bought in 2017. I am running through a A/B switch. One batt for starting & other deep cycle. I try both batt with same negative results. I will start measuring voltage at switch first . Maybe the switch.?

I keep a trickle charger on both.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2018 at 9:09pm
Originally posted by keokimelen keokimelen wrote:



I keep a trickle charger on both.

Depending on the type of "trickle charger", they can burn up batteries!!!!
Again, start with the voltage directly on the batteries.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2018 at 9:46pm
hW —-

Moderator abuse! Wait...that was funny. Never mind.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote keokimelen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-07-2018 at 12:12am
i checked both batteries to switch and they read 12v. I remove cables from starting battery and clean terminals . The voltage was 12v on the battery.

Someone mention earlier they had attach wiring diagrams?

The wire at ignition switch, where is it coming from, voltage regulator?

Thanks,
Keoki
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-07-2018 at 8:11am
What he really said was that you could search for the wiring diagram since you didn't exactly tell what your engine setup is.

Since you mention a 12.5 amp and a 50 amp breaker, I guess it could be assumed it's a Pro Tec ignition system and it's most likely a Ford.

It's a little tough to figure out what you did with the jumper cable in your first post. Did you jumper from one of your installed batteries to the solenoid and then everything worked?

If that's the case you already know where your problem is.

It's either in your positive battery cable, bad connections at the battery or solenoid, or selector switch, or the battery selector switch.itself is bad

Why don't you jumper around the switch or remove it and hook the cables together and see what happens.?

Here's a 351 Pro Tec wiring diagram

The wire that supplies the ignition switch comes from the big terminal on the solenoid that the supply from the battery hooks to thru your selector switch so low voltage to the solenoid also means low voltage to the ignition switch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-07-2018 at 8:18am
If the diagram above is a little small follow this link to the 1993 PCM manual in the reference section and you can find the diagram in the back of the manual PCM manual
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