Starter

jterr wrote: Someone tell me how to connect one of the remote 2 clip starter buttons to my 83 351 that I pulled out of boat. 1 clip on the starter side of solenoid ????

John,
I think this is the problem. You need to feed 12 volts to the solenoid coil so connect the button switch to ether the battery + or the solenoid battery +.terminal Also, make sure the solenoid is grounded.

jterr wrote: Anyone??

Just Pete

Do what he said and it should work

I hope you weren't up all night sitting by the computer holding your breath waiting for an answer

This should help. Second illustration shows whats going on inside.

Taking starter out to have checked as it wouldn't do anything hook straight to battery. I t looks pretty bad so might as well get it checked.

8122pbrainard wrote: jterr wrote: Taking starter out to have checked as it wouldn't do anything hook straight to battery. I t looks pretty bad so might as well get it checked. John, Where will you be taking the starter? Hopefully an "auto electric" shop that repairs them and not the auto supply that simply tests them and then sells you a new one!!! The typical repair involves cleaning up the commutator, brushes and bushings. Also, if new is needed say due to an open in the armature, be aware of the rotation with you RR engine.

Roger that,
I worked at a "parts house" last place I would go. Actually the guy I'm taking to it is a CC SN owner and knows all about the marine starters.

jterr wrote: Got starter back (did fine at shop), hooked up as above only get a click in the solenoid. I guess this bad now???

John,
If it worked at the shop, it should work on the engine. What did they find? Did they open it up? Commutator cleaned up? New brushes? I think you had better get the VOM out and see if the starter is getting the volts. Yes, the start relay clicks but are the contacts getting the volts through the relay??

John,
You want to check for 12 volts going into the relay and then out to the starter. Ground your black probe on the VOM, use the red to confirm the 12 at the big stud where the cable from the battery is connected, press the remote started button to energize the relay coil and then with the red probe again check for 12 at the big stud that the cable to the starter is connected to.

When checking for voltage, you should also note the voltage drop across the relay. If there's any drop, then the contacts in the relay are bad.

Do you have a good ground to the starter via the engine block?

jterr wrote: It might be the ground as I had to hold it to block with a pair of vice grips. maybe use my jumper cables to connect to motor. thanks

John,
To run the compression check on your engine, you want it to crank decently with the starter. To do that, you want to get decent voltage and amps to the starter. I recommend cleaning up all your electric connections to and from the starter including the area where the starter is grounded to the block. Any resistance caused by bad connections will lower the volts to the starter so it will not perform like it should. Jumper cables are also not the greatest due to the relatively small area of the clamp teeth the current needs to get through.

Also, what's the condition of the battery you're using?

Since Ford had different starters and solenoids (which had different wiring schemes) as time went on, how about a picture of your starter and another of the solenoid, so it's known what you're dealing with? Maybe yours was replaced at some time in the past

On a different note, did you ever figure out how to look at the pictures that were affected by Photobucket?

KENO wrote: Since Ford had different starters and solenoids (which had different wiring schemes) as time went on, how about a picture of your starter and another of the solenoid, so it's known what you're dealing with? Maybe yours was replaced at some time in the past Soon as the rain quits will get some.. On a different note, did you ever figure out how to look at the pictures that were affected by Photobucket?

Nope

8122pbrainard wrote: John, When checking for voltage, you should also note the voltage drop across the relay. If there's any drop, then the contacts in the relay are bad.

jterr wrote: Update Replaced solenoid and cleaned cables connections and all is good,works fine..

Did you check the relay first? What was the problem? Relay or cable connections?

8122pbrainard wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: John, When checking for voltage, you should also note the voltage drop across the relay. If there's any drop, then the contacts in the relay are bad. jterr wrote: Update Replaced solenoid and cleaned cables connections and all is good,works fine.. Did you check the relay first? What was the problem? Relay or cable connections?

So in other words Pete I don't think John cares what it was, He fixed the problem

Maybe you should say something like "Good job John", but don't bother, I just said it.

Roger that
What kind of oil do I put in the cylinders to check compression?

jterr wrote: Roger that What kind of oil do I put in the cylinders to check compression?

You should start by doing some reading about performing a compression check. Plenty of how to's out there.

Ideally you'd be doing this on a warm engine, (that won't be your case)

Doing it cold will give different results but at least you can compare numbers between cylinders for consistency

You don't use any oil when doing the initial testing, you'd only use oil in a cylinder if it's low on compression to see if it raises the compression in that cylinder.

Other things to remember............throttle and choke fully open and ignition disabled.

In your case maybe the carburetor is removed, that's OK.

For the ignition just take away power to the coil

Like I mentioned earlier do some reading first

And it would be regular engine oil if you need to use some.

Thanks all,
I will wait till this afternoon should be in the 80's.