83 New Stringers & Floor

Yes, block it. I found out the hull does change shape when you pull the stringers, even pulling them one at a time.   My boat rides even with driver only now as a result.   it does pitch left with a spotter.   Weight distribution in mine is now opposite of what it was new.      

8122pbrainard wrote: John, The benefit of leaving it on the trailer is the wishbone design of the trailer bunks is a great method of supporting a stringer less hull. Take the wheels off the trailer and see if that will lower the hull enough for you.

I call BS on this one - mustang probably, 2gen SN maybe - 2001 hull too flat, too much distance to the hull sides and not super duper thick hull. If you were going to leave it on the trailer while replacing stringers I would block the stern/sides and keel towards the front at a minimum.   The wishbone trailer design is great as a trailer for a boat with stringers and with the weight of the drivetrain on the stringers but a flat bottom boat without stringers not so much.

MourningWood wrote: What did Correct Craft set the bare hull on while the boat was built?

You typically would not take the hull out of the mold until after the stringers are mounted

JoeinNY wrote: MourningWood wrote: What did Correct Craft set the bare hull on while the boat was built? You typically would not take the hull out of the mold until after the stringers are mounted

I get that.
My question remains.

And then they went wishbone dollies

Joe is right. The deck and keel won’t prevent deformation of a bare hull on a wishbone trailer. The spans are large and the layup isn’t thick. I saw deformation in the 1/4” range on an empty BFN... I bet the flat bottom 2001 would be worse.

Don't be confused...

The experts (myself excluded) have weighed in....

Best if you take that flimsy-ass Nautique off the trailer and properly support it.

Who's Pete?

Who's on Third...

Painting the deck and inside of hull instead of carpet?

Beg4 - If you add a layer of glass to your existing ply floor, it will probably outlast your ownership (assuming it isn't rotted).

Would save a bunch of hrs & $

Suggestions on easy/someway to remove the wood on transom under the lift eyelet? I used a 30 grit pad that almost went through back of boat ,but didn't do much to the old plywood....

you could use a power -hand held wood planer.   

I believe the wood is tabbed in with one layer of chop strand, should be able to cut that off with grinder and then peal it off from leading edge.   Don't pry too hard as to cause cracking on the deck above it though.

I said in other post that these boats were cheaply built, in the day, bayliner quality with premium price.   

Try measuring some stuff and you will see that they boat isn't symmetrical at all.   Gunnels on either side are different widths . I made template of one side to have seadeck pads made and flipped the template to other side and it wasn't even close.    My engine box isn't symmetrical either.   look at the facets at the rear of your engine box and you will see they are different on each side.
Drilled lag bolts into a wood stringer and didn't even try to seal them. Cut holes in wood stringers and didn't seal. on and on.   When I was a kid we believed the CC to be a far superior built boat, well they were not.    

I have have good luck using an oscillating tool to shave off layers, might work on the rotted ply.